HATCHEQUIP
Senior Member
Yair I here yall
-
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Cat 951-C in my sights
- Thread starter Nitelite
- Start date
Nitelite
Senior Member
Prince Charles don't have any 40 year old iron tc
I got it back on! It took me two hours and five minutes. Tc, the problem with me doing it your way is that I can't heft a twenty pound sledge anymore. The shock of the hammer blow, especially swinging sideways, is just too much for the old pacemaker/defibulator. If I missed my mark it would probably just rip the wires right out of my old ticker. You know, it is just another one of those newfangled computer things!
I curled the bucket and raised it for maximum extension. The bucket was still full of dirt from my last load. I used the AG tractor front end loader to add more dirt so as to heap the loader bucket. All of that forward weight put the loader on its tippy toes lifting the last two rollers and sprocket off the ground. I used a come along hanging from the handle on the ROPS to lift the track chain over the top roller. Then I relieved the track tension grease bolt and pushed the front idler in as far as it would go with the ag tractor bucket. Next I used the ag tractor bucket again to place the chain over the sprocket teeth, one at a time, and then a push on the bottom of the track chain put it back on the bottom rollers. I pumped the track tensioner back up with the grease gun until it got too hard to pump. I fired up the loader and dumped the load and then pushed down until the idler and rollers came off the ground. The grease gun pumped easy with the track off the ground. I did not need to block up under the rear of the loader at all.
tc is talking about a fairy, well tc, that fairy came to me in a dream and told me to heap the loader bucket. Ha Ha. Thanks guys!
I got it back on! It took me two hours and five minutes. Tc, the problem with me doing it your way is that I can't heft a twenty pound sledge anymore. The shock of the hammer blow, especially swinging sideways, is just too much for the old pacemaker/defibulator. If I missed my mark it would probably just rip the wires right out of my old ticker. You know, it is just another one of those newfangled computer things!
I curled the bucket and raised it for maximum extension. The bucket was still full of dirt from my last load. I used the AG tractor front end loader to add more dirt so as to heap the loader bucket. All of that forward weight put the loader on its tippy toes lifting the last two rollers and sprocket off the ground. I used a come along hanging from the handle on the ROPS to lift the track chain over the top roller. Then I relieved the track tension grease bolt and pushed the front idler in as far as it would go with the ag tractor bucket. Next I used the ag tractor bucket again to place the chain over the sprocket teeth, one at a time, and then a push on the bottom of the track chain put it back on the bottom rollers. I pumped the track tensioner back up with the grease gun until it got too hard to pump. I fired up the loader and dumped the load and then pushed down until the idler and rollers came off the ground. The grease gun pumped easy with the track off the ground. I did not need to block up under the rear of the loader at all.
tc is talking about a fairy, well tc, that fairy came to me in a dream and told me to heap the loader bucket. Ha Ha. Thanks guys!
Nitelite
Senior Member
Todays track placement went so well that would have been a perfect day had I not ran over my vintage Homelite 330 chain saw with the ag tractor. Bent the handle pretty bad and bent the bar to the point that it broke. I forgot that it was in the bucket and tipped the bucket while traveling. Still runs good, just have to order a new bar and straighten the handle a bit. I guess that you could say that I paid my stupid tax today.
A question for those who have experience, how much trouble is it to replace the sprockets on the 951C after removal of the track chains? I don't want to loose another track while the machine is in the muck of cleaning out the lake! I know that the chains need to be replaced at the same time as the sprockets, just don't know if I can afford to do that right now. Bad idea I know, but can I just replace the sprockets and re use the chains then run until destruction and still expect the machine to outlast me? The best that I remember and I will double check, my chain pitch, with its wear, is measuring out at 7 inches average over five links. New SALT chains would be the way to go for Prince Charles, but the fairy told me that just might not be in the cards for me at this time. It is a question of either fix it affordably or shut it down.
I count 39 links to the side on my 951C, and I think 39 links and shoes conform to specifications, so no link has been removed.
Think, farm toy for my use only, what is the worse thing that can happen and how many hours of running will it take!
A question for those who have experience, how much trouble is it to replace the sprockets on the 951C after removal of the track chains? I don't want to loose another track while the machine is in the muck of cleaning out the lake! I know that the chains need to be replaced at the same time as the sprockets, just don't know if I can afford to do that right now. Bad idea I know, but can I just replace the sprockets and re use the chains then run until destruction and still expect the machine to outlast me? The best that I remember and I will double check, my chain pitch, with its wear, is measuring out at 7 inches average over five links. New SALT chains would be the way to go for Prince Charles, but the fairy told me that just might not be in the cards for me at this time. It is a question of either fix it affordably or shut it down.
I count 39 links to the side on my 951C, and I think 39 links and shoes conform to specifications, so no link has been removed.
