I use a reverse spinning drill bit and most of the time it comes right out. If I drill all the way through the bolt and it's still stuck,:bash I now have a good hole for my E-Z out.
Good luck.
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Section for komatsu d20,21 and similar grey market dozers
- Thread starter rangerfreak
- Start date
I use a reverse spinning drill bit and most of the time it comes right out. If I drill all the way through the bolt and it's still stuck,:bash I now have a good hole for my E-Z out.
Good luck.
rangerfreak
Well-Known Member
need to know
need to know bolt size and also, how do i use the #13 in the craftsman bolt-out kit it just seems to be a hollow cylinder.
need to know bolt size and also, how do i use the #13 in the craftsman bolt-out kit it just seems to be a hollow cylinder.
Small dozer tracks...
Hi all,
I'm new here and have to get my three posts in, before I can start a new thread. I'm not hijacking this one really...
My question is regarding a Mitsubishi BD2G, which is very similar to a Komatsu D21A.
The question: Are these little guys meant to have master pins in the tracks?
If not, can you knock a pin out anywhere with a "gas axe" and a sledgehammer? I need to drop a link you see, to keep the tracks working a bit longer.
Thanks for any and all help.
Hi all,
I'm new here and have to get my three posts in, before I can start a new thread. I'm not hijacking this one really...
My question is regarding a Mitsubishi BD2G, which is very similar to a Komatsu D21A.
The question: Are these little guys meant to have master pins in the tracks?
If not, can you knock a pin out anywhere with a "gas axe" and a sledgehammer? I need to drop a link you see, to keep the tracks working a bit longer.
Thanks for any and all help.
Countryboy
Senior Member
- Joined
- Jun 8, 2006
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- Georgia
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- Load Out Tech. / Heavy Equipment Operator / Locomo
Welcome to HEF Digger145! :drinkup
Thanks
It looks like a good place to be a member.and right back at ya :drinkup
Now, it we just had a pack of cards....
John White
Well-Known Member
Msster link pin
Digger. You asked if a Mitsubishi dozer should have a master link. I have a BD2J and it does have a master link. Examine each pin closely and one should have a dimple in it.
Digger. You asked if a Mitsubishi dozer should have a master link. I have a BD2J and it does have a master link. Examine each pin closely and one should have a dimple in it.
Countryboy
Senior Member
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- Georgia
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- Load Out Tech. / Heavy Equipment Operator / Locomo
Welcome to HEF John White! :drinkup
Thanks John.
There are a few in there with a dimple, but no lock bolt on the other side. Are they a press fit or does yours have a lock bolt / pin holding the master pin in place?
I thought the dimple may have been just where it was centered in the lathe?!?
I'm going to have to do something with it very soon, as there is work waiting for it. Any help would be great.
John White
Well-Known Member
Digger, Its strange that yours would have more than one master link. There is no clip or pin holding it in. I'll try to give you the proper procedure for removing it but I am sure some one can give their two cents worth too. Here is the way I have always removed track pins. Run the dozer till the master pin is on the rear sprocket and pointed down at the floor. Put a large piece of steel (heavey, I have a piece of old rail road track) lay it close as you can get to the pin, cut a 4x4 or 2 2x4 nailed together, cut it to length so it will just reach the other sprocket on the other side. I cut mine about 1/2" short so I can drive wedges in it and keep it tight. Soak your pin down with pennetrating oil, take a medium size sedge hammer, then a punch just slightly smaller than the pin. ( got a old torsion bar off a car, as it is hardned and will not mushroom, about 1ft long, then get you a piece of 2x4 about 3ft long, bore a hole through it so bar will just fit. Have a helper hold the board, with the punch pin in it and then whack it hard with the sedge. Be sure and wear safety glasses. Usually this method will work, a few of them I have to apply a little heat. If for some reason a regular pin has been taken out and a master pin has been installed. I dont think you can still get it apart. So you have to make sure you take out the master link pin. I understand that when you take the tracks off and if you take it to a track press, and if you have one pin in the middle, that they have to start at the master link and work back. (thats what the track shop told me) I am sure others ,(maybe a track shop can give you better directions) The purpose of the large steel suupport in the back is so you will not spread the link and bend it causing it to jam, and supports sprocket and other components so alot of shock is not transmitted to them. Hope this helps.
GaryKelley
Well-Known Member
Rubber Tracks
I just picked up a D20A-7. the tracks are brittle and worn out..I have knocked off 5 steel guides on the right side so far..not sure how many more to go before I am dead in the water...I'd like to get both steel tracks AND some more rubber tracks..anybody know of an outlet somewhere WEST of the Mississippi River for such a thing?
I just picked up a D20A-7. the tracks are brittle and worn out..I have knocked off 5 steel guides on the right side so far..not sure how many more to go before I am dead in the water...I'd like to get both steel tracks AND some more rubber tracks..anybody know of an outlet somewhere WEST of the Mississippi River for such a thing?
