flyballgrader
Member
U there any motor graders still on this thread? These postings are OLD!
-
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Motor-Grading Techniques
- Thread starter Clayton M
- Start date
I AM IRONMAN
Well-Known Member
Golden Oldies!
They may be old Flyball, but they are very good and informative posts! I've learned a lot from them.
They may be old Flyball, but they are very good and informative posts! I've learned a lot from them.
flyballgrader
Member
140They may be old Flyball, but they are very good and informative posts! I've learned a lot from them.
Ironman-appreciate the comments.. was interested in feed back concerning the GPS system for 140H motor grader.. wasnt sure if Id get feedback on this thread or should post to another site..
It looks like the site is monitored so here goes.
Been a grader for over thirty-five years have trimble laser system on board grader.; jobs are requesting upgrade to GPS.. (The trend I guess) went to CAT/ Sitech
quoted 45000.00 for the complete system Refurbished/no installation (with (approx. installation 55-65K). The system isnt new technology thought there might be another contact available other than Cat dealer/Sitech with a better rate. Even if I was to purchase just the mount sytem.. The GPS computer rental is 4500/month. ideas ?
I AM IRONMAN
Well-Known Member
Flyball, just a couple of questions. How big of a job is it? What kind of job? Highway, parking lot, golf course, or what?
Do you want to just rent the system or buy? In my opinion, don't go with a refurbished, if your buying, get brand new, latest electronics. In the price make sure it is installed and the installer is knowledgeable. He should provide at least two days training and make sure it is working correctly. This guy is really good and has owned and operated all of the systems for about 15 years, he installs, trains, and makes sure things are working correctly. Chris at 307-277-4925. If he can't install it where you are, he will know who can.
When these systems are done correctly you can count on your grading time will be less than 1/2 of what the other 35 year operators without Topcon are doing. Here is my suggested model. Topcon’s 3D-MC2 system. Very fast and accurate! For the best motor grader for the job, I would suggest the Deere 872G or 772G. Six wheel drive and tall moldboard, it’ll lay out basecoarse so smooth, you won’t believe it!
Dozer http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pQpJ6e2tTjk
Grader http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vt9gSe7TocE&feature=related
Cat Blade
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l8z3q_BYFlk&NR=1
Ironman
Do you want to just rent the system or buy? In my opinion, don't go with a refurbished, if your buying, get brand new, latest electronics. In the price make sure it is installed and the installer is knowledgeable. He should provide at least two days training and make sure it is working correctly. This guy is really good and has owned and operated all of the systems for about 15 years, he installs, trains, and makes sure things are working correctly. Chris at 307-277-4925. If he can't install it where you are, he will know who can.
When these systems are done correctly you can count on your grading time will be less than 1/2 of what the other 35 year operators without Topcon are doing. Here is my suggested model. Topcon’s 3D-MC2 system. Very fast and accurate! For the best motor grader for the job, I would suggest the Deere 872G or 772G. Six wheel drive and tall moldboard, it’ll lay out basecoarse so smooth, you won’t believe it!
Dozer http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pQpJ6e2tTjk
Grader http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vt9gSe7TocE&feature=related
Cat Blade
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l8z3q_BYFlk&NR=1
Ironman
FnS
Tyler, Thanks for the kind words. I always try to share some of what I have picked up along the way.
I agree with you on the moldboard all the way back, though it is good to roll it forward some in hard to cut material. It is just more versatile rolled back. Carries more, doesn't unload the weight off of the tires, and actually pushes some weight down on them, plus there is less chance of damaging the slide rails or bottom pivot point in the event you should find a burried rock, pipe, old foundation, etc.
I have picked up some useful tricks from the other pros on here over the years. One is the reversed blade. I had not used it until recently, when I found myself cutting out a tight corner in a parking lot. The hard packed clay was tough to cut, and was slippery enough that the front end would not pull around the turn with more than a tiny little cut in front of the blade. I thought about it for a little bit, then tried turning the blade around. The others at the site looked at me like I lost my marbles. I found that with the drivers pulling the blade around the corner, I could take a full cut with the blade, and had it cut down to grade in no time. Then I put things back around the normal way to complete. I figure I saved nearly an hour compared to the trouble I had been having, not to mention the reduced stress on myself and the machine. The hardest part was remembering that the slide went the wrong way when working the lever. I said a thanks to Randy Kreig after I was finished.
Meanwhile, I look forward to learning more, and sharing more with all here.
Have a great day
Tyler, Thanks for the kind words. I always try to share some of what I have picked up along the way.
I agree with you on the moldboard all the way back, though it is good to roll it forward some in hard to cut material. It is just more versatile rolled back. Carries more, doesn't unload the weight off of the tires, and actually pushes some weight down on them, plus there is less chance of damaging the slide rails or bottom pivot point in the event you should find a burried rock, pipe, old foundation, etc.