Think, farm toy for my use only, what is the worse thing that can happen and how many hours of running will it take!
It doesn't matter how you did it. The track's on, nobody's dead and nobody's in jail. It's been a good day!! :thumbsup
HATCHEQUIP
Senior Member
Nite I believe you've got several choices weld on outer sprocket rings , press off and on new sprockets just like the ones on now or press on new sprockets with bolt on segments or they make cups that you weld in each sprocket dip. Since your sprocket seals aren't leaking probably just weld on new rings. I put a set of cups on a old track hoe and there doing ok but its just a farm machine and isn't traveling all the time like your loader is.
Nitelite
Senior Member
I am leaning toward rim replacement at this time. I have a gas ax, a 225 amp stick welder, a 180 amp mig welder and a whole heap of want to! I will call for parts priced tomorrow.
DMiller
Senior Member
Do the welds stick, use a reasonably good supplier 7018 3/32 rod for tack ons & root passes then upsize to 1/8 or 5/32 for finish passes.
Nitelite
Senior Member
Today I figured out a way to get just a little more track adjustment and both tracks are now tighter than you would want to run a dozer but about right for a track loader. I haven't tried it yet but I think it will be ok for now. I priced sprocket gear rings today, $ 430.00 for both sides at Off Road. New chains, not SALT but with a," bolt together" master link, $1505.00 each side. Salt chains are $ 1940.00 per side. I already have new pads and hardware to reuse.
Jeff at Off Road suggested that I run it as long as the track chains stay tight. If they get loose, again, having no more adjustment left, remove one link and run till destruction and get my moneys worth before putting on the new chains and sprockets. That sounds like a plan to me.
The loader runs very good, spins the new triple grouser shoes, blue smoke, no more slobbering and it has not overheated in 14 hours hard use. It did burn 5 gallon of oil in the 14 hours though.
While I had Jeff on the phone today I went ahead and ordered the complete overhaul kit, new pistons, rings, cylinder liners, rod bearings, main bearings, thrust plates and gasket set. Not too bad at $571.00 plus UPS freight.
With the engine rebuild the old gal might not be so blue!
Jeff at Off Road suggested that I run it as long as the track chains stay tight. If they get loose, again, having no more adjustment left, remove one link and run till destruction and get my moneys worth before putting on the new chains and sprockets. That sounds like a plan to me.
The loader runs very good, spins the new triple grouser shoes, blue smoke, no more slobbering and it has not overheated in 14 hours hard use. It did burn 5 gallon of oil in the 14 hours though.
While I had Jeff on the phone today I went ahead and ordered the complete overhaul kit, new pistons, rings, cylinder liners, rod bearings, main bearings, thrust plates and gasket set. Not too bad at $571.00 plus UPS freight.
With the engine rebuild the old gal might not be so blue!
Nitelite
Senior Member
Don't try this at home!
In the track loader forum today I posted on Grease Gun’s thread, Cat 955 lift cylinder. I, just kidding around, suggested that he go rent a car and use it to hold up his loader arms and bucket while he rebuilds the lift cylinders, I did remind him to opt in for the insurance. I practice what I preach!
In 2001 I needed a shed to put my pontoon boat and a pickup under at the lake property 56 miles from home. My brother welded up the trusses out of 1x3 steel tubing. I drilled the post holes, set the post and bolted a 2x6 band around band around them. We carried the trusses down one weekend and set them. Then we welded 1x1 steel tubing laths across the trusses to screw the heavy gage metal roof to. I wired the structure with plenty of lights and plugs. It is a large structure. To accommodate the pontoon, truck and two riding lawnmowers we built it 18’ wide and 30’ long.
Perfect setup, until my neighbor complained after a land survey in 2004 that the left front corner of my structure was 1 foot over the property line and he was just not having it! Then there was a twenty foot setback rule for a structure. I argued that it was a carport and therefore the 20 foot setback did not apply! He argued that it was a pole barn and therefore the setback rule did apply. :beatsme
How to move a structure with an all welded roof system without removing the sheet metal and burning the gas ax? Pictures are worth a thousand words my friend, and I did gladly purchase the insurance when it was offered with the rental. I had all of my measurements when I chose the perfect truck for the job. The sides and top of the van were made of fiberglass. I have no idea what the crush weight would be, no sweat, I had it fully insured!
The progression of the day was as follows.
Rent truck. Drive 15 miles to my shed. Square truck up in front of shed. Remove valve cores from all tires. When all air is gone from tires pull truck under the roof. Block up with 2x6 boards and add air to tires until the blocking is tight. Remove the bolts that secure the post to the band. Air up tires fully and back up with said structure and a pucker.
