JD 300b swing cylinder removal

[Mallard]

I've got most of my work done now with the backhoe I borrowed. When I picked it up the swig cylinder was leaking. Now before I take it back I would like to fix it for him. I've learned people don't have problem loaning stuff out when it comes back in better shape.

I have a customer that will rebuild and re chrome if needed the cylinder if I take it to them. Best I remember the cylinder pivots in the middle and connects to the boom on one end. What is the best way to remove the cylinder? Thanks for all the help!

 

[Delmer]

Leave the cylinder and hoses in place. Take the rod and gland out, bring it to the friend. Pay him to put it back in if you're not comfortable with it after you see how it comes out.

 

[Mallard]

Thanks for the help. What do I need to take the cylinder end off ( sledge hammer, snap ring pliers, pick, punch)? And does the pin come out from the top or bottom or either?

 

[Delmer]

Here's a thread that should be very similar to your set up. You'll have to take a look and make sure the cylinder style is the same.

https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/showthread.php?38299-Getting-the-Backhoe-cylinder-off

There is probably a pin in the side of the cylinder to hold the threads on the gland, make sure that's out before trying to loosen the gland. If you have the same style of gland, take some measurements, I'll send you that tool in #5 if you want it. You could make one better pretty easily too, that was just junk I had around. There's a bolt through the pin and it drops out when the bolt is out, might need to crowbar the rod eye around a little to take the pressure off. Then you move the cylinder rod away from the ears and put your improvised tool over the rod and engage the four slots in the gland, attach with ratchet straps around the back of the cylinder. Apply gorilla and hope for the best.

 

[Mallard]

Thanks for the help. I'll take a look at it while I'm down there this weekend and see what it looks like.

 

[Mallard]

Well I went down today to mess with the backhoe. I got the pin out no problem. The end of the cylinder was chewed up pretty good from previous disassembly with a pipe wrench. I wasn't able to get my 48" pipe wrench on the end of the cylinder now. I started to completely remove the cylinder. How does the cylinder come out? I took the 2 bolts and cover off the top and below the cylinder but that's where I'm stumped. The round cap below the cover has a threaded hole in the center. Am I supposed to run a bolt down that hole and it will raise it out? Thanks for the help

 

[Delmer]

Not very easily, the cylinder is buried and the hoses are a pain, and those mounts for the trunnion have to come out to get the cylinder out. It looks like there are two different cylinder mount styles on a 300B, I'm not familiar with either one. You'll need to go to JDparts and look up the parts diagram to see what they look like and figure out how the trunnion is mounted on the style you have.

I still say leave the cylinder alone and remove the gland and rod. You'll need a better tool than a pipe wrench to get it off, it's got those slots cut in the gland for reason, use them.

 

[Mallard]

The end cap was already torn up pretty good. I could probably take a grinder and make a few new notches and a tool to fit if needed. I'll be back down tomorrow and get a few pictures

 

[Mallard]

I went back today and grabbed a few pictures.

I have taken numbers 22 and 23 off. 24 is a tapered bushing that has a threaded hole in the center. It looks like if I get 24 out the pin should come out allowing the cylinder to be removed. I just don't know how to get the bushing out?

 

[mikebramel]

Cut a new groove with a carbide burr, rotate it off with a chisel/drift/punch and a solid hammer

 

[Delmer]

I suppose the threaded hole must be for a puller.

I'm gonna guess the dinged up gland is from the previous ATTEMPTED disassembly, judging from the condition of the gland and the seal chunks.

You can weld a plate onto that gland to get it to turn.

 

[Mallard]

Thanks for both of the ideas. Do you think a punch would be able to get enough force to spin it loose?

Delmer, with your welding idea, what do you think about cutting a 2" nut in half then welding it onto the gland so I can get a good wrench on it?

Also last idea, what about drilling 5/16 holes in the face so I can get an adjustable gland wrench on it?

All seem easier at this point than removing the cylinder

 

[mikebramel]

Don't waste your time with the pin wrench. If the head is that well on there, it will just egg the holes out.

You can take a thick plate drill a hole through the center the size of the threaded rod you will need for the center of the pin. Space that out with a few pieces. A nut. Thrust bearing would be nice. And a large hammer to shock it when the pull doesn't start or starts to stop. Looks like 1/2" or 5/8"?

I think you best bet is going to be cutting a new groove in the head. You can use an air hammer with a long stroke.

You could try welding it but the ones that have low clearance to the rod are made of cast. Can't say I have any experience with a John Deere backhoe of this vintage

 

[Delmer]

I think you need something along the lines of the tool pic I posted in the other thread linked above. That junk driveshaft fit's over the end of the rod, the rod give it some support and it turns with a bar through the u joint yoke. You can easily improve on that tool, that's just the junk that was handy. A thick wall pipe of the right diameter to go over the outside of that gland with teeth going into the four notches is the idea, or add two of four more notches in the gland to get some grip. The outside diameter of the pipe would have to burst for those teeth to come out of the notches, or pop out the back which you can prevent with ratchet straps.

Are you sure there's not a set screw through the outside of the cylinder into those threads?

 

[Rusty Sailor]

Has anyone had luck with this same problem? Ive got a similar issue with a swing cylinder on a jd401c and want to remove the cylinder to bring it to a shop for gland/rod guide removal as the plate is mashed up.

Im right where mallard was when he removed 22 and 23, same female threaded hole inside. Any ideas gentleman?

 

[mg2361]

Welcome to HEF Rusty! Use a slide hammer threaded into the hole or sometimes smacking the frame next to the pin/bushing will start to raise/loosen the tapered bushing. That tapered bushing has a split in it so when the retaining plate is removed it should start to lift with gentle persuasion.

 

[Rusty Sailor]

Thank you for the prompt reply. I found in the Tech. Manual a bolt driving technique for removing the tapered bushing and pin, so I was going to try that today. Slide hammer seems like a sound idea as well, but dont have one on hand. Once again MG, thank you for the info and the kind welcome