I have picked up some useful tricks from the other pros on here over the years. One is the reversed blade. I had not used it until recently, when I found myself cutting out a tight corner in a parking lot. The hard packed clay was tough to cut, and was slippery enough that the front end would not pull around the turn with more than a tiny little cut in front of the blade. I thought about it for a little bit, then tried turning the blade around. The others at the site looked at me like I lost my marbles. I found that with the drivers pulling the blade around the corner, I could take a full cut with the blade, and had it cut down to grade in no time. Then I put things back around the normal way to complete. I figure I saved nearly an hour compared to the trouble I had been having, not to mention the reduced stress on myself and the machine. The hardest part was remembering that the slide went the wrong way when working the lever. I said a thanks to Randy Kreig after I was finished.
Meanwhile, I look forward to learning more, and sharing more with all here.
Have a great day
FnS
Member
Jerry,
Yesir, at 32, I lack experience and obviously have never been in a situation where I needed to do the reverse board thing. Or, just always been spoiled with a Deer or case skip/gannon to catch my pad corners n stuff. I was just trying to be a funnyguy on my post. haha. Sometimes I need a breathalizer for my computer! haha
Yes I do agree having it rolled forward just a taste helps in the hard compacted stuff.
Another thing I like to do is grease the front end and hitch while someone turns and arcs the machine for me. I think it ensures an even amount of grease in the joints. I like to call it the $50,000 tube of grease. Because just like yesterday, while doing a 21acre dirt job here in Odessa, my scraper hand tossed the paddles off! Due to an idler roller coming apart. I asked him if he had greased them at all this week and he responded, "I didn't know those zerts were there." (He must of been thinking about unicorns during our walk through on this machine) So, after lost time and parts, today I got to do the glorious job of putting them back on track. After 9hrs, a trackhoe, a backhoe, blade and about 7 chains w/ binders at 10 different positions, we got it back on track and were able to move dirt for 4hrs into darkness. (can't get a mechanic on short notice in this boomin' industry) So, now I know how to put the flights back on a scraper! The redneck way I guess! Now I gotta play catch-up! Again! Like 75hrs a week isn't enough, this looks like 85-90 this week. All do to not greasing.
-TP
Yesir, at 32, I lack experience and obviously have never been in a situation where I needed to do the reverse board thing. Or, just always been spoiled with a Deer or case skip/gannon to catch my pad corners n stuff. I was just trying to be a funnyguy on my post. haha. Sometimes I need a breathalizer for my computer! haha
Yes I do agree having it rolled forward just a taste helps in the hard compacted stuff.
Another thing I like to do is grease the front end and hitch while someone turns and arcs the machine for me. I think it ensures an even amount of grease in the joints. I like to call it the $50,000 tube of grease. Because just like yesterday, while doing a 21acre dirt job here in Odessa, my scraper hand tossed the paddles off! Due to an idler roller coming apart. I asked him if he had greased them at all this week and he responded, "I didn't know those zerts were there." (He must of been thinking about unicorns during our walk through on this machine) So, after lost time and parts, today I got to do the glorious job of putting them back on track. After 9hrs, a trackhoe, a backhoe, blade and about 7 chains w/ binders at 10 different positions, we got it back on track and were able to move dirt for 4hrs into darkness. (can't get a mechanic on short notice in this boomin' industry) So, now I know how to put the flights back on a scraper! The redneck way I guess! Now I gotta play catch-up! Again! Like 75hrs a week isn't enough, this looks like 85-90 this week. All do to not greasing.
-TP
FnS
Member
flyballgrader,
All I got is: Topcom system5 is imo the best. I believe its lazer and gps. But, I may be wrong. I never used the gps. And the gain dial being adjusted correctly helps with the machine overcompensating itself.
All I got is: Topcom system5 is imo the best. I believe its lazer and gps. But, I may be wrong. I never used the gps. And the gain dial being adjusted correctly helps with the machine overcompensating itself.
rm guy
Member
The only thing i know is that the only ones who don,t know how to run a grader are the ones getting paid to do it and the professionals are in the coffee shop
FnS
Member
A professional is a beginner who never quit!
Tvan
Well-Known Member
If you have a plan, you can get a lot done without all the trick stuff, but in todays world you better get to know GPS and total station, becaus I don't care how good you are it will make you faster and better and that's Money in the Bank for who ever you are working for, And that's my story and i'm sticking to it!!!
This has been a fantastic thread, thanks to all who have contributed. This forum is relatively new to me, and addicting. I found this forum when I was looking for undercarriage alternatives for a 287C. The other night I started reading this thread and a couple others, and before I new it it was 4:00 A.M.. What impresses me most besides the wealth of knowledge is the attitude that almost everyone has in their responses; everyone is actually trying to be helpful and informative, sometimes with a good sense of humor added in just for fun.
I wish our government could work with the absence of animosity found here. Thank you all!
I wish our government could work with the absence of animosity found here. Thank you all!
