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Training for Excavator

SMLWinds

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2014
Messages
65
Location
Tappahannock, VA
Guys-I just bought a Cat 304CCR excavator for miscellaneous personal use (also bought a 267B skid steer). I am cautious, intelligent, and generally safe but admit I have no experience operating heavy machinery. I want to avoid being one of the guys who did something stupid with their heavy machinery.

Where can I find basic training on operating an excavator? Are there books? Videos? Driving schools? I have spent time using it in an open space on flat ground to get the hang of the controls, but there are so many things I probably don't know that are second nature and common sense to those of you that have driven them for years. Where can I find a list of the basics of driving an excavator? Things like how to carry the bucket when moving, how to go up and down slopes, which direction to turn the tracks or face the blade for X,Y, or Z.

Any help you can offer is appreciated!
 

seriouswork

Member
Joined
Dec 8, 2014
Messages
14
Location
Washington
Well, I can definitely identify with you! Until this past summer, I had no experience with operating heavy equipment either, and then I got a job in the heavy equipment industry.

Needless to say, I've gone from a complete noob to something slightly better than one in a few months. From my experience, it's typically best to get some person-to-person help with the basic controls of your machine before you start using it regularly.

I'd recommend talking with your local Cat dealer (from your profile location, it looks like it should be Carter Machinery in Ashland Park, VA), and possibly requesting a demo operator to come out and walk you through the controls of the machine.

You could also find some Youtube videos (and there are some good ones) on how to operate an excavator/skidsteer, etc.

And once you find some information regarding which control does what, perhaps make a sheet listing which control is responsible for which function.

Since I'm not familiar with your particular excavator, I can only speak generally, but I do know that many of those mini-excavators have a small dozer blade in the front.

In your cab, there are two joysticks of course for boom and stick movement, but if you have the dozer blade option, then you'll have a third lever on your right hand side (if I recall properly) responsible for its operation. When you're digging in a stationary position, you probably want that blade on the ground, but when you move, you want to pick it up to avoid pushing the dirt around you forward.

That's one basic tip I can share, but I'd be happy to answer further questions from my limited experience. I know these things have helped me as a learning operator, and my goal is to be safe too, so I want to help in whatever way I can.
 

JD8875

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 8, 2010
Messages
314
Location
Harrisonville, Missouri
When I bought my mini ex I had never ran one before either. That was four years ago. I'm not the artist some folks on here are but I can put it in and out of some crazy places and do some amazing things with it even though its only 8000lbs. I learned to jump turn, cross obstacles (like sidewalks, pipes and lawn decor), grade, position, cross ditches and all sorts of professional looking things from youtube. Letsdig 18 has some great videos in his older stuff for running an excavator of any size. Bobcatninja2124 also has some great stuff in his older videos on how to handle a mini ex. Chris and Tom are both amazing operators to watch. I'm sure theres other guys on here that have some great videos but these two really helped make me an operator. John Deere also has a line of safety videos on youtube that are very textbook in how to handle the machine. This forum will have lots of info on what to do and not to do. I've read it a million times here not to dig over the drive motors, blades are for stability not pushing, all sorts of things like that. I try not to dig over my drive motors but I dig a lot of utility trenches from a transformer to a house, water meter to a house or between buildings. I do the majority of the digging over the blade as you "should" then spin around and cut the last few feet of ditch out, pull the two ditches together and then jump the machine off the ditch. When I get done the shovel work is minimal and I've dug between two structures without getting off the machine, without shoveling the ditch out, without caving it in. Really its a lot of practice and experience. What types of things are you setting out to do with your new machines? Maybe that will help us give you some pointers.