OneWelder
Senior Member
Digger
Price out the master pin from a track shop, generally the pressed in style is not much money. If that is the case ,take an arc piercing rod ( or torch) cut a hole in from dimple as deep as you ( try for thickness of link ) as soon as you stop cutting , throw a cup of cold water in the hole- this will shrink the end of pin when it cools down / A lot of chains will still require more heat to remove pin
You have to do both ends of pin.
I have seen tracks where every pin had a dimple- The master bushing is shorter than the rest. it does not interlock in the chain. Quite often on badly worn tracks it will separate more there
Price out the master pin from a track shop, generally the pressed in style is not much money. If that is the case ,take an arc piercing rod ( or torch) cut a hole in from dimple as deep as you ( try for thickness of link ) as soon as you stop cutting , throw a cup of cold water in the hole- this will shrink the end of pin when it cools down / A lot of chains will still require more heat to remove pin
You have to do both ends of pin.
I have seen tracks where every pin had a dimple- The master bushing is shorter than the rest. it does not interlock in the chain. Quite often on badly worn tracks it will separate more there
John White
Well-Known Member
Tracks
Gary I would think that a Komatsu dealer would be able to get the guides for you. There is a fellow who advertises on E-bay that sells complete track assys. They are not cheap. McLaran makes after market rubber tracks, along with other mfg. If you can find a copy of "Heavy Equipment Trader" (usually sold at convince stores) often you will find suppliers of rubber tracks. Parts are much eaiser to find for the Komatsu than the Mitsbushi.
Gary I would think that a Komatsu dealer would be able to get the guides for you. There is a fellow who advertises on E-bay that sells complete track assys. They are not cheap. McLaran makes after market rubber tracks, along with other mfg. If you can find a copy of "Heavy Equipment Trader" (usually sold at convince stores) often you will find suppliers of rubber tracks. Parts are much eaiser to find for the Komatsu than the Mitsbushi.
Countryboy
Senior Member
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Welcome to HEF GaryKelley! :drinkup
mikek
Member
ok guys Newbie here.
found this 'hall of wisdom' while searching for info on my new2me Komatsu D21-5.
Looks like I am going to have to rebuild/reseal the track tension cylinder on the rightside of my dozer.
does anyone here have an expoded diagram of this cyl. and can anyone recommend a 'good' parts supplier.
TIA,
Mike Kelly
Collettsville, NC
found this 'hall of wisdom' while searching for info on my new2me Komatsu D21-5.
Looks like I am going to have to rebuild/reseal the track tension cylinder on the rightside of my dozer.
does anyone here have an expoded diagram of this cyl. and can anyone recommend a 'good' parts supplier.
TIA,
Mike Kelly
Collettsville, NC
Countryboy
Senior Member
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Welcome to HEF mikek! :drinkup
Transmission Fluid
Been watching and learning for a few months now I have a reason to post. Not sure if this is the correct place but I need posts to make my own thread.
I just purchased a D65P-8 doser & was wondering what the recommended fluids are for the transmission and finals. I ordered a service manual for it but that may take a while to get here. I am obviously excited to give it a try buy don't want to make any uneducated, expensive mistakes.
I am excited to be part of this forum. Thanks in advance.
Been watching and learning for a few months now I have a reason to post. Not sure if this is the correct place but I need posts to make my own thread.
I just purchased a D65P-8 doser & was wondering what the recommended fluids are for the transmission and finals. I ordered a service manual for it but that may take a while to get here. I am obviously excited to give it a try buy don't want to make any uneducated, expensive mistakes.
I am excited to be part of this forum. Thanks in advance.
Mike,
I have the big maintenace manual for the D20...I'm pretty sure the track cylinders are the same in both the '20 and '21 and the -5 and -6.
Unfortunately, that manual is at the farm and I won't be out there until the 2nd weekend in Nov. But, I will scan those pages on the tensioner for you and post them when I have the manual in hand.
4x4ford
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- aunts on the strip Currently drive a 1951 chevy pa
furukawa dozer
was told this dozer was the same as the small mitsibushi dozers was wondering if any one could give me a place for parts as the boss was using it and loss the piece that holds the blade to the c frame and it has a 6 way blade on it thanks
was told this dozer was the same as the small mitsibushi dozers was wondering if any one could give me a place for parts as the boss was using it and loss the piece that holds the blade to the c frame and it has a 6 way blade on it thanks
You should be able to discuss this with your dealer but I think generally that type of product requires SAE 30W engine oil in the transmission/steering and final drives.
Don't use multigrade engine oils as clutch or brake disc damage may result.
Countryboy
Senior Member
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- Georgia
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- Load Out Tech. / Heavy Equipment Operator / Locomo
Welcome to HEF Twisted! :drinkup