This is my first post, i have been watching for a while. i have aD20p-6 and i have probiems with the engine turning over.I't will not turn over with the key until the charge light comes on. you can leave the switch on for awhile and when the charge light comes on it will start,sometimes it takes 10-15 min. i sure could use some advise, thanks.
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Section for komatsu d20,21 and similar grey market dozers
- Thread starter rangerfreak
- Start date
PonyExpress94
Active Member
Good afternoon everyone,
I currently own a 1987 D21E-6, with powershift 3 spd trans, 6 way blade controlled by two levers and it also has lever steering on the dash and a decelerator pedal. Currently the machine has 2,915 hours (assuming hourmeter has always worked!!). The track shoes (12" wide pads) are very near the end of their useful life but the rest of the undercarriage is in excellent shape. It's not the prettiest dozer but it does what is asked of it.
I currently have a few issues with it and am seeking some advice. The spool valves for the blade are leaking and most likely running down into the steering case and causing poor steering to the right (right turning brake not very grabby). The engine has a steady blue haze of blow-by while running and I may have a failing injector because it has developed a miss. I am the third owner of this machine and i will sheepishly admit that my inexperience allowed me to overlook some of these things when I found this machine for sale, however it was the only one that was even in my price range. Now the bright spot is the machine started giving me trouble after the big projects on the family property were done, but some remain at my property and I will need this type of machine for the forseeable future.
So here's the question: do I keep this machine and possibly dump lots of money into it fixing all the problems that are showing up? Or should I consider facing the facts (losing money trading it since I probably paid too much for it) and trade it for a newer version. I ask because there are several machines reasonably close to my area that are attractively priced with VERY low hours. Are the newer joystick steer and joystick blade machines more or less reliable? Is my older all mechanical dozer a better platform to maintain? I'm intrigiued with a newer machine because I can get one with fewer hours(between 200 and 500 hours) which translates to less time being maintained poorly by someone else.
Sorry for the long post and thank you in advance to all who provide honest responses, I'm not looking for pity on my mistakes I just don't want to make another one!!!!!
I currently own a 1987 D21E-6, with powershift 3 spd trans, 6 way blade controlled by two levers and it also has lever steering on the dash and a decelerator pedal. Currently the machine has 2,915 hours (assuming hourmeter has always worked!!). The track shoes (12" wide pads) are very near the end of their useful life but the rest of the undercarriage is in excellent shape. It's not the prettiest dozer but it does what is asked of it.
I currently have a few issues with it and am seeking some advice. The spool valves for the blade are leaking and most likely running down into the steering case and causing poor steering to the right (right turning brake not very grabby). The engine has a steady blue haze of blow-by while running and I may have a failing injector because it has developed a miss. I am the third owner of this machine and i will sheepishly admit that my inexperience allowed me to overlook some of these things when I found this machine for sale, however it was the only one that was even in my price range. Now the bright spot is the machine started giving me trouble after the big projects on the family property were done, but some remain at my property and I will need this type of machine for the forseeable future.
So here's the question: do I keep this machine and possibly dump lots of money into it fixing all the problems that are showing up? Or should I consider facing the facts (losing money trading it since I probably paid too much for it) and trade it for a newer version. I ask because there are several machines reasonably close to my area that are attractively priced with VERY low hours. Are the newer joystick steer and joystick blade machines more or less reliable? Is my older all mechanical dozer a better platform to maintain? I'm intrigiued with a newer machine because I can get one with fewer hours(between 200 and 500 hours) which translates to less time being maintained poorly by someone else.
Sorry for the long post and thank you in advance to all who provide honest responses, I'm not looking for pity on my mistakes I just don't want to make another one!!!!!
Last edited:
J Olender
Well-Known Member
Ponyexpress, I have a D38E-1 which has the joy sticks for the blade and steering. I highly recommend this set up. It is quite user friendly and productive. I'm not sure what to tell you about when to replace your machine. Maybe you could pay a good mechanic to look at it and give you an estimate to get it fixed. I have found one thing, tractors aren't a great investment unless your tractor is making you lots of money. Yet they are quite satisfying to use.
Attachments
shouldabeen
Active Member
Need brakes for D20 any leads or expected prices will do labor in house need a parts man.
darinray
Charter Member
Is it for the D21P-7? I have those.. Contact me..
shouldabeen
Active Member
No my friends D20 the R side has no more adjustment he called this morning I said id get him some prices. I think ill text him your number.