John
 

seriouswork

Member
Joined
Dec 8, 2014
Messages
14
Location
Washington
When I bought my mini ex I had never ran one before either. That was four years ago. I'm not the artist some folks on here are but I can put it in and out of some crazy places and do some amazing things with it even though its only 8000lbs. I learned to jump turn, cross obstacles (like sidewalks, pipes and lawn decor), grade, position, cross ditches and all sorts of professional looking things from youtube. Letsdig 18 has some great videos in his older stuff for running an excavator of any size. Bobcatninja2124 also has some great stuff in his older videos on how to handle a mini ex. Chris and Tom are both amazing operators to watch. I'm sure theres other guys on here that have some great videos but these two really helped make me an operator. John Deere also has a line of safety videos on youtube that are very textbook in how to handle the machine. This forum will have lots of info on what to do and not to do. I've read it a million times here not to dig over the drive motors, blades are for stability not pushing, all sorts of things like that. I try not to dig over my drive motors but I dig a lot of utility trenches from a transformer to a house, water meter to a house or between buildings. I do the majority of the digging over the blade as you "should" then spin around and cut the last few feet of ditch out, pull the two ditches together and then jump the machine off the ditch. When I get done the shovel work is minimal and I've dug between two structures without getting off the machine, without shoveling the ditch out, without caving it in. Really its a lot of practice and experience. What types of things are you setting out to do with your new machines? Maybe that will help us give you some pointers.

John

I don't mean to hijack the OP's thread, but what is a jump turn? I'm pretty green myself as far as the terminology of machine operation goes.
 

Logan

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 30, 2010
Messages
98
Location
New Zealand
Occupation
Logger excavator operator and dad.
Think he means boom assisted repositioning of the tracks there serious work.. Implement on the ground, raise toes, one pedal hard forward, one hard back, while slewing where you wanna go.

Seat time has been my teacher, bought my own, taught myself like you have, SMLWinds. You're probably the type who enjoys that kind of learn as you go stuff. You're quite right to identify that newness to task is a safety issue. I personally looked for books but found none that had what I needed to know. So I asked a few obvious maestros and they just said, " get in, start slow, get every move right, smooth is fast, experience is the best training so get experienced." Which is pretty much what you have started doing.

Safety wise on slopes one of the things you need to watch is slewing with the implement out too far. If you're quick you'll live to know what I mean. Keep it in low and close and move slow.Steeper you are, slower you go. Listen to your butt cheeks when lifting stuff that might lift your butt off the ground. The slower you do it the safer it will be. You'll learn how much lift is safe, or how much you are comfortable with.

Some people shun seat belts but the fact is if you f something up, seat belts keep you in the control position so you can recover. You should develop a system where you stay belted in until you lock out the hydraulics. Make that a habit. If you're on uneven or stumpy hill country and get in a fix, getting out and having a proper look at what can be done is always a big help in the beginning. ROPS is a must on hills. I've been advised to drop the boom when you go mobile on hills, by that I mean when you start to slide. Sometimes that's a good idea but if its really slushy and you're facing downhill, sometimes the machine ( 20 tonners anyway) like to pivot off the implement if you put it down too hard. Main thing is to keep calm and hope you're brainy enough to survive, and brainy enough to stay off the steep when its slushy next time. I've been on ground so wet that when you are sitting still with implement slightly raised, you go to draw it in towards the cab and instead the whole machine slides towards the implement. Like grease.

Traction wise some hills are better approached at half revs or less to stop your tracks spinning. And if you're still having issues getting up, poke the stick right out and pretty much on the ground, that will keep your toes down and maximise your tractive area. And if it decides to go mobile backwards then its more likely to respond kindly to dropping the implement as an anchor, so to speak. Tracks up and down is a mantra you hear a bit. Later on you learn that on some ground if you soften it up ahead of you then diagonal climbing is safer as the machine can sit down in the soil and hold more sideways than straight up and down. To a point. Learning those limits just comes from pottering about with a safety first attitude. One time early on in my learning I walked away from a machine after hooking the bucket around a tree and chaining it there. Was busy tracking and didn't notice big rain clouds coming in. Within a minute the dirt was slush and the machine wanted to go mobile. No shame in it, that was the safest thing to do and when it dried out I went and finished the track and retrieved it, and learned that hill tracks need to be tilted into the hill and have a buffer zone of extra width.
 
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jughead

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2007
Messages
284
Location
soddy-daisy tn.
Occupation
retired
one near miss without a seat belt will make a believer of one. mine was on a loader want over a rather large log incorrectly tossed me over the dash almost hugged a very hot exhaust. needless to say i never move a piece of equipment without buckling the seat belt.
 