Pull up post with a tractor. Stake out new location just to the rear and 15 feet off of the line. Drill new post holes after eating lunch. Set and tamp the post level. Center the truck up and drive between the relocated posts. Let the Air out of the tires, line up bolt holes in the band with the post as the roof comes down. Remove the blocking and tighten all bolts. Back the truck out of the newly located structure. Release pucker. Park pontoon, lawnmowers and pickup back inside. Fill old post holes and rake the ground at the prior location. Smooth the pucker wrinkles out of the truck seat and return the rental truck without a scratch. The total time spent was about eight hours including lunch.:tong
In the pictures note the position of the survey stake before and after the move. The result was a po ed neighbor because I only set back 15 feet instead of twenty. I proved that it was indeed a portable carport, not a pole barn. The county agreed. To this day the neighbor cannot figure out how I accomplished the move as he was not at home all day on moving day. :notworthy
It will take two postings to get all of the pictures in.
In the track loader forum today I posted on Grease Gun’s thread, Cat 955 lift cylinder. I, just kidding around, suggested that he go rent a car and use it to hold up his loader arms and bucket while he rebuilds the lift cylinders, I did remind him to opt in for the insurance. I practice what I preach!
In 2001 I needed a shed to put my pontoon boat and a pickup under at the lake property 56 miles from home. My brother welded up the trusses out of 1x3 steel tubing. I drilled the post holes, set the post and bolted a 2x6 band around band around them. We carried the trusses down one weekend and set them. Then we welded 1x1 steel tubing laths across the trusses to screw the heavy gage metal roof to. I wired the structure with plenty of lights and plugs. It is a large structure. To accommodate the pontoon, truck and two riding lawnmowers we built it 18’ wide and 30’ long.
Perfect setup, until my neighbor complained after a land survey in 2004 that the left front corner of my structure was 1 foot over the property line and he was just not having it!
Then there was a twenty foot setback rule for a structure. I argued that it was a carport and therefore the 20 foot setback did not apply! He argued that it was a pole barn and therefore the setback rule did apply. :beatsmeHow to move a structure with an all welded roof system without removing the sheet metal and burning the gas ax? Pictures are worth a thousand words my friend, and I did gladly purchase the insurance when it was offered with the rental. I had all of my measurements when I chose the perfect truck for the job. The sides and top of the van were made of fiberglass. I have no idea what the crush weight would be, no sweat, I had it fully insured!
The progression of the day was as follows.
Rent truck. Drive 15 miles to my shed. Square truck up in front of shed. Remove valve cores from all tires. When all air is gone from tires pull truck under the roof. Block up with 2x6 boards and add air to tires until the blocking is tight. Remove the bolts that secure the post to the band. Air up tires fully and back up with said structure and a pucker.
Pull up post with a tractor. Stake out new location just to the rear and 15 feet off of the line. Drill new post holes after eating lunch. Set and tamp the post level. Center the truck up and drive between the relocated posts. Let the Air out of the tires, line up bolt holes in the band with the post as the roof comes down. Remove the blocking and tighten all bolts. Back the truck out of the newly located structure. Release pucker. Park pontoon, lawnmowers and pickup back inside. Fill old post holes and rake the ground at the prior location. Smooth the pucker wrinkles out of the truck seat and return the rental truck without a scratch. The total time spent was about eight hours including lunch.:tong
In the pictures note the position of the survey stake before and after the move. The result was a po ed neighbor because I only set back 15 feet instead of twenty. I proved that it was indeed a portable carport, not a pole barn. The county agreed. To this day the neighbor cannot figure out how I accomplished the move as he was not at home all day on moving day. :notworthy
It will take two postings to get all of the pictures in.
Nitelite
Senior Member
The rest of the pictures
Sometimes it pays to do a lot of thinking before doing. If you are not afraid of pucker power you can do just about anything!ointhead
Sometimes it pays to do a lot of thinking before doing. If you are not afraid of pucker power you can do just about anything!
ointhead
DMiller
Senior Member
We did similar with a hay wagon full of scaffold and some cribbing blocks, had to move a canopy similar in size at a fairgrounds some 75 feet, did it in two days but had installed new posts(old ones bad) prior. The fairgrounds management had no idea how we did it to this day either!!
Nitelite
Senior Member
Miller, you must not be able to sleep either!
jughead
Senior Member
very glad my neighbors aint like that
old-iron-habit
Senior Member
- Joined
- Nov 22, 2012
- Messages
- 4,236
- Location
- Moose Lake, MN
- Occupation
- Retired Cons't. Supt./Hospitals
We moved my old 16 by 24 ft garage to a new pad when I built my larger garage. With the 12' door rolled up I backed in the opening with a flatbed dump truck with a 18 ft bed. We lifted the hoist about 4 ft, bolted two 2"x 12" x 16' plank togather and stood them on edge across the very back of the bed. I bolted the ends to a stud and nailed a two by six about 8 ft long across the end to spread the load out. We then lowered the bed raising the back end of the garage about 18". We then put two more 2"x12" on edge across the very front of the bed, secured them to the walls the same way. Next we lifted the bed a foot in the front. the garage now rested a ft of the ground all the way around. I drove away and set it down on the new slab. Working with my experienced house moving uncle we moved my old garage in 2 hours after I had the wood material on site. My neighbors stopped later to ask where the garage went.
