New owner of a John Deere 410G looking to add front hydraulics and quick attach.

[Kiamikapusher]

While not in my possession I agreed to buy a 2003 JD 410G. Now the fun of learning about the machine and equipping it begins. Might you have experience with adding front auxiliary hydraulics or a quick attach system? I am hoping I can add Grapple Forks and a Brush Cutter. Not sure what style of quick attach would be best. This is for use on a farm so taking extra time for changing this over is not a big issue. The bigger issue--as with most farmers--is keeping the cost reasonable. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[JL Sargent]

Probably gonna need a serial number to get started. I can tell you that adding aux hydraulics to that machine with JD parts is NOT gonna be cheap!

 

[Tags]

Probably gonna need a serial number to get started. I can tell you that adding aux hydraulics to that machine with JD parts is NOT gonna be cheap!

Not only will it not be cheap but I’m fairly certain it won’t have enough flow to effectively run a brush hog, I could be wrong on that though. Any chance it has auxiliary plumbing on the backhoe?

 

[Kiamikapusher]

Not only will it not be cheap but I’m fairly certain it won’t have enough flow to effectively run a brush hog, I could be wrong on that though. Any chance it has auxiliary plumbing on the backhoe?

It has auxiliary hydraulics on the rear. I'm not sure if it's one way or two way but likely one way as it has a foot thingy to run a hammer. The specs indicate the flow is 43 GPM and 3600 PSI which seem ample.

 

[Kiamikapusher]

Probably gonna need a serial number to get started. I can tell you that adding aux hydraulics to that machine with JD parts is NOT gonna be cheap!

I appreciate the feedback, the SN is T0410GX917665. Is there a site I can input this into and receive info about the original equipment? I'm not opposed to using aftermarket parts if it make a difference as the unit is already 20 years old.

 

[Diesel Dave]

Per the sn #, the Deere option to provide loader auxiliaries is to swap out the complete loader/ stabilizer control valve for a complete loader / stabilizer valve that has a third spool. A linkage control kit is also required to operate the spool.
You might as well buy or build a loader quick coupler that picks up Deere OEM coupler spec attachments so you have a lot of options moving forward.

 

[Kiamikapusher]

Thank you Diesel Dave. As JL Sargent mentioned, that sounds expensive! Perhaps I'll stick with the OEM bucket, go low tech. and buy clamp-on forks to lift logs. As for the bush hog, I guess it's a future attachment for a future tractor...

I think my neighbour paid over 7K (Canadian) to add a quick coupler on his 410J.

 

[Kiamikapusher]

Per the sn #, the Deere option to provide loader auxiliaries is to swap out the complete loader/ stabilizer control valve for a complete loader / stabilizer valve that has a third spool. A linkage control kit is also required to operate the spool.
You might as well buy or build a loader quick coupler that picks up Deere OEM coupler spec attachments so you have a lot of options moving forward.

Perhaps you can offer some advice Diesel Dave. I have been inputting my SN into various web sites for JD parts, including the John Deere parts website. Unfortunately these sites all indicate my SN is invalid. Am I missing something?

 

[Diesel Dave]

Just for giggles ,I tried your machine sn # at the Deere engine sn# lookup site and came up empty as well. I thought the serial number site cutoff was units built before year 2000 but apparently that’s not the case.
It’s not a big deal, most of the 410G machine build options are fairly easy for the customer to identify. Are you able to find the engine serial number. It should be on the right side of the engine block near the fuel transfer pump.
With your machine sn# and engine sn # , parts lookup will not be an issue.

 

[Kiamikapusher]

Just for giggles ,I tried your machine sn # at the Deere engine sn# lookup site and came up empty as well. I thought the serial number site cutoff was units built before year 2000 but apparently that’s not the case.
It’s not a big deal, most of the 410G machine build options are fairly easy for the customer to identify. Are you able to find the engine serial number. It should be on the right side of the engine block near the fuel transfer pump.
With your machine sn# and engine sn # , parts lookup will not be an issue.

So I had an error in my SN, it is T0410GX917565. Now the JD website identifies it as a PC2756. I will turn to the engine and other SNs once it's delivered. I'm currious to discover where the engine was fabricated. Thank you.