CM1995

Administrator
Joined
Jan 21, 2007
Messages
13,621
Location
Alabama
Occupation
Running what I brung and taking what I win
I agree with jughead, first and foremost wear your seatbelt. Especially on a mini-exc. , they can be bucking broncos on rough ground.
 

SMLWinds

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2014
Messages
65
Location
Tappahannock, VA
Thanks for the responses. Seat belt is a no-brianer for me....I don't star the machine without it buckled and don't unbuckle it until I park it and turn it off. I'm mainly looking for ways that I can avoid needing the seat belt!

For example, yesterday, I was digging in my yard (dirt was wet) and spinning to dump it behind me. When I got one big scoop, I rotated the machine and started to tip over sideways. I was moving the bucket low so it just leaned and the bucket hit the ground and then I used the boom to right the machine but it was a scare. After that, I figured it would be best to reduce the lever arm and keep the full bucket closer to the machine and had no more problems.

I have the good grip on all the controls, I just need to basics of driving. I do know that putting the blade in the direction of where you are digging provides better stability. But, I need to know things like how to point the tracks when doing up and down inclines. How much is too much of an incline? How to you stabilize if digging on a slight slope? Which direction to point the tracks for X,Y, and Z. Etc.

Some of the comments above are helpful. Even if I thought the same thing, it is good to have confirmation. Please keep the comments coming and any links to books, blogs, videos, etc. I should utilize are appreciated.

I guess at this point I think I have a good idea of safety but I lack experience or formal training so I worry I may not know, what I don't know. A person who doesn't know something is dangerous, but those that don't know and don't realize they don't know are the most dangerous. I am trying to avoid being that person!
 

Logan

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 30, 2010
Messages
98
Location
New Zealand
Occupation
Logger excavator operator and dad.
If you use the rough guide of what slope is too steep, that is a slope the tracks can't climb up. If you're already at the top and planning on going down then I don't know how you work that one out. People talk about % of slope and angle etc but I just listen to my ass. Sometimes I get out and walk thru to make sure there is a clear path, IE no stumps that need to be worked around where doing so could get embarrassing. Slope limits your turn-ability and limits your safety, the steeper it is the slower you need to go and you basically give yourself time to process what is happening to the machine as a consequence of your operation of the controls. Some guys get to the point where they will tackle some slope tasks with a full fuel tank, but not a low fuel tank because they can feel the difference in balance in the machine. Your experience with the machine tipping with a load, that's an important lesson and you need to understand clearly why it happened. Some jokers will say its because you need a bigger machine but no digger is ever big enough. On a slope your machine will do the same with a much lighter load, and even with the implement in closer, but the result could be much more dangerous.

It will depend on the guy but there is probably a rule of thumb about how many hours of experience a person needs before they tackle a certain slope task. I have only done 6000 hours so am really just a pup compared to some guys and maybe somebody more experienced will jump in and have a few words to say.

The way I stabilise on a slope to dig is just reach up and make a flat pad, climb up onto it and little by little you level the track in front of you and keep moving along. Keeping in mind the soft fill needs to be higher than the virgin ground and then pressed down or compacted with the implement before driving on it. In steeper ground I like to track roll each section a couple times too before digging some more, this will pack it down so I can be more sure of the footing, and work with more confidence and pace.. If you are working in medium to steep or even rolling hill country, it is quite possible to come close to killing yourself in an excavator multiple times a day. So take great care of yourself and take your time. It probably helps to think about the result you want for the task too. Maybe you want people to be impressed with the smooth grades of your new track and the nice evenly battered banks and correctly positioned culverts to keep the local authorities happy. Focussing on those kinds of things as you work the machine will help to make sure they happen.
 
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cuttin edge

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 9, 2014
Messages
2,783
Location
NB Canada
Occupation
Finish grader operator
If it is your own gear, be mindful of proper service times, and be sure to grease it, as worn bushings are expensive. Buy clean fuel. Also those rubber tracks are big bucks, so look after them. As operators, we try to look after the machine that puts the food on our table, but we can only do what the owners allow. As an owner you have a greater responsability to look after your gear, because a broken machine ain't makin money.
 
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