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EX100-2 keeps blowing 1A fuse #5 - I'm stumped

007

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2016
Messages
282
Location
Australia
Unless i am missing something it is 100V .022uf Cap and fairly straight forward.
I would replace that before doing any further testing.
The new component should operate with no increase in temp what so ever.
The fact that your old one is heating is proof that current is passing through the faulty capacitor.
It can in some cases be RF causing this but i would gamble not in this case.
 

007

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2016
Messages
282
Location
Australia
Unless i am missing something it is 100V .022uf Cap and fairly straight forward.
I would replace that before doing any further testing.
The new component should operate with no increase in temp what so ever.
The fact that your old one is heating is proof that current is passing through the faulty capacitor.
It can in some cases be RF causing this but i would gamble not in this case.
 

Dayton

Active Member
Joined
Sep 24, 2022
Messages
28
Location
Canada
Unless i am missing something it is 100V .022uf Cap and fairly straight forward.
I would replace that before doing any further testing.
The new component should operate with no increase in temp what so ever.
The fact that your old one is heating is proof that current is passing through the faulty capacitor.
It can in some cases be RF causing this but i would gamble not in this case.

It wasn't burnt at all up until just now when I tried the bulb test you mentioned. I still had the 1 amp Inline fuse even though you said I didn't need it so I don't think anything else is damaged. I'll try to replace the capacitor tomorrow with a new one or my old boards and see if it stops blowing the fuse. The bulb test may have just exposed it so it allowed power through for longer enough to burn it up but not enough to pop the fuse.

The part I don't understand is during the bulb test sometimes the relay on the side (not sure if it was emergency or power) would shut the computer down until I turned the machine off and back on.
 

007

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2016
Messages
282
Location
Australia
I would not over think it to much.
Running on a bulb would see the EC on lower voltage which it might be struggling with holding the emergency relay in.
Running on a fuse or a bulb that capacitor should not have faulted so the bulb just gave you more time to test.
Cheers
 

Dayton

Active Member
Joined
Sep 24, 2022
Messages
28
Location
Canada
I would not over think it to much.
Running on a bulb would see the EC on lower voltage which it might be struggling with holding the emergency relay in.
Running on a fuse or a bulb that capacitor should not have faulted so the bulb just gave you more time to test.
Cheers

Thank you for your help sir I'll try with tomorrow and update with the new capacitor.
 

Dayton

Active Member
Joined
Sep 24, 2022
Messages
28
Location
Canada
I would not over think it to much.
Running on a bulb would see the EC on lower voltage which it might be struggling with holding the emergency relay in.
Running on a fuse or a bulb that capacitor should not have faulted so the bulb just gave you more time to test.
Cheers

Update: I just replaced the filter capacitor with an old one from the previous ECM and it's working now. The burnt one showed only 38 ohm resistance from the outside leg to the middle. The working one didn't show any connection. So the burnt one was allowing too much current through in turn popping the fuse. Thanks for your help you're a life saver, thought I was going to have to spend $2000 on a harness and new ECM.

I figure it happened not when wiggling the harness but when tieing it up, I had a few open wires for sensors, one of them must have grounded or made contact where it should not have. Could also have just been a faulty part. Thanks again.
 
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