Chris1113
Well-Known Member
Im not seeing one on the outside of itWhile we are talking about machine serial #’s .
Does the monitor controller have a part # on it ? It sits on the same shelf as the pvc and ec.
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View attachment 338118
Im not seeing one on the outside of itWhile we are talking about machine serial #’s .
Does the monitor controller have a part # on it ? It sits on the same shelf as the pvc and ec.
.
View attachment 338118
Yes, don’t install a higher amp one !Ok blown fuse need to find another 1 amp
I take that as ec code 1 and pvc code 28 .Alright its back to being slow. Hooked the wire up to the diag connector. Its blinking blink…pause…blink…blink… then blinks 8 times after
Codes for the hydraulics stallingI take that as ec code 1 and pvc code 28 .
Can you video that sequence just to help confirm ?
Thats what I got too. Weird… i let fridayparts know the situation with the two PVC model#’s. Ill probably hear back from them tomorrow. they asked for pictures of the PVC so hopefully they’ll find somethingFor “fast to stall“ video , I read codes 1, 22, 26, 28 .
For “hydraulics slow“ video , I read codes 1, 28 .
For “hydraulics normal “ video , I read codes 1, 22, 26, 28 .
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Per the manual , code 22 (abnormal pump control) is created only because code 26 is active.
Ok ill do those.With the DP and P sensor fault codes found , If I was going to crimp on some new wire terminals at the pvc connector I would focus on the DP sensor wires and the “P “ pressure sensor wires.
Where did you find the new terminals ?
Sounds like you're dealing with a possible issue in the hydraulic pump control system—maybe a faulty load-sensing valve or pump solenoid that's not adjusting flow correctly under load. The “shhhh” from the valve block could be internal leakage or a stuck spool. Also, check for any clogged filters or weak pilot pressure. Worth checking pump sensors or any electronic control issues too.I knows there is other threads for this same issue. Im opening this one for tracking what I’ve done to try to solve this issue. I appreciate any help.
Yesterday I experienced this issue intermittently. Normal then slow then normal again. I figured it was the throttle cable that was jury rigged because I revved the engine up as high as I could and then the hydraulics sped up again(to actual full speed)
Today, noticed the same issue…hydraulics were slow but this time nothing seemed to fix it.
Heres what happened today.
On Auto Idle:
1. Slow bucket curl in
2. Slow main boom up
3. Arm in and out seem slow
3. Track speed is slow as well
4. Swing speed is fine
5. Bucket out is fine
On other modes everything is slow.
Higher engine rpm does speed the hydraulics up but not by a lot.
It still builds pressure enough to dig a full bucket of dirt and lift as high as the boom can go. Its just slow.
Also noticed a “shhhhh” coming from the main valve block when no input is given on the controls. Can’t remember if this is normal. Ive only had the excavator for a week now.
One last thing, when the hydraulics were working fine yesterday, I noticed as more load was introduced to the hydraulics, the engine would work to supply more flow(or bog). Now it doesnt matter if I go to dig a stump, it seems to be only operating at a static flow rate. The hydraulic pump and engine don’t seem to be working in unison like before.
Correct. Ended up being within load sensing circuit but surprisingly PVC connector was loose causing intermittent connection loss with all sensors/power & ground.Sounds like you're dealing with a possible issue in the hydraulic pump control system—maybe a faulty load-sensing valve or pump solenoid that's not adjusting flow correctly under load. The “shhhh” from the valve block could be internal leakage or a stuck spool. Also, check for any clogged filters or weak pilot pressure. Worth checking pump sensors or any electronic control issues too.
Fridayparts said everything I sent them helped them confirm the PVCWith the DP and P sensor fault codes found , If I was going to crimp on some new wire terminals at the pvc connector I would focus on the DP sensor wires and the “P “ pressure sensor wires.
Where did you find the new terminals ?
@Chris1113 , Related to the Angle sensor and the P sensorLook at the right side plug. 3rd wire from the left looks to be green corrosion. One beside it does not look good either.
Simon C
Ok ill take a look. Just Fyi I was pushing some of the terminals in some with one of those hook tools@Chris1113 , Related to the Angle sensor and the P sensor

Thats not as bad as I thought it would be. I was thinking it would've been closer to 10kI did the UC on my 120-3 last summer. I was shocked at how reasonable the price was from the dealer.
(12) bottom rollers
(2) sprockets
(2) idlers
(2) chains
$5500 for everything and had it the next day. ITR brand