 

[Diesel Dave]

Now we are getting somewhere
PC2756 is the Deere parts catalog number for a 410G.
Per the Deere machine sn to engine sn lookup site , your machine left the factory with engine serial PE4045T275292 , engine model 4045TT082 .
The “PE“ in the engine sn # indicates the engine was manufactured in Torreon Mexico.

 

[Kiamikapusher]

FASC error code: Spent my first day learning the controls and getting to know the machine. I noticed FASC on the on screen a couple of times. Any suggestions on how to decode and touble shoot? I looked quickly at the service manual but did not see any code charts. Thanks in advance for any advice, the machine is a bit daunting for a rookie.

 

[CM1995]

Thank you Diesel Dave. As JL Sargent mentioned, that sounds expensive! Perhaps I'll stick with the OEM bucket, go low tech. and buy clamp-on forks to lift logs. As for the bush hog, I guess it's a future attachment for a future tractor...

I think my neighbour paid over 7K (Canadian) to add a quick coupler on his 410J.

Just go with hang on forks, they suck but better than not having forks.

I have a set for our 953C trackloader and they suck but I can pick and move 18" RCP when I have to.

 

[Diesel Dave]

I believe the code is actually FA5C .
It is referring to the seat position switches and or wiring.
Is the code intermittent or only in certain seat positions meaning facing forward , rearward or passing in between .

 

[Delmer]

As far as adding to the hydraulics cheaply and easily. I'll guess a splitter valve on the loader bucket tilt will be the easiest. If it was a 410D or older, you could have tapped into the closed center system ahead of the loader valve. I doubt that will work with this more complicated hydraulic system. No idea on the brush cutter either.

 

[Kiamikapusher]

I believe the code is actually FA5C .
It is referring to the seat position switches and or wiring.
Is the code intermittent or only in certain seat positions meaning facing forward , rearward or passing in between .

OK Thanks, it seems to be when I turn my seat to the back so perhaps the switch is not functioning for dig. I will try to troubleshoot my wiring.

 

[Kiamikapusher]

As far as adding to the hydraulics cheaply and easily. I'll guess a splitter valve on the loader bucket tilt will be the easiest. If it was a 410D or older, you could have tapped into the closed center system ahead of the loader valve. I doubt that will work with this more complicated hydraulic system. No idea on the brush cutter either.

I never thought of that for the front. Not a bad idea. I hope to add a grapple onto my bucket and forks.

 

[Kiamikapusher]

Just go with hang on forks, they suck but better than not having forks.

I have a set for our 953C trackloader and they suck but I can pick and move 18" RCP when I have to.

RCP??? So I decided to weld 4 receiver tubes in the bucket to receive some 2X2 tubes of various lengths, depending upon the application. Will do the welding tomorrow and send some pics. BTW, any advice for welding. I will disconnect the batteries but should I unplug any components?

 

[Delmer]

Yes, disconnect the ground, and clamp the ground to the positive cable to drain any voltage. If you have two batteries, obviously be very careful to have both grounds disconnected from negative before clamping them to the positive, or remove all the battery cables. I don't turn everything on, but that would logically drain the wiring harness better, but I don't have any source that suggests that. On the JD everything would go through a relay that would be open so turning on the ignition would do very little.

Hopefully you have a DC welder. Attach the ground to the bucket you're welding on, should be fine.

 

[Kiamikapusher]

Yes, disconnect the ground, and clamp the ground to the positive cable to drain any voltage. If you have two batteries, obviously be very careful to have both grounds disconnected from negative before clamping them to the positive, or remove all the battery cables. I don't turn everything on, but that would logically drain the wiring harness better, but I don't have any source that suggests that. On the JD everything would go through a relay that would be open so turning on the ignition would do very little.

Hopefully you have a DC welder. Attach the ground to the bucket you're welding on, should be fine.

I appreciate the advice as I never thought about draining the voltage by connecting the negative and positive wires... I'm also advised to disconnect the Engine Control harness--if I have one--to avoid any surge to the processor. Any experience with that?