Section for komatsu d20,21 and similar grey market dozers

[John25mm]

Just remember when pushing over a dead tree, that the top may snap and fall on you. I just heard of a friend of a friend that was doing this with a small dozer and the top snapped off and came down on him. He is now a paraplegic. I have resorted to cutting dead trees off about chest high, which leaves plenty of height on the stump to get good leverage with the blade when removing it.

Be safe out there.

Good point on the 'widow makers', they are called that for a reason. I have had a couple come bouncing down on the ROPS I have. I have the real one and not the sunshade version. It makes a lovely gong noise. The other fun thing to watch out for is if you are pushing a bunch of blow/push down trees be very careful about things coming into the cab with you. I had a tree limb/spear come right over the top of the engine and damn near pin me to the seat like a bug. Trust me when I say it doesn't take long for something like this to happen even at the slow speed of these dozers.
One of the other things you can do to get larger stuff is first is like I said cut the push side roots then as RRRancher pointed out to cut the stuff around the other sides but push that dirt to the push side to make a ramp of sorts. this will allow you to get a little higher up and apply a bit more leverage to it.
As a last resort(because I am a bit lazy). If you can climb the tree a bit hook a chain or cable to it and pull it over. I got about 300ft of 5/8" cable from a crane company for free. The only thing I had to do was sign a letter saying I would not use it for lifting and that I understood that it was being taken out of service due to age. Not a bad deal when I am using it to pull trees off of hillsides. I have cut it into two sections of 100 and 200ft that I can hook together if I have to. It is a heck of a lot easier to pull that cable up to a tree either by hand or with a four wheeler than to get the dozer up there. and as a plus I now don't tear up the ground as much with the dozer.

 

[RRRancher]

I hear ya on the spears, John. I had one try to take my right arm off once. It sure doesn't take them long to get in the cab with you. And I have the fiberglass sun shield on mine, or what's left of it. But once I get moved out to the property and settled in, a ROPS with screen sides and back is going to be one of my first projects. I like your idea of building a mound of dirt on the push side. I'll have to give that a try next time. Thanks for the idea. I would love to have a long cable like the one you have. My chain is only about 30 feet long and heavy as the dickens. No way I could throw it over a limb. I'll have to keep a look out for one on Craig's List.

 

[stathamj]

RRR,
Your situation is simular to mine. Although I don't really want to clear out good trees. I mean I just want to clear the dead, split, leaning, and limbs and branches that were left by harvesters years ago. I've mainly been looking at D4, or JD 650 or Case 850 sized dozers. But, I thought I'm not clearing it to make pasture land out of it and might could get by with a slightly smaller dozer. I looked at Trackloaders and they're harder to find than dozers around here. Anyway thanks for the reply. I'll try posting some pictures of my property by Tyler.



The first picture is of the entrance to the property. The second is of the largest pile to burn. It's one of 9 so far.The third one is just a picture of all the trees. THe fourth and fifth pictures are of the piles of limbs thet left many years ago that I want to push up and burn.

Thanks to everyone for the replies and the photos.

James

 

[John25mm]

Has anyone ever put eletric winch on their dozer? I am thinking about building a shelf to go between the uprights of the ROPS on the back of my D20 and mount it there. It would not be for long duration pulls just for when I don't have a enough room to use cable/chain to pull something or I want to use a snatch block to pull something sideways to get it around something that is in the way. Well that and if I manage to high center it. Don't ask. I am thinking about a winch in the 12000lb range. I would be using replacement bolts from the bottom of the ROPS attachment point with some bracing. I want to avoid welding as much as possible so I don't weaken anything. That and if I have to take it off I can do it with a wrench and not a torch. I have seen a few winches for the D20 series but they looked like they were for the track loader and damn if they aren't proud of them as far as cost goes. Any ideas or criticism as long as you use small words and type slowly.

 

[mitch504]

I would definitely mount it down lower, where the winch normally goes. Where you are talking about mounting it, you are talking about putting all that force on the top of your fuel tank and oil tank. that is not machine frame. I think a hard pull would warp something at best.

 

[RRRancher]

Nice looking place there, James. Hard to beat the east Texas woodlands. It looks to me like you have a little larger trees than I do. My property was clear-cut about 10-12 years ago, and they really trashed it. It must have been muddy when they did, because there are ditches where the skidders ran back and forth. And like yours, they left piles of tree tops all over the place. I am slowly filling in the ditches and trying to clean up the piles of tree tops. I really wish I had a grapple system for my tractor's front end loader so I could selectively pick up and move the larger stuff. The problem with a dozer is that when you go to pushing stuff into a pile, you can't help but get a lot of dirt too, which doesn't burn real well.

