Ed's 77 Terex 72-41

[Bluox]

You have a busted liner because the piston has tried to seize up.
Bob

 

[kshansen]

You have a busted liner because the piston has tried to seize up.
Bob

Yep does not look good!

Sorry don't have a parts book to tell me what the flywheel housing is. I'm assuming that type number would tell you which side the starter is on and what number size the housing is along with other info.

 

[mountainguyed67]

You have a busted liner because the piston has tried to seize up.
Bob

What causes that?

 

[mountainguyed67]

Sorry don't have a parts book to tell me what the flywheel housing is. I'm assuming that type number would tell you which side the starter is on and what number size the housing is along with other info.

Now that you mention it I remember the manual breaking down the model number, I’ll look again.

I ask because I’m looking at replacing it. I’ve never been happy with the power, and would like to go to a turbo. Maybe it was already low power and I would be happy with a fresh rebuild, better on the safe side though.

One I’m looking at has the starter on the opposite side, will that work if I run a cable to it?

Exhaust is on the same side.

 

[kshansen]

Now that you mention it I remember the manual breaking down the model number, I’ll look again.

I ask because I’m looking at replacing it. I’ve never been happy with the power, and would like to go to a turbo. Maybe it was already low power and I would be happy with a fresh rebuild, better on the safe side though.

One I’m looking at has the starter on the opposite side, will that work if I run a cable to it?

Exhaust is on the same side.

Hard to tell without seeing both of them. Just make sure the engine in question is the same rotation, some boat applications and some others were built with opposite rotation for various applications.

One of the good things about Detroits is also one of the bad things about Detroits is that there were deigned to be configured in many different ways! If you have the service manual just look at one of the first pages and it should give you a good idea what you can build one to do!
View attachment 230013

 

[kshansen]

Tried editing post above to add a page out of service manual but messed it up so I 'll try putting it here:

 

[mountainguyed67]

So I have an RC engine, the crankshaft turns clockwise when viewed from the fan end. Configuration is the same.

 

[mountainguyed67]

Okay the one I mentioned earlier, there’s no paperwork, no warranty, no return, and he won’t start it for a video because it’s a zero hour rebuild. He bought it at an auction. Makes me leery of buying it. I want proof it works.

Another one, the model number is the same except mine is Industrial and it’s power-base, mine is 4 valve N, and it’s turbo. Also I’m not finding a key on “Specific model number”. Mine is 30, and it’s 12.

A third one, the only difference is it’s a turbo and the “Specific model number” is 05. And it has a 3 phase generator on it. Our mountain property needs a generator, but I don’t need 3 phase. I’d jump on it if it was single phase, I could put the loader engine on it later. And have the turbo on the loader. Anybody know if the 3 phase can be converted? Not just for one motor, that’s the only type phase converter I’m finding.

I’m not finding any other turbos with the correct engine arrangement.

Also there isn’t anything in the model number that says the starter location, or maybe that’s in the specific model number?

 

[mountainguyed67]

Also, there’s nothing about the bell housing number. Maybe it’s part of the specific model number.

 

[mountainguyed67]

I’m going to look at an engine tomorrow. What should I look for? It has an oil pressure gauge on it. He says he won’t let me pull the air box covers to inspect the pistons. He insists it’s pristine, very low hours.

 

[mountainguyed67]

I haven’t found anything indicating bell housing type either, are they standard?

 

[mountainguyed67]

As for the application designation, will it still bolt up? They’re just dressed up differently?

 

[kshansen]

Hard to be sure from where I sit but one thing you might keep in mind is if your machine's engine is running a "wet flywheel" you might need to change the rear seal in the replacement engine if it was built to be a dry flywheel application. Not a bad job if you have the tooling to do the job. Someone with the tools could due the job with it sitting in the back of your truck just need to have the flywheel off for access.

Other things might depend on the cooling set up on the two engines, like oil coolers and water pump. But most of those would be a matter or moving things from one engine to the other. There might be pumps driven off the timing gears of your engine again should be just a case of moving parts from one to the other most of those things can be swapped without removing the flywheel housing.

The best I can say about the flywheel housing in general is you would be best to measure openings and count the bolt holes and take a picture of yours to compare it to the "new engine".

Just one more thing I thought of is the oil pan and pump inside. A loader will probably have a scavenger pump to make sure oil gets back to the sump of the pan if running on uneven ground where this would not be needed on a genset, stationery engine or even a truck engine. So you may have to swap some things there too!

 

[56wrench]

all things considered, it may be easier to repair yours. it also depends if you do the work yourself. as kshansen said, there may be all that stuff to change over and also the replacement may need the governor changed, so that would require a valve/injector/governor tune-up. you said yours was lacking in power but that may have been because that cylinder had -been going south for a while-maybe some of the others are too

 

[mountainguyed67]

I haven’t found anything indicating bell housing type either

Now I see why. I could just swap it, right?

 

[mountainguyed67]

There might be pumps driven off the timing gears of your engine again should be just a case of moving parts from one to the other most of those things can be swapped without removing the flywheel housing.

I was curious if the engine would already have what the pumps mesh with internally.

 

[mountainguyed67]

The best I can say about the flywheel housing in general is you would be best to measure openings and count the bolt holes and take a picture of yours to compare it to the "new engine".

Can this be accomplished without removing the engine from the loader? I’m thinking not.

 

[mountainguyed67]

all things considered, it may be easier to repair yours. it also depends if you do the work yourself. as kshansen said, there may be all that stuff to change over and also the replacement may need the governor changed, so that would require a valve/injector/governor tune-up. you said yours was lacking in power but that may have been because that cylinder had -been going south for a while-maybe some of the others are too

I’m determined to get a turbo. There are steep hills where the loader is, and I figure they upgraded to a turbo later for a reason. I’ll get through it.

 

[mountainguyed67]

most of those would be a matter or moving things from one engine to the other.

I’ve done a lot of this with my International 4 wheel drives over the last 30 plus years. I just need t know what to swap, other than the obvious. You guys are pointing that out. I can dress the new engine up the same as the old, I can get the specifics of how to do that here.

 

[mountainguyed67]