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Frame rust

Truck Shop

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2015
Messages
25,357
Location
WWW.
Fastest I've changed a single rail by myself was 16 hours, which included drilling
oem blank rail. That was in 2003 on a 2001 379 I bought with a bad right rail,
involved in accident where one of the steel coils it was hauling broke loose and
crushed back of sleeper. OEM rail from Pete was $3,400 at that time from Pete
for a single rail 28' long not tapered at after frame and not trimmed/cutout on
top lip for engine bay. Just doing a stretch job is intensive, like below.
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004.JPG001 (4).JPG002 (4).JPG003 (3).JPG
 

Acoals

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2019
Messages
1,849
Location
Wisconsin
Occupation
Jack of all trades/Master of none
Speaking of rust, same truck, different place; the floor pan in the cab is soft around the throttle pedal and doghouse area. I have everything torn out of the interior, and one way or another it is going to get rebuilt. I can't find any source for pre made sheet metal parts for Ford L series trucks. Before we start fabricating does anybody know if any sort of weld in panels are available? You can get sheet metal for pickups all day long, but I don't think anything is going to cross from the F series cab to the L series.
 

Acoals

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2019
Messages
1,849
Location
Wisconsin
Occupation
Jack of all trades/Master of none
If we are rolling like that I might as well just go full Mexico, skip the license plates and just get new floormats and a chrome skull shift knob.
And long pointy lug nut covers . . .
 

crane operator

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2009
Messages
10,231
Location
sw missouri
I saw a Pete a while back with a laminate wood floor.

But seriously, aside from finding a 30 year old rust free cab to steal floor repair pieces from, your going to be stuck fabbing your own. Cut squares and rectangles and weld the seams, or a good man with a pan or finger brake.
 

Acoals

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2019
Messages
1,849
Location
Wisconsin
Occupation
Jack of all trades/Master of none
I saw a Pete a while back with a laminate wood floor.

But seriously, aside from finding a 30 year old rust free cab to steal floor repair pieces from, your going to be stuck fabbing your own. Cut squares and rectangles and weld the seams, or a good man with a pan or finger brake.

That's pretty much what I am expecting, just thought maybe somebody knows about something out there . . .
 

smifwal

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 6, 2024
Messages
455
Location
kansas city
This is the signs that they used for flashing on my roof20210705_143932.jpgbut if you don't have enough licenses plates handy you could use sheet metal like you have one the plenum of your furnace, find a wholesale
place rather than home Depot way cheaper.

I have carpet in my cat and my mini, the stuff in my mini is $50/yard It was the cut off of the roll installed on a set of steps. It gets nasty I pull it out and use it as a template for the new piece. Felt back vinyl would be a good choice for the contours, LVP for your flat cab floors, laminate wouldn't be my first choice when water could be a factor, it will warp and delaminate
 

HarleyHappy

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2020
Messages
3,463
Location
So NH
Occupation
Welder/Mechanic
Trust me on this.
If you have a hole in your floor, it can really come in handy.
Drainage for ice and snow.
If you drop something, you won’t even have to open the door to pick it up.
If you get pulled over for open container, you can just pour it on the ground.
You can see the ground, to know when you drive off pavement.
If you have an exhaust leak, you can really hear it.
When your needing to take a leak, just hold it down.
The best, if you run out of gas, you can Fred Flinstone it back home.
I grew up plowing with a 62 +or- Scout. Dad had rigged up a keg for a gas tank. You could get stupid drunk and plow and if you needed to puke, from seeing the ground rushing by, back and forth, you just leaned over and heaved.
That thing was a piece of crap but it plowed better than the 9n, out in the cold and snow, had to replace the bungee cord holding the door closed once in a while and the manual wipers sucked.
 

Truck Shop

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2015
Messages
25,357
Location
WWW.
This was for sale Zero Rust, set of sticks, 8V-71 with heavy front axle on walking beam.
IIRC $2,000 no title. IIRC it only had 50,000 miles on it.
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00h0h_8y1aprwMeth_0CI0t2_1200x900.jpg
 

Willie B

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2016
Messages
5,013
Location
Mount Tabor VT
Occupation
Electrician
Trust me on this.
If you have a hole in your floor, it can really come in handy.
Drainage for ice and snow.
If you drop something, you won’t even have to open the door to pick it up.
If you get pulled over for open container, you can just pour it on the ground.
You can see the ground, to know when you drive off pavement.
If you have an exhaust leak, you can really hear it.
When your needing to take a leak, just hold it down.
The best, if you run out of gas, you can Fred Flinstone it back home.
I grew up plowing with a 62 +or- Scout. Dad had rigged up a keg for a gas tank. You could get stupid drunk and plow and if you needed to puke, from seeing the ground rushing by, back and forth, you just leaned over and heaved.
That thing was a piece of crap but it plowed better than the 9n, out in the cold and snow, had to replace the bungee cord holding the door closed once in a while and the manual wipers sucked.
Yes, I went from a 3 HP cheap snow blower at age 9, I cleared the neighborhood.
Built a wooden plow for a IH Farmall Cub at 12, thought I was in heaven!
Age 16, I put a plow on a 1965 Jeep CJ5.
Must have been about 27 when I put a Fisher plow on a 1976 Jeep Cherokee full sized. Used it until the frame was too rusty.
I've had numerous tractors with rudimentary snow plows.
Backhoe loader last 24 years.
 
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