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Deere 333d not driving right

ozarkag

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 25, 2018
Messages
311
Location
ozarks
Yes, rotating group is likely scarred. You have swapped reliefs eliminates that. Can your hydraulic shop lap the brass parts?
 

Austin9159

Active Member
Joined
Jan 30, 2024
Messages
43
Location
Georgia
I don’t have a hydraulic shop, I’m just a welder/mechanic. Based on the video I watched I think I’d have to have a machine shop or maybe a hydraulic shop perform that part of the repair
 

Austin9159

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Joined
Jan 30, 2024
Messages
43
Location
Georgia
The bronze plate has light grooves in it, the mating surface of the rotating assembly seems to have .10-.15mm wear on the outside band. The swash plate and the bronze caps on the pistons seem to have a lot of wear though but maybe they’re how it’s supposed to be? I can’t find a picture of a new one to compare. Piston bores are smooth and pistons have superficial scratches(can’t feel with fingernail)
 
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Austin9159

Active Member
Joined
Jan 30, 2024
Messages
43
Location
Georgia
I’ll upload pictures in the morning, I don’t have enough service to get them to attach
 

Austin9159

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Jan 30, 2024
Messages
43
Location
Georgia
The slipper feet are out of spec, they measure 3.63-3.65 and the manual says minimum is 3.68
 

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ozarkag

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 25, 2018
Messages
311
Location
ozarks
Can't see enough to tell it will need all new, but for sure will need rebuilt/lapped.
 

Austin9159

Active Member
Joined
Jan 30, 2024
Messages
43
Location
Georgia
I ended up finding a low hour pump off a 333g from a burned machine. The center section is different so I swapped mine to it. I was able to calibrate the machine and it’s working great now. Having issues with it overheating though, which was happening before, it’ll run for a while then get up to 220°, leave it running at full throttle and it’ll cool down to 205 pretty quick but as soon as I start working the machine it starts to run up again. Thermostat was replaced about 2 weeks ago, water pump is good and coolant is new. Cleaned the coolers real good but it’s doing it after running the machine an hour or 2
 

mg2361

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2016
Messages
5,329
Location
Pennsylvania
Occupation
Equipment Mechanic
Cooling package clean? Has the fan speed been checked? That would be with the engine at fast idle, the hydraulic oil at 110*F and the fan speed control solenoid disconnected. Measure the fan speed with a photo tach. Spec is 2350-2600 rpm.
 

Austin9159

Active Member
Joined
Jan 30, 2024
Messages
43
Location
Georgia
Yeah the cooling package is clean, cleaned it again yesterday to be sure. Ran it an hour today and it started to overheat again. Measured it at 1580 rpm’s at WOT. Fan speed solenoid is clean and I cleaned it again during the test but it didn’t seem to make a difference. So I guess I’ll need to measure case drain to know what to replace
 

Austin9159

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Joined
Jan 30, 2024
Messages
43
Location
Georgia
Can the fan motor be rebuilt? I see there’s a $200 seal kit. Didn’t know if that would be the issue or that it’s probably a mechanical issue and the whole unit needs replaced
 

mg2361

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Jul 5, 2016
Messages
5,329
Location
Pennsylvania
Occupation
Equipment Mechanic
Measured it at 1580 rpm’s at WOT
If that is with the solenoid disconnected, then that is why you are overheating.

Has the charge pump been flow tested or inspected? I see from your serial you have the reversing fan option? The reversing fan directional control valve is could be stuck/sticking.

Check your messages.
 

Austin9159

Active Member
Joined
Jan 30, 2024
Messages
43
Location
Georgia
Charge pump is brand new, that was the original issue when I bought it and apparently it’s taken out everything else with it before it locked up. You helped my diagnose that when I first got it. I went to a hydraulic shop bought a hose to test the flow from the fan case drain. Manual says 17oz in a minute once it starts flowing, I got 32oz in 15 secs. So now it begs the question can I rebuild it with this kit at370557 or do I just get another motor from John Deere?
 

mg2361

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Joined
Jul 5, 2016
Messages
5,329
Location
Pennsylvania
Occupation
Equipment Mechanic
Take it apart and check the condition. If the gears or housing are wiped, by a new one. If they are in good shape and the only issue is the pressure plate seals, buy the seal kit. My money says if debris from the pump went through, you will need a new one.
 
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Austin9159

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Jan 30, 2024
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Location
Georgia
Yeah the housing is scratched up, gears are in good shape. So I don’t suppose I’ll get away with just seals?
 

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Austin9159

Active Member
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Jan 30, 2024
Messages
43
Location
Georgia
Okay thanks, I got the motor coming so hopefully get some work done with the machine this coming up week. Thank you very much for all your help
 

Austin9159

Active Member
Joined
Jan 30, 2024
Messages
43
Location
Georgia
Got the new motor on today, was working great from a few hours, decided to reverse the fan but when it switched back to normal the fan was very slow. Cut the machine off and fired it back up and it went back to full rpm. I may have the reverse solenoid wired backwards, I can’t seem to find in the manual where it shows where they go
 
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