Stuck clutch
After setting up a couple of months my main drive clutch will not disengage. Fluid level and linkage look good. D 20. Steers and runs fine but i have to kill the dozer and shift then restart to change gears. otherwise it will just grind when I try. I would appreciate your help. Nick:beatsme
After setting up a couple of months my main drive clutch will not disengage. Fluid level and linkage look good. D 20. Steers and runs fine but i have to kill the dozer and shift then restart to change gears. otherwise it will just grind when I try. I would appreciate your help. Nick:beatsme
FurakawaMatt
Well-Known Member
Not sure if your dozer has this but its a thought. On my Furukawa the drive shaft had a braking device that when you pushed the clutch in it would stop the drive shaft from spinning (thus being able to put into gear). It needed adjustment as it wore down from friction. It was located under the front floor board and has a adjustment rod and spring.
darinray
Charter Member
Yeah it has the inertia brake Matt is talking of. Try to adjust that and you should be all set. If the shaft doesn't stop don't even try to find the gear because all that happens is the teeth get wore. 
darinray
Charter Member
Not good.. Sounds like you need to tear into that one. You need to see whats going on inside unless someone adjusted the linkages on your while it sat. ???
You need to see whats going on inside unless someone adjusted the linkages on your while it sat. ???Iron@Dirt
Senior Member
Sounds like disc and pressure plate are stuck together. You could try pulling on something with clutch open, but carefull not to break something.
darinray, I hope these darned cows have not started working on my equiptment !!!!
Iron@dirt, I kind of had the same thought . I am going to take a 5' run at a very large tree with the clutch pedal depressed . I will check for dead limbs first and hope for the best . If I hear something break .....I am not above crying . And if I find any of my tools in the cows holding area.............................There will be a BBQ tonight !
Iron@dirt, I kind of had the same thought . I am going to take a 5' run at a very large tree with the clutch pedal depressed . I will check for dead limbs first and hope for the best . If I hear something break .....I am not above crying . And if I find any of my tools in the cows holding area.............................There will be a BBQ tonight !
Hi everybody, jerry here from missouri, I'm new to the forum and been reading and catching up. Could be the plates are just stuck togather from sitting to long. I,ve a question for Darinray. My d21a-3 came up with water in the oil pan (about 2 gallons) I pulled the head and cant find any indication of leakage anywhere. i thought maybe oil cooler but cant find any cooler except the transmission cooler. any ideas? thanks jerry
_Rod
Active Member
I restore old military vehicles as a hobby. Occasionaly the clutch on an old Jeep will stick to the pressure plate. What I usually do, is to crank the jeep and drive it while pumping the clutch. Sometimes it takes only a few feet, other times it has taken a 1/4 mile or so. I have not ever had one to not break free.
Don't know if this will work on a dozer or not since I am new to dozers.
Don't know if this will work on a dozer or not since I am new to dozers.
D37P-5A Track Adjuster Problem
Howdy. I'm new here so I apologize now if I'm not doing this right.
My D37 (1995 Model) has a track adjuster problem. The left track started going slack to where it was about to sling the track off. I pumped in some grease and tightened it up only to find it going slack again within minutes. I discovered after a couple of times doing this that grease is coming out of the other end of the adjuster as I pump it in. Maybe the seal is leaking? Any suggestions of how to solve this little problem.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Howdy. I'm new here so I apologize now if I'm not doing this right.
My D37 (1995 Model) has a track adjuster problem. The left track started going slack to where it was about to sling the track off. I pumped in some grease and tightened it up only to find it going slack again within minutes. I discovered after a couple of times doing this that grease is coming out of the other end of the adjuster as I pump it in. Maybe the seal is leaking? Any suggestions of how to solve this little problem.
Thanks in advance for any help.
darinray
Charter Member
Contact me through email by clicking my link below and I can send you a picture of what I know.
darinray
Charter Member
All you have to do is get your track pulled off to the side and don't take it completely off unless you have the gator clip link. If you do have the link put it around your front idler and unbolt it keeping tracks close by---by blocking or chaining. Pull your idler out and rebuild it. Contact me if you need anything else. Good luck.