I bought this EX200 that had been sitting with a blown engine for several years and then some ambitious fellow decided to install a new (crate) engine and sold it to me. Yesterday, after a couple of hours of running I thought I was running out of fuel because the engine began to stall out as I began pulling on a tree stump. I shut it down and checked the fuel/filter, plenty of fuel, filter full. Started it back up and discovered that it will run okay even at a high rpm until you load the hydraulics. Any ideas what I should check for first? I only know enough to be "slightly" dangerous, but am trying to learn more. Thanks for any advice you'd care to share.
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Engine almost stalls out when you load the hydraulic's on Hitachi EX200
- Thread starter DReiff62
- Start date
I know on our 400 and 450s there is a screen inside the banjo bolt where the fuel line enters the fuel filters. Had alot of problems with that plugging on one of ours. If you take the banjo bolt out and look you can see the screen. Brake cleaner, ether, carb cleaner all will work fine to blow it clean.
d9gdon
Senior Member
Check the lift pump screen. It will be inside a hollow bolt that clamps down the ring(banjo fitting) on the fuel line from the tank, usually close to the lift(transfer) pump.
Ya beat me to it 51kw. I was looking for a picture when you posted. I had to clean my screen on our 450 last night.
Ya beat me to it 51kw. I was looking for a picture when you posted. I had to clean my screen on our 450 last night.
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Cat_man320
Well-Known Member
i'm having the exact same trouble with my 320l Cat . Its not a fuel problem if the engine is blowing black smoke as it stalls . Its a hydraulic problem I would say. Do you have a limp mode toggle switch? If you have , just try the machine in that mode , I bet the engine won't stall but the machine will be slower and not have the same power . that will tell you its some valve or a solinoid gone bad or a wire off or broke .
jaytech
Well-Known Member
this is a common problem with the hitachi's.
your problem is either the displacement solenoids or the angle sensor.
check out this thread https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/showthread.php?13447-Hitachi-Ex120-Problem
there are also a couple of other good threads you just have to search for them.
your problem is either the displacement solenoids or the angle sensor.
check out this thread https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/showthread.php?13447-Hitachi-Ex120-Problem
there are also a couple of other good threads you just have to search for them.
jaytech
Well-Known Member
sorry about my last post please disregard.
You might have a bad DP sensor or a bad angle sensor.
check out this thread https://www.heavyequipmentforums.co...200-lc-s-hydraulic-problem-stallin-out-engine
You might have a bad DP sensor or a bad angle sensor.
check out this thread https://www.heavyequipmentforums.co...200-lc-s-hydraulic-problem-stallin-out-engine
millerJB
Member
Hey jaytech, I cannot get this thread to open. I am having a very similar issue on a '92 EX100. Some hydraulic functions are slow/weak and choke the engine down while some seem to operate normally. I swapped the displacement solenoids on the pump and nothing changed.
Old thread warning!
Miller, I had to google search the link to get it to open, but it is there. Sometimes the site search isn't as helpful as a search engine search.
For your problem, have you checked the banjo bolt screen, and does it blow visible smoke while it's "choking down"?
Miller, I had to google search the link to get it to open, but it is there. Sometimes the site search isn't as helpful as a search engine search.
For your problem, have you checked the banjo bolt screen, and does it blow visible smoke while it's "choking down"?
millerJB
Member
Thanks! I will go to google. I checked the banjo bolts on all sides of the fuel filter and water separator, none of them had screens. In another thread I saw that there may be one or more "down low" at the pump?
millerJB
Member
Also, yes it does blow some smoke when it chokes down, more grayish than black I would say.
The screen will be in the banjo bolt that is the first inlet from the fuel tank. I've only seen them on the inlet to the fuel transfer pump mounted on the side of the inline injection pump.
Sounds like you're on the right track with the hydraulics though. The engine won't smoke if it's starving for fuel.
