CASE 680H Cranks but thats it...

Bill Smith · Dec 4, 2015

i would try post 58

OVERTORQUED · Dec 4, 2015

Tinkerer said:
Cut it apart ??? Hmmmmm.
There are a lot of online vendors that sell new cartridges for your injector pump. You need Case cartridge # 278866A1. The copper washer and gasket are sold separately. About $40.00 for everything.

Was going to get a new one anyway -not using it like that but had to see if that made a difference.

OVERTORQUED · Dec 4, 2015

thepumpguysc said:
I NEVER liked running an "electric" pump thru the manual pump.. without taking the valves out of the manual pump 1st..
What you could do is.. plumb the electric pump DIRECTLY into the inlet of the injection pump.. you'll have to change the fitting on the inj. pump probably to fit the electric pump.. that would by-pass any air getting into the inj. pump from any fittings or hand primer..
Just a straight in, from a bucket of fuel.. and you could run your return back in the same bucket.. by-passing all filters and restrictions..

That's exactly how it is right now.

thepumpguysc · Dec 4, 2015

HHMMM??
Don't make me come down there.. LOL
Don't feel like a fish outta water.. I got 1 in the shop doing the same damn thing.. its a military air compressor.. they ordered a NEW pump and tried to install it on a Duetz.. if any one knows anything about a duetz engine.. you KNOW they don't have timing marks.. I reset the timing.. it will start and shut off.. WTH??
I plumbed it straight in and straight out, by-passing all the govt BS.. all 3 shut downs.. still shut down after starting.!!
I pulled the side cover again and held the rack with my hand after it started.. it stayed running and I could control it with the throttle.. WTH ???
Come to find out.. they ordered a pump by the engine model.. NOT BY the PUMP #.. Bosch had NO IDEA it was an air compressor application.. and therefor the governor was NOT set-up for THAT application..
I KNOW it doesn't apply to your particular problem.. I just wanted you to know.. stuff happens.. even to me..

OVERTORQUED · Dec 4, 2015

thepumpguysc said:
HHMMM??
Don't make me come down there.. LOL
Don't feel like a fish outta water.. I got 1 in the shop doing the same damn thing.. its a military air compressor.. they ordered a NEW pump and tried to install it on a Duetz.. if any one knows anything about a duetz engine.. you KNOW they don't have timing marks.. I reset the timing.. it will start and shut off.. WTH??
I plumbed it straight in and straight out, by-passing all the govt BS.. all 3 shut downs.. still shut down after starting.!!
I pulled the side cover again and held the rack with my hand after it started.. it stayed running and I could control it with the throttle.. WTH ???
Come to find out.. they ordered a pump by the engine model.. NOT BY the PUMP #.. Bosch had NO IDEA it was an air compressor application.. and therefor the governor was NOT set-up for THAT application..
I KNOW it doesn't apply to your particular problem.. I just wanted you to know.. stuff happens.. even to me..

Right on...everyone could write a book and they would all be darn interesting. I did order new primer pump and seals today. They be in on Monday. Actually got some more work on some other tractors out of this whole mess, so not complaining. Learned a lot too!

OVERTORQUED · Dec 9, 2015

Picking up parts today... This is GOING to work.

OVERTORQUED · Dec 9, 2015

Every foul word you could possibly think of and then some.:Banghead think it's got me just about whooped. It's been fun.

Blueboy · Dec 9, 2015

Come on dude were

4U

Blueboy · Dec 10, 2015

Did you get it running yet?
If not can you try this suggestion, "bite the bullet and call a Case tractor mechanic."
I don't know these newer machines but is there a pressure switch somewhere, or something like it not allowing it to stay running?

thepumpguysc · Dec 10, 2015

From the looks of the background in the picture.. it looks like someplace I could work.. lol
Let me know when it stops raining.. I don't work in the rain.. or when its hot.. come to think about it.. I don't work when its cold out either.. lol
77* all this weekend in SC and no rain..

jimg984 · Dec 10, 2015

I haven't seen your post that you tried Thepumpguysc's #80 post bypassing those items he listed,,,,,,,,to me this boat has hole in it and not floating

OVERTORQUED · Dec 11, 2015

thepumpguysc said:
From the looks of the background in the picture.. it looks like someplace I could work.. lol
Let me know when it stops raining.. I don't work in the rain.. or when its hot.. come to think about it.. I don't work when its cold out either.. lol
77* all this weekend in SC and no rain..