One thing to bear in mind when cleaning up with a dozer is that you have to try to keep the blade above ground as much as possible when around your good trees or it will destroy the shallow roots. I've got a landscape rake for my tractor, and if I'm just trying to clean up dead brush and rocks, I'll use it to pull everything away from the good trees, then use the dozer to push the smaller piles into bigger ones for burning. You may be a lot better with the dozer than I am, but I get to watching one thing and before I know it, I've let the blade get too low on one side and I'm ripping out a root on one of my good trees. I really wish I could afford one of those mulching machines that you just drive around, but they are way over my budget.

You said something about a trackloader. I always wondered how well they would do in clearing land. I am building several ponds and I needed the good scraping capabilities of a dozer blde, so I didn't even consider a trackloader. Have you seen the place just west of Canton on I-20 called Tractor Ranch? They have a lot of equipment on their lot and you might find just what you are looking for there. I have been contemplating buying a used backhoe and stopped there a couple of times to look around.

 

[RRRancher]

Yeah, John, I have to agree with Mitch on the location. The fuel tank and hydraulic tank are just bolted to the main frame and I don't think they would take much pulling before something lets go. If you look back on page 117 at the rear view picture of the D21 there, you see a hitch at bottom center that is bolted on to the main frame. If it were me, I would remove that and bolt on another plate to which my hoist was bolted. If you needed more width, I would think you could also remove the first two bolts farther out on each side there and replace them with longer ones that go through your plate also. That would keep you from having to weld anything and should give you a good solid mount for the winch. I'm not sure what those bolts go into though, so you might want to check the exploded view drawings in the parts manual first to make sure you can remove those bolts temporarily.

 

[Jerell]

I have a D21P-6 Kamatsu dozer and I have mounted a tree grubber on the blade and I have just finished clearing 100 acres of mesquites on my place here in central Texas. Worked the little dozer extremely hard with no problems. I'm amazed at the work these little dozers can do.

 

[John25mm]

Yeah, John, I have to agree with Mitch on the location. The fuel tank and hydraulic tank are just bolted to the main frame and I don't think they would take much pulling before something lets go. If you look back on page 117 at the rear view picture of the D21 there, you see a hitch at bottom center that is bolted on to the main frame. If it were me, I would remove that and bolt on another plate to which my hoist was bolted. If you needed more width, I would think you could also remove the first two bolts farther out on each side there and replace them with longer ones that go through your plate also. That would keep you from having to weld anything and should give you a good solid mount for the winch. I'm not sure what those bolts go into though, so you might want to check the exploded view drawings in the parts manual first to make sure you can remove those bolts temporarily.

Thanks for the reply from both you and mitch504. I don't think I was clear or I am not sure about the mounting point I was talking about. The way I was thinking is at the bottom of the rear ROPS mounting point. I was going to bolt to the bottom of that bracket. It should be mounted to the main frame of the dozer. Sorry I don't have my dozer close to look at so I can't confirm this though. I will check out the exploded views of the rear end of the dozer to see what is on the other side that all of those bolts on the back go to. I may be able to get longer bolts to bolt a plate that covers most of the rear end.

 

[ldewitt5134]

I am rebuilding my D20P-6 motor. I have it all torn down and I have no clue on how to get the sleeves out of it to put the new ones back in. Can someone tell me if their is a tool to do it with or some other way to get them out thank you.

 

[TwinPines]

idewitt5134, did you get the sleeves out?

 

[furukawajake]

Hey all, just got my little cd5pb running and am starting in on dealing with the rest of the 'deferred maintenance'. I'm wondering if anyone has a number for the hydraulic filter that goes in the tank? it measures about 3.875" od, 1.75" id and 8" long +/- with room to play on all measurments by an eighth inch or so.

thanks in advance.
jake

 

[Dozman]

Okay,I know I read it somewhere but can't find it.Replaced both clutch packs and brake bands as stated in book.(I think)The d21-p steers very little and it won't roll on a hill out of gear.It will push great! I did adjust the brakes but haven't tried it.(To cold)Where's the adjustment for the clutches? Seems to me the clutches are not releasing. H E L P

 

[RRRancher]

There is at least one post somewhere in this topic with pictures explaining how to adjust the steering clutches. I couldn't even begin to guess what page(s) to look at. It has been three years since I adjusted mine and I'm going from memory here, which isn't as sharp as it used to be. But if I remember correctly, you take off the angled panel that is right under the panel you remove to get to the batteries. Here is a picture of the rear of a D20. The battery access panel is the one with Komatsu written on it. You can see the angled panel below it and the four bolts holding it on.



