New to me JD 650H LGP

[Mallard]

Recently purchased a JD 650H LGP from a friend that is retiring. The Dozer has 4900 hours so hopefully it still has some life in it. I shouldn't put to many hours a year on it. my plans for it are to establish and maintain fire lanes around pine tree tracks after they have been logged. 4-5 years from now plan to clear off about 5 acres and use this after the stumps are pulled out.

It does have a few problems that I intend to work on to get it back to 100%, both are gauge related.

1. the transmission oil pressure gauge stays pegged out, he said it had been that way for a while. what route should I take in diagnosing this?

2. the fuel level gauges bounces around while driving, again what route should i take to fix this?

also I don't see any signs of current oil leaks however I would like to completely clean everything up on it so I can see any leaks as they start. Is there anything wrong with removing the engine panels, opening the side access doors (door for batteries, and door for hydraulic filter) and the rear access panel. then removing the belly pans and spraying everything with simple green or purple power and then pressure washing everything out to remove any dirt and oil. I know not to spray the intake and keep it off the radiator and electrical connections and any soft hoses. is there anything else to avoid?

thanks for all the help, I've spent the last month reading through old post trying to learn what I can, this is my first dozer to buy so want to take care of it. any other advice is always appreciated. thanks.

 

[Welder Dave]

You may have a bad sending unit on the trans. oil presssure gauge. Best to check with another gauge. How much fuel is in it? With a low amount the gauge could jump around easier. Clean the electrical connections and see if it improves. It could the sending unit too. Sometimes they can be cleaned.l Should be OK to wash but stay away from electrical as best you can. After washing I start the machine and let it get up to operating temp. to dry everything out. It should be in pretty good shape with only 4900 hours. Has the undercarriage been replaced? It's around the hours the undercarriage is either ready for replacement or was replaced fairly recently.

 

[Mallard]

You may have a bad sending unit on the trans. oil presssure gauge. Best to check with another gauge. How much fuel is in it? With a low amount the gauge could jump around easier. Clean the electrical connections and see if it improves. It could the sending unit too. Sometimes they can be cleaned.l Should be OK to wash but stay away from electrical as best you can. After washing I start the machine and let it get up to operating temp. to dry everything out. It should be in pretty good shape with only 4900 hours. Has the undercarriage been replaced? It's around the hours the undercarriage is either ready for replacement or was replaced fairly recently.

Thanks Dave, i'll answer one by one

Looking at the Deere parts diagram it appears the trans oil pressure gauge has a hydraulic hose attached to it so I assume it is reading the pressure through that hose. when looking at the parts I believe AT360871 is the correct part. the picture they show looks different but might just be the wrong image or was updated.

not exactly sure on the level, when delivered it was full and the gauge stayed pegged on full. I have run it lightly for 3-4 hours so would guess 3/4 full now.

I will check the electrical connections this weekend.

thanks for the help with the washing, hope to get it cleaned up before it gets to cold out.

complete undercarriage was done 3-500 hours ago from memory, that should last me the life of the machine.



one other question. the exhaust pipe goes straight up right now and has a coffee can to put on when not in use. to help idiot proof this I would like to either get an angled pipe to 90 degrees or put a rain cap on it. the machine will be used some in the woods, any preference on which way to go?

Thanks again for the help, I'll take a look at everything this weekend.

 

[Welder Dave]

Could be a bad gauge if it's direct reading without a sending unit. Still best to check with a known good gauge or maybe just replace it. I'd just put a rain cap on it. That's what I did on my Cat. There is a drain hole in the muffler but why take a chance. The fuel gauge could be faulty but as long as it gives you an idea when it's low is the most important. Don't drive at top speed and it should last you a long time. Sounds like a great dozer!

 

[Mallard]

Thanks Dave, I'll report back what I find.

couple other questions I have, I can measure each component of the undercarriage right now to have reference numbers but where can I find the new dimensions and also the minimum dimensions so I can track how it is wearing?

also how can I determine when it is time to replace the cutting edges?

thanks again for all the help.

 

[Simon C]

When the cutting edge starts to be getting close to the moldboard, it has done its work and needs to be replaced. Dont run until the base starts wearing out as some do.
Simon C

 

[Shimmy1]

also how can I determine when it is time to replace the cutting edges?

Best way is like Simon said, monitor the bottom of your blade behind the cutting edge. When the rust starts to get worn off, it's time. Slightly shiny is ok, but if you've ran the edge long enough that the bottom is as shiny as the edge itself, you've ran too long.

Sidenote. If you are a back-dragger, then you may get the bottom shiny before the edge is done.

 

[masterwelder]

I’m a big fan of steam cleaning initially.
I disconnect the batteries, drop pans and if necessary position the machine to aid in flushing and draining of water and debris. A lot of times it helpful to scrape away grease and caked on grime, dirt, branches, old rags, coffee cups ect. before washing. It will help from you wearing it.

I steam at 240 degrees “wet steam”. Melts most grease and removes stickers. My pressure is at 2500. It will carve into rubber and plastic and remove paint. Only what you aim at comes clean. On a real dirty piece two washes may be needed. The second wash is to get any an areas missed the first time and to clean up grease that gets splattered around from being liquified and blasted.

After that I’ll grab WD40 to wipe up any stubborn grease that my be left.

I don’t need to use any additional cleaners, not that I’m against them, its just not needed in most of my experiences.

Rubbing compound can sometimes make a 30 year old machine look many years newer if it’s just faded from the sun.

All of the above is hard and nasty work. Resisting the force from the pressure washer for a couple of hours works all muscles. You will feel it. You will get soaked and dirty. If you don’t your doing it wrong.

All in all it’s worth it. Lets you stay on top of any leaks and is supper helpful when you have to do repairs.

And most of all it can help prevent loosing a machine in the event of a fire. Layers of grease and oil coated with sticks, leaves rags ect once ignited cant be put out with a truckload of fire extinguishers.

 

[Mallard]

Just wanted to update this thread, I finally got around to installing the new fuel sender and transmission pressure gauge and now both read correctly.

Still have to pressure wash it and hopefully find my 1/4” drive bit adapter I dropped when taking out the screws for the fuel sender!

Thanks again for all of the help, you made this easy!

 

[JBrady]

I would definitely drop the belly pan to clean it out if it hasn't been done so recently. Just be careful, they are heavy all by themselves, but if you have 150 extra pounds of dirt and grime, they are really heavy. I found an extra key and a snap on screwdriver when I did it for the first time on my JD550G.

 

[Mallard]

It looks like there are 3 smaller pans underneath, probably 12” square, is this all I need to remove to clean out the bottom?

 

[JBrady]

I am not familiar with your dozer, but usually the small plates are there for oil changes or access to something else, I am talking about the whole plate, usually from frame rail to frame rail. Mine is something like 3' x 4'.I used some ratchet straps to hold the plate in place while I removed all the bolts and then lowered it down with a floor jack and some cribbing. It was a rather nasty job because of all the crud that was trapped in there.