I'm glad that you introduced me to Jeff! I would have been glad to know him before I rebuilt my 3304!! :drinkup
Guilty! I've never used a box truck, but I have moved a 10'x20' garage that was 15' tall through the country about 8 miles. It was on a concrete pad, so we knocked one end out of the garage and backed a trailer inside. We jacked up the building about 6" and strung 2"x8" boards across the deck of the trailer to tie into the stud walls with bolts. We cleared most of the power lines
I moved another one out of the back lot of our yard when we had a house in town. It was 10' wide by 24' long, but much shorter... Got a weird look from the town cop and the neighbors as we pulled it down main street!
tctractors
Senior Member
Nitelite, your mobile car port thing is 3 times the size of my house? boy do you have some tricks, firstly well done with the track on job, mission completed with no drama and now't knackered, then this "House" move antic partly due to a scabby oik' next door, I know what he would get in his plant pots for a few weeks!! anyhow you should have known better that poaching a bit of his field shame on you, but the way the Penthouse was moved is a Classic bit of Mind over Matter, it sort of came in your mind that U-Haul dont matter, I love it and bow to the "Alpha Male" if the local donkeys near me spotted those snaps, they would all be building Car Ports on their roof racks then driving about with it in place. with a big Smile tctractors
Grease Gun
Well-Known Member
Kinda looks like some mobile homes around here. When the roof starts leaking bad, they just build another one on top of it.
I agree.....nicely done. Especially the "lift" you got from deflating and re-inflating the tires!
Have the folks from U-HAUL contacted you yet for the advertising rights?
I agree.....nicely done. Especially the "lift" you got from deflating and re-inflating the tires!
Have the folks from U-HAUL contacted you yet for the advertising rights?
DMiller
Senior Member
I do sleep nitelite, just not too deeply and never when I need to get work done. Spent a 12 hour night shift last week, next day off so went to the farm, cleaned up and replaced the lower bucket pin boss retainers, right side still had one ear but had been welded on by some dumb slob with more scrap than brains, left side was completely gone, fabbed up the 1/2" plate pin bosses, added 1/4" plate brace plates and went to work, got both lower pins where they are more readily removed so I can pull the bucket when I need to drop the right truck for sprocket shaft seal work. Was up a solid 26 hours. Also have a GP bucket for the old monster, need to order up some AR steel plate for the sides and belly, order a replacement blank cutting edge and have the shop punch a few holes for Cat 955H bucket teeth I got on the cheap. Then more rods to burn but a decent spare GP with a functional MP bucket.
Nitelite
Senior Member
Tc, If you had one of those portable roofs mounted on your Land Rover you could take it to the job sites and never have to work in the rain again. Slow down on all of the new words, not so fast, I have only barely translated the word knackered!
On the track off deal, without people like you and others posting your experience and knowledge I really would have had a rough time putting the track back on. I really didn't believe in faries until I met you! Again, thanks guys. I can't wait to get into the guts of that 3304 to see where all of that oil went, just another adventure.
Tomorrow I will remove the four foot high steel sideboards and tail gates from the dump truck. I need to choose the right size white oak tree to cut down and have sawn at the sawmill to fab up some 18" tall sideboards for the dump truck to haul gravel. It should take about thirty loads to complete the gravel job on my driveway.
Before I retired, I don't know how I found the time to work!
On the track off deal, without people like you and others posting your experience and knowledge I really would have had a rough time putting the track back on. I really didn't believe in faries until I met you! Again, thanks guys. I can't wait to get into the guts of that 3304 to see where all of that oil went, just another adventure.
Tomorrow I will remove the four foot high steel sideboards and tail gates from the dump truck. I need to choose the right size white oak tree to cut down and have sawn at the sawmill to fab up some 18" tall sideboards for the dump truck to haul gravel. It should take about thirty loads to complete the gravel job on my driveway.
Before I retired, I don't know how I found the time to work!
Nitelite
Senior Member
kb9tci, we have read the post of how you moved the 15' tall garage, now we are waiting for you to tell us how you went back and got the slab?
I couldn't afford to run my old iron without Jeff. When I talked to him and he said that he had just talked to you.
I couldn't afford to run my old iron without Jeff. When I talked to him and he said that he had just talked to you.