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Cat 953c idler broke- can it be welded?
- Thread starter Jim Johnson
- Start date
ExcavatorPartsVincent
Member
Hard to say for sure from one photo, but I would not weld that bar back on until you know exactly what it is doing and why it broke.
If it is only a light guide/guard, a good weld repair might get you by. If it locates the adjuster, keeps the idler aligned, or carries any track-tension load, I would be much more careful. A failed repair there can let the track walk or damage the recoil/adjuster parts.
A few checks I would make first:
1. Back the track tension off safely and inspect the recoil/grease adjuster, yoke and mounting ears.
2. Check the idler shell, shaft and bushings for side play. If the idler is already moving sideways, welding the bar back on will not fix the cause.
3. Look at track-frame alignment and track tension. An over-tight track can load the front idler hard.
4. Clean the broken area enough to see whether the crack runs into the idler structure itself.
If the base metal is cracked into a load-bearing area, I would price a used or replacement idler. If it is just a non-critical guide and the rest of the idler is tight, a qualified welder can probably make a temporary repair, but I would still keep an eye on track alignment after running it.
If it is only a light guide/guard, a good weld repair might get you by. If it locates the adjuster, keeps the idler aligned, or carries any track-tension load, I would be much more careful. A failed repair there can let the track walk or damage the recoil/adjuster parts.
A few checks I would make first:
1. Back the track tension off safely and inspect the recoil/grease adjuster, yoke and mounting ears.
2. Check the idler shell, shaft and bushings for side play. If the idler is already moving sideways, welding the bar back on will not fix the cause.
3. Look at track-frame alignment and track tension. An over-tight track can load the front idler hard.
4. Clean the broken area enough to see whether the crack runs into the idler structure itself.
If the base metal is cracked into a load-bearing area, I would price a used or replacement idler. If it is just a non-critical guide and the rest of the idler is tight, a qualified welder can probably make a temporary repair, but I would still keep an eye on track alignment after running it.
heymccall
Senior Member
No idea, but 35 is listed as part of 34, yet is also sold separately.
I used a 2zn serial number.
I used a 2zn serial number.
pittsburgh cat man
Senior Member
I think you would be farther ahead to check for a rebuilt idler The bore and bushings in part number 41 are probably suspect A lot of dealers sale rebuilt exchanges Probably save you a lot of aggravation in the long run
Jim Johnson
Member
I plan to tear down and inspect further soon. This is a just a farm machine now and I hate to put a lot of money into it
pittsburgh cat man
Senior Member
Couple things check on line after market link is less than 300 dollars also note part 37 is a wedge that holds it to idler shaft and last there is a grease fitting for the shaft that broke witch no one ever greases
Welder Dave
Senior Member
Need to see exactly what broke to say if it's worth trying to weld. If you can fix it with a new part for under $300 that's the way to go.