Hoghart
Active Member
Yeah Dave, I am hoping when I open it up there is no glow plug wiring, but if there is, I agree, removal is going to be the best path forward.
-
Thank you for visiting HeavyEquipmentForums.com! Our objective is to provide industry professionals a place to gather to exchange questions, answers and ideas. We welcome you to register using the "Register" icon at the top of the page. We'd appreciate any help you can offer in spreading the word of our new site. The more members that join, the bigger resource for all to enjoy. Thank you!
Cat D7F Feedback/Advise
- Thread starter ja_cain
- Start date
Welder Dave
Senior Member
The engine seems too new to have glow plugs.
LCA078
Senior Member
I'm pretty sure that's a SLEP machine. The new'ish engine with ether cold weather start (the tall rectangle box) and oil sample ports are starndard updates for a SLEP machine. Another way to tell is if you have a concentric battery jump port on the lower left-hand side of the console by the floor. The original jump port was a two-prong side-by-side and the SLEP program updated them to a concentric port. I also found the page in the Army manual that describes the SLEP program- looks like the ROPS rear screen was an added feature too.
Attachments
LCA078
Senior Member
Okay- time for my good deed for the day.
Regarding military manuals, at least Army ones, these are free if you can find the right place to download the pdf. For the D7F, the Army Operator manual is TM 5-2410-233-10.
I'll decipher for you what that TM number means.
TM = technical manual
5 = The branch in the Army generally responsible for writing the manuals, doctrine, etc. In this case 5 means Army Corps of Engineers.
2410 = Class of the equipment. In this case 2410 is tracked equipment.
233 = The specific model of equipment which is the Cat D7F. 237 is the D7G
10 = Operator level instructions and maintenance. This informs the equipment operator how to basically start, run, and maintain the machine in the field.
In the Army, the "dash 10" always meant the user manual and it had to be located on/near the equipment being used for easy access by the operator.
The -20 is the next higher level of maintenance that can be performed by unit's mechanics that couldn't (or shouldn't) be performed by the operator in the field. This work was generally performed in the motor pool (and it was quite common for the operator to join in and help with the heavy lifting and dirty work!)
There are other -20s manuals such as -23 and -24 that describe step by step unit level repair procedures. If there is a P at the manual (really only for -23P and -24P), that is the detailed parts listings and diagrams but no procedures. You generally have both sets of manuals side by side when working on the equipment.
After that, there are -30 and -40 series manuals for depot level repair or repair work beyond the capability of the unit in the field. This level of maintenance is performed "in the rear with the gear" or way out of harms way. Again, you'll find both procedures and parts manuals in these series.
So here's my good deed: Search on the TM number without the last couple numbers. In this case "TM 5-2410-233". You can cut/paste this into your search bar: "TM 5-2410-233 type: pdf" which shows only PDF's available for download. Play around a bit and hopefully you'll find more info than you'll ever need for your new toy.
Edit: Forgot to mention that you won't find every series of manual on every machine. Some had them all, some had just a -10. No idea why, it's just the way it was. But good luck hunting on free manuals. Also pm'd you a link to make it really easy...
Regarding military manuals, at least Army ones, these are free if you can find the right place to download the pdf. For the D7F, the Army Operator manual is TM 5-2410-233-10.
I'll decipher for you what that TM number means.
TM = technical manual
5 = The branch in the Army generally responsible for writing the manuals, doctrine, etc. In this case 5 means Army Corps of Engineers.
2410 = Class of the equipment. In this case 2410 is tracked equipment.
233 = The specific model of equipment which is the Cat D7F. 237 is the D7G
10 = Operator level instructions and maintenance. This informs the equipment operator how to basically start, run, and maintain the machine in the field.
In the Army, the "dash 10" always meant the user manual and it had to be located on/near the equipment being used for easy access by the operator.
The -20 is the next higher level of maintenance that can be performed by unit's mechanics that couldn't (or shouldn't) be performed by the operator in the field. This work was generally performed in the motor pool (and it was quite common for the operator to join in and help with the heavy lifting and dirty work!)
There are other -20s manuals such as -23 and -24 that describe step by step unit level repair procedures. If there is a P at the manual (really only for -23P and -24P), that is the detailed parts listings and diagrams but no procedures. You generally have both sets of manuals side by side when working on the equipment.
After that, there are -30 and -40 series manuals for depot level repair or repair work beyond the capability of the unit in the field. This level of maintenance is performed "in the rear with the gear" or way out of harms way. Again, you'll find both procedures and parts manuals in these series.
So here's my good deed: Search on the TM number without the last couple numbers. In this case "TM 5-2410-233". You can cut/paste this into your search bar: "TM 5-2410-233 type: pdf" which shows only PDF's available for download. Play around a bit and hopefully you'll find more info than you'll ever need for your new toy.
