-
Thank you for visiting HeavyEquipmentForums.com! Our objective is to provide industry professionals a place to gather to exchange questions, answers and ideas. We welcome you to register using the "Register" icon at the top of the page. We'd appreciate any help you can offer in spreading the word of our new site. The more members that join, the bigger resource for all to enjoy. Thank you!
Drifting stabilizer
- Thread starter Tomvarner
- Start date
-
- Tags
- 580k drift series3 stabilizer
I posted in the wrong place. Learning how to use the forum also.
The only thing that will take a piece out of one or all of the piston rings is the threads in the cylinder barrel when installing the rod.
They either didn't compress the piston rings long enough before inserting them in the barrel, or they didn't have the piston aligned perfectly parallel with the barrel.
Holding a cylinder barrel in a vertical position and then inserting the rod assembly will eliminate seal damage. I use an engine hoist to hold the rod over the barrel before installing it.
Total BS that they charged you to repair their mistake. IMHO of course.
They either didn't compress the piston rings long enough before inserting them in the barrel, or they didn't have the piston aligned perfectly parallel with the barrel.
Holding a cylinder barrel in a vertical position and then inserting the rod assembly will eliminate seal damage. I use an engine hoist to hold the rod over the barrel before installing it.
Total BS that they charged you to repair their mistake. IMHO of course.
Good thinking! And, you will save time and money to boot!!
I use plain a ole automotive piston ring compressor.
Crank it down really tight, then wait a couple of hours and tighten it some more. Wait a couple more hours more before taking it off then put the rod in the barrel. The quicker the better.
A thin coating of grease on both the piston and the barrel threads will make it a little easier.
Put enough on the threads so that the piston rings push a small bead of grease into the barrel.
Where did the sheared off pisces go ? Hopefully they went harmlessly into the filter.
Crank it down really tight, then wait a couple of hours and tighten it some more. Wait a couple more hours more before taking it off then put the rod in the barrel. The quicker the better.
A thin coating of grease on both the piston and the barrel threads will make it a little easier.
Put enough on the threads so that the piston rings push a small bead of grease into the barrel.
Where did the sheared off pisces go ? Hopefully they went harmlessly into the filter.
katrina Li
Member
I haven’t done that on the two I’ve fixed, but I’m not saying you are wrong either. The grease method worked for me although at times it’s pretty tight to get in there which obviously is a good thing!
HarleyHappy
Senior Member
A lot of the seal kits use a z-ring for the ram seal ring which alleviate the clamp required. I will also use a solid hose clamp for silicone hoses, to compress it, especially on the Kubota seals.
Welder Dave
Senior Member
Sounds like a pretty shoddy place if they wouldn't fix it on warranty. Did you take the whole cylinder to them or just the rod? If the whole cylinder, it should have been warranty. If you put it back together it's on you.
I took just the rods in for my 4 in 1 bucket. I like the Cat cylinders because the bore is tapered wider at the end where the gland nut goes on. I oiled the seals and the piston went in far enough I could get the gland nut started. Tightening the gland nut pushed the piston in further. Also nice the threads on the barrel are external and the bore is smooth with no snap ring grooves or anything else for the seals to get damaged by. I have some more cylinders to do unfortunately including one of the lift cylinders. It's not real bad yet though. The backhoe cylinders leak more.
I took just the rods in for my 4 in 1 bucket. I like the Cat cylinders because the bore is tapered wider at the end where the gland nut goes on. I oiled the seals and the piston went in far enough I could get the gland nut started. Tightening the gland nut pushed the piston in further. Also nice the threads on the barrel are external and the bore is smooth with no snap ring grooves or anything else for the seals to get damaged by. I have some more cylinders to do unfortunately including one of the lift cylinders. It's not real bad yet though. The backhoe cylinders leak more.
This was my first experience using them. I took them the complete cylinder. I pulled it off the backhoe and took it to them. They told me that in order for them to warranty it I would need a new rod because it has some dings. I told them it wasn’t leaking at the rod seals. It was just drifting down to the ground. Not holding its position. So I didn’t get a warranty on it. Sounds like you’re really doing a lot to your backhoe. How old is yours? What do you use it for mostly? Is it a caterpillar?
If you do your own next time, and you find dings, they need to be stoned down. What I mean is if the chrome is raised, it will cut the seal, then you will have a leak. If you stone it smooth, it will not cut the seal. I have been using an angle grinder with the roloc or 3m discs to smooth the chrome for years now with no problems.
HarleyHappy
Senior Member
If you can TIG weld very good, you can actually fill in the dings and deep scratches using very little filler wire and a steady hand.
Beyond my abilities for sure.
I have herd of people using jb weld as well. For me, unless it is extreme, which sometimes happens when using a backhoe, I stone them down and they don't cause trouble.