CASE 680H Cranks but thats it...

[OVERTORQUED]

Second that, and also, "fire" produces smoke, as in "the engine fired once, but wouldn't run". Of course if you're in a truckstop and wearing the appropriate footwear, then the distinctions cease.

One good battery should be plenty to start this engine up. Since you know the starter had problems maybe that is still weak? How cold is it there? even down to 40 it should fire up if it will turn over fast enough that the starter doesn't slow down significantly on each compression stroke.

With a slew of power sources like you have, is your starter warming up after 2 crankings of 15 seconds each? And do the batteries drain down faster than they should with those 2 15 second crankings? How about any battery cable terminals heating up? Others here have suggested a Nippon Denso gear reduction starter as an improvement, that looks like a conventional starter from here, but I could be wrong.

Yes it does significantly slow down on each stroke. going to pull the starter again and maybe look at solenoid. New battery too. Thanks for all the help you all. Much appreciated. Will pay closer attention to my terminology as well.

 

[Tinkerer]

Do you have access to a clamp-on ammeter ? The type that encircles the positive battery cable. I am suspect of the starter being the problem in regards to getting it started. A cold diesel will not start if the engine is not being turned fast enough with the starter. Has the battery cables been replaced with ones of insufficient size ? Check the ground cable where it is bolted to the frame for cleanliness and tightness.

 

[OVERTORQUED]

Do you have access to a clamp-on ammeter ? The type that encircles the positive battery cable. I am suspect of the starter being the problem in regards to getting it started. A cold diesel will not start if the engine is not being turned fast enough with the starter. Has the battery cables been replaced with ones of insufficient size ? Check the ground cable where it is bolted to the frame for cleanliness and tightness.

The negative cable seems smaller and I think it's bolted to the front of the hydraulic pump. Not sure if that's where it was supposed to be originally. Did pull selenoid off and cleaned it up, but didn't make a difference. Definitely not turning fast enough. When it did run for that short time, it ran good and didn't have a problem starting when we jumped it. Haven't been able to get it started since. County coming out this Wednesday and this thing has got to running to do clean up before then. Craziness.

 

[Shimmy1]

Pretty sure that this tractor is 24 V. You'll need 2 batteries hooked up properly.

 

[Tinkerer]

Pretty sure that this tractor is 24 V. You'll need 2 batteries hooked up properly.

24 volt; it certainly is. The negative cable connected to the hydraulic pump ??????. Shouldn't it be going to one of the starter bolts ? If it doesn't maybe there is a ground strap loose or missing somewhere. Be sure the batteries are connected in series and check out where #11A is bolted. -----> http://partstore.casece.com/us/parts-search.html#epc::mr67900ar444485

 

[Delmer]

Sorry, I didn't know it was 24V. I suppose three batteries, two chargers and a car could equal 24V, but that's not the way to go about it whether it's 24 or 12.

 

[El Hombre]

You would think Case would have a really large decal near the battery that it's a 24 volt system. I would never consider it's anything other than a 12 volt system; like 99.999% of the stuff out there. Next trick; it's a positive ground!

 

[Shimmy1]

Um........don't think so.

 

[thepumpguysc]

OT> whats the chances of snapping a pic of the inj. pump.. and a pic of the shut-off.. and what you think is/isn't the supply pump..??
OR get the #'s off the inj. pump..
The turning over problem "might be" the hydrolic pump trying to turn, dragging the engine down.. but then again.. hooking the bats up for 12v instead of 24v will do it too..

 

[OVERTORQUED]

OT> whats the chances of snapping a pic of the inj. pump.. and a pic of the shut-off.. and what you think is/isn't the supply pump..??
OR get the #'s off the inj. pump..
The turning over problem "might be" the hydrolic pump trying to turn, dragging the engine down.. but then again.. hooking the bats up for 12v instead of 24v will do it too..

Started raining here so pretty much at a standstill as its a slop hole now. Ran new cables and 2 new batteries yesterday. Started turned it over much faster, but thing still won't start. I will get some pics when I get there next. Thanks again for all the input.

 

[El Hombre]

Started raining here so pretty much at a standstill as its a slop hole now. Ran new cables and 2 new batteries yesterday. Started turned it over much faster, but thing still won't start. I will get some pics when I get there next. Thanks again for all the input.

Now that you have the electrical gremlins under control, try spraying the diesel fuel into the intake. Just a little bit to see if it wants to start and run. That way you can diagnose if it's fuel related; no attempt to start with the fuel spray and it's pretty sure you have some other mechanical issues still to fix. Have a functional fire extinguisher on hand, the air cleaner also acts like a flame arrestor, and we don't want you burning your hoe down...

 

[OVERTORQUED]

Hoe down thats no good.

 

[OVERTORQUED]

Think if you can zoom you can see numbers

 

[OVERTORQUED]

Talked with person who ran his thing before and he confirmed it ran with no problems before. New problem is the fuel tank has been water contaminated because cap was off. It started and ran today for a minute but thats about it. Back to square one. Biggest problem is guy said no brakes. See the treeline in pic? Thats a very busy 2 lane canyon road. Hoe is the only thing holding this thing.

 

[Tinkerer]

No brakes ? Give a us more detailed information what that means. Are they not functioning or they are mechanically disabled. Only two things will cause absolutely no response when you depress one of the treadle valves on your 680. The linkage to both brakes have a major problem or due to a lack of air pressure someone has installed the cage bolts in the brake chambers and have released the brakes. Your 680 has a basic air brake system similar to any truck and are simple to repair.

 

[thepumpguysc]

Good pics.. I don't even have to get on the Bosch website to diagnose this one..
You see the fitting on the right side of the pic..?? it looks like its blocked off with a plug..
Loosen the plug and pump the hand primer.. its the knob in front of the side cover.. unscrew it and pump up & down till the air comes out.. and all you get is fuel..
Next. loosen the lines AT THE INJECTORS a few turns each.. spin the engine over till fuel squirts out and retighten..
If you want to see if the feed pump is working, leave the plug out and spin the engine.. it should pulse fuel w/every rotation of the pump..
IF you want to see if the shut-off is working.. remove the side cover 2-10mm bolts and see if the control rack is moving when you operate the shut-off..
OR remove the cap infront of the inj. pump and feel it moving w/ your finger..
Personally, I would start w/ the rack movement.. cuz you can have all the fuel you need, but if the rack is stuck in the shut-off position, it will NEVER start..
Good luck and keep us informed.. Happy Turkey Day..

 

[Bill Smith]

Speaking about batteries . Some the equipment the Brits made back in the 60s and 70s were positive ground mmmmmmmmmmm .

 

[Blueboy]

Positive ground? See if the clock is running backwards.

 

[OVERTORQUED]

Positive ground? See if the clock is running backwards.

I dont think its a grey market import.

 

[OVERTORQUED]

Pumping all this bad fuel out right now...then we see what happens.