CASE 680H Cranks but thats it...

[Tinkerer]

Please get the brakes working before someone gets injured or killed. Roll the backhoe bucket all the way out and drop the boom to stop and or hold the machine from moving.

 

[OVERTORQUED]

Please get the brakes working before someone gets injured or killed. Roll the backhoe bucket all the way out and drop the boom to stop and or hold the machine from moving.

That thing is not going anywhere til the brakes are fixed, for sure.

 

[awful knawful]

I ran a 680 like that. Was a VG machine. Lots of power for pushing snow, digging and would road in 4th with a full bucket up some steep hills! It was a beast!!

 

[johndeere7530]

This always nice when ya get them fixed.

 

[OVERTORQUED]

Hi all, back at it again. Happy 2016! Took a look at the brakes today and it seems one of the valves on the brake pedals is frozen. Must be the problem i would imagine...

 

[Tinkerer]

Hi all, back at it again. Happy 2016! Took a look at the brakes today and it seems one of the valves on the brake pedals is frozen. Must be the problem i would imagine...

I dunno Overtorqued. Only if the metal arm on the pedals is in position to operate both pedals at the same time. Swing it over to enable individual brake operation and see if one or both pedals are functioning. Does the system have air pressure built up ??

 

[OVERTORQUED]

I dunno Overtorqued. Only if the metal arm on the pedals is in position to operate both pedals at the same time. Swing it over to enable individual brake operation and see if one or both pedals are functioning. Does the system have air pressure built up ??

Individual operation, only one side depressed. Pulled the whole valve unit out and it was in two pieces! Case was busted and the one valve was definitely frozen in the bore. That part is of course obsolete but I think I located one on eBay to the tune of 400 some bucks! These old tractors really bend ya over on the parts, but it's still worth it.

 

[Tinkerer]

I don't know what you are looking at for $400.00. The treadle valves are a basic Bendix E3 or one of many rebuilt and rebranded ones like this one for $15.00 plus shipping.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MIDLAND-KN2...ash=item4623706742:g:KlAAAOSwirZTwspr&vxp=mtr
Or a new one like this. -----> http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...C0.H0.XBendix+e3.TRS0&_nkw=Bendix+e3&_sacat=0

You may want to read this thread everything in it pertains to your brake system. https://www.heavyequipmentforums.co...5-Case-680-E-Air-Brake-Trouble&highlight=680E

 

[OVERTORQUED]

I don't know what you are looking at for $400.00. The treadle valves are a basic Bendix E3 or one of many rebuilt and rebranded ones like this one for $15.00 plus shipping.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MIDLAND-KN2...ash=item4623706742:g:KlAAAOSwirZTwspr&vxp=mtr
Or a new one like this. -----> http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...C0.H0.XBendix+e3.TRS0&_nkw=Bendix+e3&_sacat=0

You may want to read this thread everything in it pertains to your brake system. https://www.heavyequipmentforums.co...5-Case-680-E-Air-Brake-Trouble&highlight=680E

Wow, I just went off the part number on Case site. Then went on to eBay from there. So glad you brought that to my attention!

 

[Tinkerer]

Glad I can help you Overtorqued.

 

[OVERTORQUED]

Just a little update... Found that treadle valve here local in San Jose at a place called A&B Friction Materials. Only 70.00. Going out to install it today and we should finally have some brakes! Rain has let up for awhile and maybe we can finally get some good work out of the old beast! Thanks again all for the help. I'll let ya know how it turns out.

 

[OVERTORQUED]

Please get the brakes working before someone gets injured or killed. Roll the backhoe bucket all the way out and drop the boom to stop and or hold the machine from moving.

I am happy to say the brakes are finally working! I love this site, you all are awesome! On to the next project!

 

[Tinkerer]

Thanks for the update.

 

[Shimmy1]

I am happy to say the brakes are finally working! I love this site, you all are awesome! On to the next project!

Have you checked the brake shoes to see what shape they are in? Chances are they're probably thin, should last awhile but when it's time to change them it'd be nice to have a set on the shelf, no? Just a thought, might take some time to source them. I'm trying to remember, but I don't think they are the same as truck shoes.

 

[OVERTORQUED]

Have you checked the brake shoes to see what shape they are in? Chances are they're probably thin, should last awhile but when it's time to change them it'd be nice to have a set on the shelf, no? Just a thought, might take some time to source them. I'm trying to remember, but I don't think they are the same as truck shoes.

That would be a good idea. Actually they look brand new. Not sure of what thickness is supposed to be when new, but they are definitely not thin at all.

 

[OVERTORQUED]

Have a new problem on this thing though. Should I start new thread or just keep going? The hydraulic fluid came out looking like milk- water contaminated pretty bad. How does one flush the whole system? Already drained it, so no going back now? Any input, as always, greatly appreciated.

 

[Shimmy1]

You have a few options. First one will take quite a bit of oil, and that's changing it several times until it cleans up. Second is quite a bit more difficult. That would entail flushing all lines and cylinders. Can be done, I helped my dad about 25 years ago do a 680E. Started by unhooking return line at the tank, started engine and let run just long enough until clean oil came out. Then proceeded to methodically unhook line by line at the cylinders and Dad would hold line in a pail and I would hold the control lever until clean oil came out. I don't suppose you have it parked with pads down, bucket dumped, and hoe stretched out, do you? That would have allowed you to have maximum amount of oil in the tank.

 

[Tinkerer]

I think it would be ok to keep sluggin away at your machine in this thread OVERTORQUED. It is your thread. You have a quite a job on your hands in regards to flushing the contaminated oil out of the hydraulic system. If you want your pump and cylinders to last a long time you HAVE to have clean oil in the system. I have done the flush on my 680, and when I was done the system was full of pure clean oil. Follow my instructions in this thread and you can't go wrong.
https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/showthread.php?14595-Quick-fluid-change-ques

Shimmy ; I didn't mean to sound like i am a know it all by posting this after you already addressed the issue. But I started searching 20 minutes ago for that old thread that i just posted a link to.

 

[OVERTORQUED]

You have a few options. First one will take quite a bit of oil, and that's changing it several times until it cleans up. Second is quite a bit more difficult. That would entail flushing all lines and cylinders. Can be done, I helped my dad about 25 years ago do a 680E. Started by unhooking return line at the tank, started engine and let run just long enough until clean oil came out. Then proceeded to methodically unhook line by line at the cylinders and Dad would hold line in a pail and I would hold the control lever until clean oil came out. I don't suppose you have it parked with pads down, bucket dumped, and hoe stretched out, do you? That would have allowed you to have maximum amount of oil in the tank.

Pretty clos to what ya said, yes?

 

[OVERTORQUED]

Going to follow your instructions. Doesn't really sound all that bad. Compared to everything else so far, should be fairly easy. .