Perhaps with a bore scope?
Perhaps with a bore scope?
Unfortunately no--But I have a feeling it's going to be slid back and down anyway. Because these
angle spring clutches rarely have issues when new, unless it is a diaphragm style pressure plate.
One other possibility is pilot bearing suffered on installation or was it changed? I only install trans/
clutch as a unit as shown in photo, only thing to line up is pilot bearing dowel then slowly install
clutch cover/pressure plate bolts through bell housing inspection cover hole, rotating engine until
all bolts are started then running them down a little at a time till cover is seated to flywheel then
rotate again torquing to 55 lb ft.
*
The hubs on each driven plate are slightly longer on one side on both, if flipped it can cause hubs
to touch causing a slight lock up {both are not floating on input shaft} plus it throughs off the
area of paddle contact to intermediate plate. I always mark direction of intermediate plate with
a arrow pointing towards pressure plate too, by the book those are installed one way too. As the clutch
bolts are drawn down and pressure plate mates to flywheel the two wood blocks between throwout
bearing and pressure plate usually just fall out with a properly machined flywheel, which is a good
sign, because throwout bearing to clutch brake distance is real close on final bolt torquing. The other
thing is flywheel mounting bolt head distance to center spring damper of front driven plate, those
cannot touch, if flywheel has been machined too much that changes that distance and can cause
same effect.
*
I haven't installed a transmission with clutch already bolted to flywheel since early 80's. Pushing
a input shaft through the two driven plates with all the angles involved during installation can
damage drive hubs. 15.5 clutches can be installed that way, 14.0 clutches cannot. Hopefully you
find something simple so as not to have to remove.