Then, I believe there are two other panels you remove, one on each side to gain access to the adjustment bolts. The bolt you turn adjusts the tension on the brake band around the clutches. When you open the covers, you will be looking at the top of the bolt, if I remember correctly. I do remember distinctly taking off the angled panel under the battery access panel, but I just can't remember the rest. I do know you can drive it, get off and make a quick turn of the bolt, then get back on and try it again. It's not a major disassemble to get to the adjustment bolts.

Here is the page on the adjustment of the steering brakes. The adjustment bolt is labeled 6 on this diagram and adjustment 6 instructions are below the diagram. I would not suggest you do as instructed. I would turn the bolt about a turn counter-clockwise and try it to see if it improved, then continue adjusting as needed in the same or smaller increments until it's working correctly. I'm pretty sure CCW is loosening and CW is tightening, but I can't swear to it.



I hope this helps. The other post(s) on this forum have pictures of the other panels and what the adjustment bolt looks like when you remove the panels. Good luck.

 

[RRRancher]

I actually just went through all 119 pages on this forum looking for the adjustment pictures, but to show how bad my memory is, there are none that show the cover plates and the adjustment bolts. There were several pictures of the clutches and brake bands for replacement on pages 100 and 109. I must have seen pictures of the adjustment covers and bolt elsewhere. Anyway, I did find this post on another forum by a guy who has posted a good bit on this one also. This pretty much sums it up and confirms that i was right about the two smaller covers.

HELLO,

THERE'S NOT ACTUALLY A ADJUSTMENT ON THE CLUTCHES. THERE IS A BRAKE BAND ADJUSTMENT ON THE BACK OF THE MACHINE. THERE IS A PLATE ABOVE THE HITCH WITH 4 BOLTS HOLDING IT ON. REMOVE THE PLATE AND THERE WILL BE A ADJUSTMENT COVER ON EACH SIDE WITH TWO 17MM BOLTS IN EACH. THESE COVERS ARE ABOUT 3" LONG. YOU WILL TURN THE ADJUSTMENT CLOCKWISE UNTIL YOU HAVE 7-8" OF "TRAVEL" ON YOUR STEERING LEVERS. IF YOUR STEERING CLUTCHES ARE SLIPPING, YOU PROBABLY EITHER HAVE OIL ON THEM OR THEY ARE WORN TO THE POINT OF NEEDING REPLACEMENT.
LET ME KNOW IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS OR NEED ANY PARTS.
THANK YOU,

KENT BAUGH EQUIPMENT
2596 FM 250 N.
HUGHES SPRINGS, TX 75656
903-639-2765

Next time I have the cover off of mine, I'll take pictures and post here for future reference.

 

[RRRancher]

And since the picture size on this forum is limited in size, it may be hard to see the entire adjustment page I posted earlier, so I broke it into two pieces so they will be a bit larger. These should be more readable.

 

[Dozman]

Thanks so much for all the info everybody on the clutch adjustment I'm gonna try it today.This has been an awesome forum with a lot of great info.Finally finishing this winter project. couldn't have done it without ya! (D21-6)

 

[Dozman]

Thanks for all the help on my D21-6 you guys have been a lot of help.I'm gonna try this new info on adjusting the brakes or clutches and see if it helps.

 

[Dozman]

Okay I give it a try and it still has no brakes.I adjusted the brake adjustment all the way down and then backed them off 1 full turn.Everything is new (clutches packs,clutches,brakes,drums)and I'm sure I put them together right.It has to be the linkage.Would everybody agree?Thanks again for all the help. Oh by the way this machine was a basket case when I got it last fall and would not surprise me if someone was adjusting on the linkage!

 

[RRRancher]

It could very well be the linkage, but the brake band adjustment still comes into play in the grand scheme of things. I have attached a picture I took of mine when I had the seat out to repair an oil leak in the steering valve area a few months back. I labeled parts of it for the left side only.

First of all, I think you need to confirm that when you pull the steering handles back, the plungers are being pushed in. I labeled the left plunger with an A. This plunger actuates the valve that operates the piston that pushes the lever that releases the steering clutch. The adjustment at label D will lengthen or shorten the rod that goes from the front to the back.

The brake lever is labeled B. This is the lever that releases the brake band. The adjustment at label C is what I call the differential adjustment in that it adjusts when the brake lever is moved in relation to when the plunger is pushed in. I am also attaching the diagram from the service manual and the adjustment procedure, if you want to go by the book. But I think the adjustment at C, along with the adjustment bolt we talked about in the previous posts are key in getting the brake to engage as soon as the clutches are released.

That's all I can tell you. I really haven't touched the linkage on mine other than the bolt for the brake band adjustment discussed in the earlier posts. I come from the school of, if it's working, don't fiddle with it. Good luck with it.