Haha...too funny you are

lol. Not giving up...will keep ya posted. Have to wait again cause it's a sloppy mess out there again. Maybe it will just sink into the hill....one could only hope.

OVERTORQUED · Dec 11, 2015

jimg984 said:
I haven't seen your post that you tried Thepumpguysc's #80 post bypassing those items he listed,,,,,,,,to me this boat has hole in it and not floating

Yes did this one also. That's how its hooked up as of now.

OVERTORQUED · Dec 13, 2015

:BangheadMy thought for today...

Shimmy1 · Dec 13, 2015

This might be a long shot, but here goes. We had an issue with our 1080B a long time ago. It wasn't completely dying, but acted like it was running out of fuel. I don't remember exactly why I decided to pull one of the delivery valves out of the top of the pump, but after doing so I discovered some metal chunks in it that were holding the check open. After pulling all of them and cleaning them out, it ran good for a short time before happening again. This was around 15 yrs ago, I assumed the pump was bad. Pulled pump, sent it in to get worked over. Pump shop said pump was fine, we needed to change injector lines. Apparently, the steel lines can fatigue out inside and drop small chunks of metal down to mess up the delivery checks. If I remember correctly, there are copper washers under the check valves. As long as you don't turn the engine over with them out, I believe you can remove them, clean them, and reinstall. Make sure you keep them in order. Maybe pumpguy can verify the remove/install for the checks before you pull them. Just another option.

Edit: The delivery valves are the "fittings" that the injector lines connect to. You remove the little screws that hold the little locking blocks, and screw them out. I don't remember exactly how to disassemble them, but it wasn't very complicated.

OVERTORQUED · Dec 13, 2015

Shimmy1 said:
This might be a long shot, but here goes. We had an issue with our 1080B a long time ago. It wasn't completely dying, but acted like it was running out of fuel. I don't remember exactly why I decided to pull one of the delivery valves out of the top of the pump, but after doing so I discovered some metal chunks in it that were holding the check open. After pulling all of them and cleaning them out, it ran good for a short time before happening again. This was around 15 yrs ago, I assumed the pump was bad. Pulled pump, sent it in to get worked over. Pump shop said pump was fine, we needed to change injector lines. Apparently, the steel lines can fatigue out inside and drop small chunks of metal down to mess up the delivery checks. If I remember correctly, there are copper washers under the check valves. As long as you don't turn the engine over with them out, I believe you can remove them, clean them, and reinstall. Make sure you keep them in order. Maybe pumpguy can verify the remove/install for the checks before you pull them. Just another option.

Edit: The delivery valves are the "fittings" that the injector lines connect to. You remove the little screws that hold the little locking blocks, and screw them out. I don't remember exactly how to disassemble them, but it wasn't very complicated.

Right on... I'm willing to try anything else at this point. Thanks so much.

OVERTORQUED · Dec 16, 2015

OVERTORQUED · Dec 16, 2015

Just to add, since last post before it was running again, the starter took a complete dump this time and could not be rebuilt. Had to get a brand new one. Ouch!

I'm going to reference post #36. Pulled the side plate off ip and while it was running for a few short seconds as usual, noticed something. The fuel shut off was moving by itself (the little black shutoff thingies, don't know the exact name of them) and cutting off the fuel. I manually held the black thingies to the fully on position and tractor would start and run fine. To check to see if lever was loose on the shaft, I held lever to full on position, grabbed black shutoff thingies and was easily able to turn them from fully on to about quarter of the way off. Is there any way to adjust the play there so it doesn't automatically work its way over and shut off the fuel? So it wasn't stuck, but has a bunch of slop in it.

By the way, I so appreciate all the posts. Probably wouldn't have got it to this point without the help.

onemank6 · Dec 16, 2015

Overtorqued i dont know the first thing about this one as i have a old 580ck but i have been following your post and im glad to hear you have figured it out.These guys on here are awesome i have got tons of help from them on my old ck i was tickled to see you didnt give up and now you that you got her grab a beer and enjoy!!!! congrats!!!

Tinkerer · Dec 16, 2015

Nice to see you figured out that it was the shut-off. You should remove the injector pump , drain the oil out of it and send it to the pumpguysc. Sounds like it is over-due for a professional rebuild.

CASE 680H Cranks but thats it...

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