Sounds like you're on the right track with the hydraulics though. The engine won't smoke if it's starving for fuel.
millerJB
Member
Yep, I found and cleaned the screen. It was difficult to get to but I managed after a lot of cursing… it was definitely dirty but after cleaning it the problem remains. I’ve spent alot of time cleaning and replacing items in the fuel system so I am definitely leaning toward a hydraulic issue and don’t know what to try next… swapping displacement solenoids on the pump did not change anything.
mg2361
Senior Member
Check your controller LED light. Does it blink once a second? Flash a code? On solid? Not on at all? Also make sure all your fuses are the correct amperage and OK.
If the light is blinking once a second, then check for codes by shorting the two terminals shown below on the diagnostic connector below and behind the right arm rest. Key on after shorting across and count the blink codes. They will be two digit numbers. If there are any, post the results.
If the light is blinking once a second, then check for codes by shorting the two terminals shown below on the diagnostic connector below and behind the right arm rest. Key on after shorting across and count the blink codes. They will be two digit numbers. If there are any, post the results.
millerJB
Member
Thanks! The light stays on solid as a “0”. I checked all fuses and they are good.
millerJB
Member
Also in case it got lost in the thread, only some hydraulic functions choke the engine down. Some perform seemingly normal. Operation of two at the same time though also chokes it down.
mg2361
Senior Member
Does that light stay on solid as soon as you key on (without a jumper for diagnostics)? If it is on solid at normal key on, then there is most likely a short in one of the 5 volt output (reference) signal to one of the sensors. A solid light indicates the controller is froze up.
Which functions seem to kill it and which seem normal?
Which functions seem to kill it and which seem normal?
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millerJB
Member
Yes sir, the light stays on solid as soon as you turn the key on without a jumper wire in the diagnostic plug. I did install the jumper to see if it would give a code but the light just stayed on solid "0" as it had been, no change.
The functions that choke the machine down the worst are the swing and operating a single track. When you operate both tracks together (tracking straight) it runs like a top but trying to turn or operate one by itself chokes it. "Bottoming out" any function also chokes the engine.
Boom in/out/up/down operate somewhat slow but do not choke the engine.
I really appreciate your help so far!
The functions that choke the machine down the worst are the swing and operating a single track. When you operate both tracks together (tracking straight) it runs like a top but trying to turn or operate one by itself chokes it. "Bottoming out" any function also chokes the engine.
Boom in/out/up/down operate somewhat slow but do not choke the engine.
I really appreciate your help so far!
mg2361
Senior Member
A solid light indicates an issue in the electrical system. That PVC is locked up. I suspect either a sensor or wiring is shorted somewhere. Might want to start by unplugging all the sensors with the key off. Then key on and see if the light blinks. If so, then it is a matter of figuring out which sensor is the issue. If the light remains on with the sensors disconnected, then the wiring harness needs a thorough inspection. If it is a harness issue, that could prove difficult to find at best.
Do note, never plug or unplug your throttle stepper motor with the key on. That alone can fry the PVC.
Do note, never plug or unplug your throttle stepper motor with the key on. That alone can fry the PVC.
millerJB
Member
Thank you! I’m not sure how many sensors are necessarily tied into the PVC. I unplugged the angle sensor, the DP, both solenoids, all throttle connectors near the pump, also another connector on a section at the bottom of the main valve. With all of that disconnected the PVC light did not change when I turned the key on.
Note: The sensor at the very top of the pump housing/flange, where it connects to the engine (behind angle sensor and solenoids)… I found that connection loose, the connector clip is broken so it will not stay connected during normal operation. I did the test above with it both connected and disconnected but there was no change to the PVC indicator light. I also connected it after reconnecting all other sensors mentioned above and noted no change to the way the machine is operating. Not sure what that sensor is but wanted to highlight that it has been disconnected up until now. I will have to replace the connector for it to stay connected.
Note: The sensor at the very top of the pump housing/flange, where it connects to the engine (behind angle sensor and solenoids)… I found that connection loose, the connector clip is broken so it will not stay connected during normal operation. I did the test above with it both connected and disconnected but there was no change to the PVC indicator light. I also connected it after reconnecting all other sensors mentioned above and noted no change to the way the machine is operating. Not sure what that sensor is but wanted to highlight that it has been disconnected up until now. I will have to replace the connector for it to stay connected.