Edit: Forgot to mention that you won't find every series of manual on every machine. Some had them all, some had just a -10. No idea why, it's just the way it was. But good luck hunting on free manuals. Also pm'd you a link to make it really easy...
Last edited:
Hoghart
Active Member
While reviewing the operation manual I found a couple of notes referencing the SLEP. These notes (if correct) confirm that this machine was run through the SLEP. It raises other questions about when: the engine is from Oct 1997, and the previously noted tag “Reworked 
by VSE Corporation 02/2011”. Did DoD buy a bunch of engines to install at a later date? Has it been gone through twice? Seems like the more I learn, the more questions are raised.
by VSE Corporation 02/2011”. Did DoD buy a bunch of engines to install at a later date? Has it been gone through twice? Seems like the more I learn, the more questions are raised.
Nige
Senior Member
The engine could quite easily have sat in storage from the time it was built until it was used years later. It wouldn't be unusual for the military, who don't appear to have the capability to plan their way out of a wet paper bag unless there is a war on.......
LCA078
Senior Member
Reworked in the military could mean anything. From my perspective, the dozer was SLEP'd in the late 90's, than sat in an motor pool for years while the wars waged on. There's a possibility the dozer went through a reset program from either being overseas or from being transferred from one component to another and the VSE folks just did a thorough maintenance job (ie- change the fluids, filters, and gave her a paint job) for the gaining unit. The only items I would focus on now that you own her is ensuring all fluids and filters are changed out, no rotten hoses or belts, and giving it solid grease job (per the manual) before you do any work. Don't get crazy and start pushing trees and gobs of dirt until you're sure she's been pampered a bit.
And here's an important lesson I learned the hard way: CHECK YOUR OIL LEVEL every couple hours until you're sure you're not dumping fuel into the crankcase by bad seals on your fuel lift pump. Or better yet, buy a new lift pump for the $180 bucks from CTP and not worry about it. The lift pump can leak from being old and it leaks directly into your crankcase. When you dilute your engine oil with diesel, you quickly eat your main bearings in that engine. Very quickly.
And here's an important lesson I learned the hard way: CHECK YOUR OIL LEVEL every couple hours until you're sure you're not dumping fuel into the crankcase by bad seals on your fuel lift pump. Or better yet, buy a new lift pump for the $180 bucks from CTP and not worry about it. The lift pump can leak from being old and it leaks directly into your crankcase. When you dilute your engine oil with diesel, you quickly eat your main bearings in that engine. Very quickly.
Last edited:
Hoghart
Active Member
Thanks for the great advice. I plan on going through it thoroughly. Probably won’t be pushing anything until early summer.
Nige
Senior Member
Hoghart
Active Member
See attached picture of the ignition switch. I can’t see anything resembling glow plug wiring. The red wire goes over to power the ether button. I spent the afternoon re-routing some of the wires that were/could foul with the clutch linkages and the throttle linkage.
LCA078
Senior Member
On the lower left portion of the panel near your left foot, you should see a slave (jumper) cable connection. Is it a side-by-side two prong or a concentric version? Original D7Fs had the side by side and the SLEP machines were changed out to a concentric version.
Hoghart
Active Member
Hoghart
Active Member
Just took this pic this afternoon. I knew there was something about it that indicated SLEP, but didn’t know what.
LCA078
Senior Member
Yup, that's the newer NATO concentric style slave cable connecter. The older side-by-side looks like this
.
You can even see the old mounting holes on your dozer.
I think it's a firm decision you have a dozer that went through SLEP program. Hopefully it was gently used and well cared for afterwards.
You can even see the old mounting holes on your dozer.
I think it's a firm decision you have a dozer that went through SLEP program. Hopefully it was gently used and well cared for afterwards.
Hoghart
Active Member
LCA078
Senior Member
Bingo! Can you take a pic of exactly where the tag is located. I've never found mine but I have a winch so maybe it's covered up. Curious where it's located.
Hoghart
Active Member
I have read that on the winch equipped units the tag should be on the back of the tractor, left side. The ripper equipped tractors usually near the jump plug. You can see on the pic that mine is at about 10:30 relative to the round plate on the rear.
LCA078
Senior Member
Thanks for the pic. I'll look again for a tag on mine but it's possible it fell off or they removed the original rippers and installed a winch instead that covered up the tag. Next time I'm at my machine I'll take a pic of the hydraulic lines coming out of the right of the machine. They definitely don't look original so who knows what they did.
The military had nice rippers on the back. I'm sure you can tear up some sod with those.
The military had nice rippers on the back. I'm sure you can tear up some sod with those.
Hoghart
Active Member
Looking for any helpful tips on flipping the ripper shanks over. They are currently inverted, and I can lift them out with a chain and loader bucket, but I am hoping that there is a relatively easy way to stand them up and re-install into the sleeves.
Welder Dave
Senior Member
Most of the larger ripper shanks have a loop of round bar or something welded on the top so a chain or clevis can be used to hold it vertical.