Cat 140M AWD
Senior Member
Well guess I will throw out some things I've learned I do alot of gravel road maitence in my area so that's what my tips will be about. I started running a blade for my dad who does twp work he's ben in the blade seat for 42 yrs now and amazing how much knowledge you can pick up from him. The things I've noticed to keeping gravel roads is you got to establish a crown I like to have about a 5% crown on a 24ft road base. Another thing with gravel roads if you get wash boards and pot holes in your road bed you normally don't have enough crown in your road. I've found the best way to remove washboards and potholes is to cut them all the way out once you got the whole road bed cut out I will pick up the windrow of gravel I cut out I try to keep my left or right front tire on the center of the crown and put the materal I'm pulling in right on top very crucial to not dump on other side of crown and as also very crucial is to drive straight ik Randy has said this before you change your wheel you change your crosslope. I guess that's all I got for now maybe someone will get some pointers out f this.
Tvan
Well-Known Member
A question for Cat 140M AWD
why are you laying your windrow on top of your crown, does it not make it difficult to bring material of your crown to shoulder, if your material is on top of crown how are you holding line, just curious.
I always run my tire on top of crown but the heel of my blade kicks material over crown so when I turn around material isn't stacked on crown you have a good wheel mark, and this gives your roller a chance to roll right up to your crown, I realize on gravel road maint you don't use a roller most of the time, like I say just curious, have a Good Day
why are you laying your windrow on top of your crown, does it not make it difficult to bring material of your crown to shoulder, if your material is on top of crown how are you holding line, just curious.
I always run my tire on top of crown but the heel of my blade kicks material over crown so when I turn around material isn't stacked on crown you have a good wheel mark, and this gives your roller a chance to roll right up to your crown, I realize on gravel road maint you don't use a roller most of the time, like I say just curious, have a Good Day
Cat 140M AWD
Senior Member
I can explain that better for ya when I pull the windrow in and set it in the middle of the road on top of the crown in other words once I get it there I blade the windrow off the center to the othere shoulder of the road when blading it off I run the center of the machine down the crown leaving an inch or more of gravel on the crown and the rest gets put in a windrow along side of the road to pick up next time it would be easier if I could post pictures to show you what I do but it's snowing here right now think my road blading days might be done till nex spring if I do get back out I will make suer to take some and post them here
Tvan
Well-Known Member
You have a system that works for you
sound like you have a system that works my friend, working those gravel roads quite a challegene, it sure make a difference if no other people are maintaining what you have established. good luck with the cold and snow, just cold here so far but i'm sure the snow is coming.
sound like you have a system that works my friend, working those gravel roads quite a challegene, it sure make a difference if no other people are maintaining what you have established. good luck with the cold and snow, just cold here so far but i'm sure the snow is coming.
I, like Tvan, prefer to take the material across the crown far enough to be able to pull it down the other side without leaving excess off of the toe. I prefer to have the blade articulated such that both side rear wheels are on the same side of the crown. This helps avoid the inconsistency in grade of running on the material beyond the crown, and having to chase the grade. The high side front steering axle wheel will be slightly over the crown. My next pass (on the other side of the crown) will not be articulated, again to keep all drive axles on the same side of the crown. The toe of the blade will actually be off of the surface a bit. When I have a roller chasing me, I insist that the roller NEVER run straight down the center of the road, flattening out the crown, but rather workup to the crown always keeping most of the roller width on one side or the other. This is often difficult for a person who is not accustomed to feeling the slope, so I ask them to use my rear tire tracks as a guide.
I am not the best blade operator, so I have to use little methods like this to get good results. As Tvan also mentioned, if you have a method that works for you that's great. We all go about things a bit different!
I am not the best blade operator, so I have to use little methods like this to get good results. As Tvan also mentioned, if you have a method that works for you that's great. We all go about things a bit different!
Cat 140M AWD
Senior Member
Yes that's for suer everyone has there own way the thing that annoys me the most Is if someone else is blading the road you do makes a big headache for both operators I'm lucky enough I'm the only one who maintains the roads in the summer so they all stay the way I want them to be Looks like I'm going to be out plowing snow tomorrow got 4 inches of snow on the ground here wind is blowing hard to probably have some nice drifts the bust in the morning
CAT140H
Well-Known Member
Good luck plowing. Do use a plow? I use a One Way plow, it works pretty good.
Cat 140M AWD
Senior Member
Yes I do I use a v plow and and a wing hopefully I don't need the v plow tomorrow might carry it with me just in case I need it I will try to take some pics while I'm out
I dump the windrow over the crown also on the first pass. We have rock ledges in a lot of our hills so over time we get some fist sized rocks in the road. If I don't get the windrow over the crown some of those rocks end up in the center of the road. The operator on a road that I drive has a lot of crown in his road and leaves materal in the road. I have several times crossed over the crown with our car and had materal hit under the car. That could be bad if it was a rock.