Shop Dweller
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 26, 2024
- Messages
- 114
- Location
- NW, North Carolina
- Occupation
- Semi Retired from 28 years logging, now I wrench and weld Heavy Equipment
New here on this forum, hope im getting it right. I have a 78a D4D with D4E winch that I have a couple of questions on. Firstly... I have had this thing a few years and it has mainly sat around because it needed work I didn't have time to do. But now I have it in my shop giving it a good going over.
It had the original C frame trunnion balls still and the C frame moved about 3 inches forward and back when going from forward to reverse. All the rest of the A blade was just as bad. Crank your arms all the way to one side and set it down and it would go flat. Great for gravel spreading, crap for pulling ditches, benching roads, etc. I have all the blade redone, every pivot point in the C frame and angle mechanisms, and the center pin. All the cylinder joints are still pretty tight, it was greased good at least.
I had to replace one hydraulic track tensioner, and pack the inner part, and the other side is coming soon because all the chrome is already gone from it. I pulled a rod from one of the blade cylinders and as soon as I saw it my mind was refreshed back to mine and my Dads ol' 6C and I knew I had the wrong packing so I am waiting on that. But anyhow the point is. I fixed the blade and frame group, and I was going to do the rest of everything outside of the building and I kept finding more I wanted to do.
BTW, this all started because I need to push some dirt to widen a driveway over a culvert for my neighbor.
The C frame was so bad when I picked it up with my ol' knuckleboom it just jiggled like Jello. Probably because the trunnions were so bad letting it spread. Someone had wrapped rebar around the trunnions and welded it to keep it from pushing all the way off.
Once I decided to move it in ,I dropped the belly pans that hadn't been down in years clearly and I gave it a good pressure washing, inside, out, and under. Well I noticed that it strung a liquid across the shop floor. First thought, dang I hope thats water? Nope, fuel... So its coming from the weep tube on the lift pump, or transfer pump which had been stuck down in dirt so you couldn't tell.. So I ordered up my parts(I have all the parts books and I have the Hydraulic and Tractor service manuals)and I got that pump off. Well I noticed the meter had a big crack on the back like it had been frozen.
This machine had been ran with the primary filter missing like most of them. It doesn't hurt that much if the machine doesn't sit around, we never ran one in the old 6C and my dad bought it in 74' and it is a 69' model with turbo, and he nor I ever had to work on that pump. And it ran most everyday on a logging job. But this little 4 sat a lot, and still does so it took some water damage. When I got it I had to dig the sludge out of the main filter housing with either and a screwdriver. The geared shaft in that transfer pump had groves where it rusted against the seals 15 thousanths deep. I spun it in my drill press with emory on it and I got it in decent shape within 2 or 3 thousanths across the entire length and it fits the seals and bearings good so Im gonna try it.
My main question starts here. I had to tear the seal retainer up on the meter end to get it out, it was so rusted in place. The machine has a meter in dash, so why cant I just make an end plate and cut a gasket and cap it on there and eliminate the meter as long as that spring seal and retainer are in the correct position I dont see a problem? Its obvious that meter hasn't worked in many years.I have everything to go back together except that seal retainer which is the only part that seems to be Cat only, and its coming in Monday. I don't see why a cover would be any worse than a non working meter with a chewed off shaft. I pretty much know the answer to this question but looking to see if I am missing something.
And I had another question. Previous owner stated winch (D4E) works but brakes don't hold. That was true. So I finally took a look at that. No silicone on torn side plates equals a winch full of rust and greasy water mixture. At first I thought it was just gonna be a clean up and adjustment job. But then I noticed the brake drum and the shaft were spline stripped. So does anyone know of that stuff anywhere? I have found 1 used drum for a grand and Im not paying that to fix something I don't use. If I don't find a solution im just gonna weld that drum to the shaft. Its trash anyway, and there are no machine shops around here anymore that capable, although there are a couple hi-tech scannning water jets...hmmm..
When I weld it I will pack it behind with wet towels and do a little at a time because I realize there is a seal behind there.
I know this was lengthy but it seems some people are really into these lil' D4s on here and like to hear all about them. I have several more things to do to it. Couple of big things are final drive seals leaking, yay! Always Cats weak point, final drives. And it has that ridiculous round Fleco cab that I have to roll over the battery boxes in a ball to get in. So Im whacking it and straightening the curves. But she runs like a champ. Just weak after being used to a turbo 6 and some more modern stuff. Have had my hands on many dozers, 6m(mine), D6C(mine), D6D(my dad's), JD 650K, 750C, 850C, Case 1450B(mine), 1150G(mine), 1550, Fiat 175, and I could go on, but this pump job and injection pumps/ injectors may help that considering how bad this pump was.
I learned on a direct drive and I still love them. Any suggestions appreciated.
