Broken Bolt - Crossmember to Reverser - John Deere 350 - How to Fix?

[AU.CASE]

Have been here and it is a problem needing a solution, in our case several 1" UNC [grade 10] bolts.

The outcome I noticed is that HT bolts usually don't deform and when we centre drilled the broken stub, then heated the factory thread lock, they all wound out by hand without much resistance at all.

So, hope you have a similar result.

https://heavyequipmentforums.com/threads/1000-hour-service-case-1150d.123781/post-1377607

 

[Simon C]

I always if possible drill a 1/8 or 9/64 hole through the center of it using a piece of tight fitting guide in the hole to be able to drill perfectly straight. I always remind myself that each 1/16 drilled or close to it I need to pull out all the cuttings to prevent snapping off the bit. If I make it all the way through I then shoot some Lloyds Moovit penetrating oil with the tube up into the top side of the broken bolt.
I do that 2-3 times then heat the bolt up about 300 degrees with a propane torch to help the penetrating oil on top to work its way down. I usually wipe the face with brakleen on the end of a screw driver with a rag on it . I have taken out a lot with a piece of tight fitting pipe held in there tight and weld with 7018 in a circle about 1-1/2 revolutions and stop.
Let it cool for 30 seconds and most of the time the pipe can be worked back and forth with a set of vice grips to pull it out.
Had to drill a 980 Wheel loader stump pan and in the end had to with proper set up drill them all out just under the thread size and was able to retap the holes.
It doesn't always work perfectly in the real world. If you could get that piece out of the way a nut welded on would put a lot of heat into the broken piece to help get it out.
Simon C

 

[bulletpruf]

Have been here and it is a problem needing a solution, in our case several 1" UNC [grade 10] bolts.

The outcome I noticed is that HT bolts usually don't deform and when we centre drilled the broken stub, then heated the factory thread lock, they all wound out by hand without much resistance at all.

So, hope you have a similar result.

https://heavyequipmentforums.com/threads/1000-hour-service-case-1150d.123781/post-1377607

I'm hoping for an uneventful removal, but the bolts have been in place for about 59 years or so, so they may be a bit reluctant to depart...

 

[bulletpruf]

I always if possible drill a 1/8 or 9/64 hole through the center of it using a piece of tight fitting guide in the hole to be able to drill perfectly straight. I always remind myself that each 1/16 drilled or close to it I need to pull out all the cuttings to prevent snapping off the bit. If I make it all the way through I then shoot some Lloyds Moovit penetrating oil with the tube up into the top side of the broken bolt.
I do that 2-3 times then heat the bolt up about 300 degrees with a propane torch to help the penetrating oil on top to work its way down. I usually wipe the face with brakleen on the end of a screw driver with a rag on it . I have taken out a lot with a piece of tight fitting pipe held in there tight and weld with 7018 in a circle about 1-1/2 revolutions and stop.
Let it cool for 30 seconds and most of the time the pipe can be worked back and forth with a set of vice grips to pull it out.
Had to drill a 980 Wheel loader stump pan and in the end had to with proper set up drill them all out just under the thread size and was able to retap the holes.
It doesn't always work perfectly in the real world. If you could get that piece out of the way a nut welded on would put a lot of heat into the broken piece to help get it out.
Simon C

I will be using a guide/pilot that fits the hole.

Good point on removing the swarf.

Never heard of Lloyd's Moovit, but I always have plenty of Kroil on hand.

I'll heat the stub before and after drilling.

Thanks for the input.

Scott

 

[oarwhat]

I'm hoping for an uneventful removal, but the bolts have been in place for about 59 years or so, so they may be a bit reluctant to depart...

Those bolts have been replaced at least once. You can some gold on the existing one. We had a straight 450. It broke bolts all the time. Mostly on the frame rail outside of the bell housing. We couldn't keep those from breaking. I would definitely check those. I'd drill before welding. Once you weld you have a very hard time drilling. I hope you have good luck.

 

[bulletpruf]

Those bolts have been replaced at least once. You can some gold on the existing one. We had a straight 450. It broke bolts all the time. Mostly on the frame rail outside of the bell housing. We couldn't keep those from breaking. I would definitely check those. I'd drill before welding. Once you weld you have a very hard time drilling. I hope you have good luck.

Thanks for the input.