Case 580 CK stuck wheel or brakes

[1968 Case 580CK]

Brake System Update:

Hopefully these pictures and my comments will help someone else with stuck brakes.

I super-cleaned all the parts, and found that it was simple to split apart the inner heavy discs. It has two springs that you can simply use a small screwdriver to unhook the spring end from the other disc, then flip over and do the same on the other side. Here are a couple pics:

After peeling apart the two plates, you will find those 4 large steel balls that float in small indentations on both plates. I used a small wire brush and diesel fuel to thoroughly clean all crapola and surface rust off the balls and the surfaces they ride in. Then, I put some fresh motor oil on the surfaces, and then some "anti-seize" compound to help keep those balls from sticking in the future.









The two small springs attached to the cast iron case managed to stay in place during the entire process.....there was no need to punch out the retaining plates to remove them as the shop manual says.



I managed to put the two small "cone shaped" springs back in by just using a small screwdriver to push it trough, and then pull on the other side with a pair of needle nose plyers. No problems.

 

[1968 Case 580CK]

More pics of the process:

The small springs that remained in the cast iron cover:



This was the frozen joint, where the brake lever connects to the two brake shoes. It was completely frozen up with inner suface rust, and it took alot of banging and penetrating spray to brake her free. I then removed the cotter pin (which was so rusty it was about to turn to dust and return to the earth), cleaned all the surfaces in diesel with a wire brush, then sandpaper, and then oiled and put some anti-seize on. Works perfect now.



All back together, and ready to go back on the tranny:


And here is the bolt that you want to leave in place when removing the brake assembly from the tractor. This bolt holds the ends of the brake shoes in place.


Hope this helps someone else with "stuck brakes".

dwight

 

[1968 Case 580CK]

And to show the quality that Case put into these old machines, here is a stamp of the Case Eagle on the cast iron brake cover......in a place you would never see unless you were a mechanic pulling these brakes apart.....and I spose only a mechanic would appreciate this:

 

[1968 Case 580CK]

Now I need some help from the experts in here:

Today I took off the brake assembly on the other side of my 580CK. This side was even more difficult than the other side was. With that darn backhoe support frame so close to the cast iron brake assembly, there is absolutely no clearance to remove it. I struggled and struggled, and this one was soaked full of oil that had leaked out from the differential box. I finally was able to take out the bolt that you should typically leave in the cast iron case, as it helps hold in the brake shoes. After taking out this bolt, the brake assembly was able to find a path out of there.



I then noticed that the 1/4 inch square spacer plate was a bit loose, so I used some big screwdrivers to slowly pry it all the way off. Here is what was left after I removed it:

You will notice on the very end of the shaft, there is a metal pressed seal that is kinda mis-alligned, and is leaking oil. Before taking the picture, I pealed off some old black silicone that some former mechanic must have used to help prevent the leak. Should I just clean well and re-apply another thick coating of silicone gasket maker? Or should I try taping this metal seal with a mallet and a piece of wood to see if I can get it to allign better? Do they make a replacement metal end seal?

Here is a pic showing more of what lies inside. Anyone know what those metal "balls" to the left are for?

I was thinking it was just a flat spacer plate that I removed, and I could get to the outer bearing seal to replace easier. However, when I pulled this out, it had a huge inner seal attached to it:



You can see in this pic that something has gone afoul in Denmark.....what is this wire dangling around for? You can also see where the inner seal was damaged by whomever installed it the last time.....it was clearly pushed in at a bad angle and probably snagged the splined shaft as it was being put on. What is the proper way to replace this big inner seal? I assume it goes on the shaft and is pressed in, and then the metal gasket and thick spacer plate go on next.....is this right? I just dont want to ruin a perfectly good seal when putting it back together.

All comments/suggestions/tips would be appreciated.

dwight

 

[1968 Case 580CK]

Here is the pic showing those metal "balls" to the left:

 

[hosspuller]

Just taking a guess. The "metal balls" are rivet heads holding the differential gear assembly together. And the "wire" is a seal lip spring. The spring puts tension on the rubber lips to seal against the shaft.

Tell me if I'm correct or way off base ...


You might want to check the wear limits on the disks and stationary surfaces. From the pictures it looks like the stationary surfaces have been worn. By measuring the ridge you'll have an idea of how much has been worn away. I can't imagine the ball/ramp can make up for a lot of wear.

 

[1968 Case 580CK]

Just taking a guess. The "metal balls" are rivet heads holding the differential gear assembly together. And the "wire" is a seal lip spring. The spring puts tension on the rubber lips to seal against the shaft.

Tell me if I'm correct or way off base ...


You might want to check the wear limits on the disks and stationary surfaces. From the pictures it looks like the stationary surfaces have been worn. By measuring the ridge you'll have an idea of how much has been worn away. I can't imagine the ball/ramp can make up for a lot of wear.

Hey Hoss......Hey, youre probably right about those "balls" being rivets. I will remove the top cover and peer down inside and reply back if they were rivets or not.

And you must be right about that "wire" that was lying there.....surely from the insides of a failed seal, the "lip spring".
Measuring would be a smart thing to do, but do I want to really see a bad reading and freak about paying a HUGE price to replace these costly parts? Im betting that new seals, o rings, and fixing that leak in the end plug will solve the problem.

When you say "ball and ramp", Im thinking about the 4 metal balls and their "ramps" inside the brake housing. Which makes me wonder why there are similar "ramps" machined into the cast iron housing of the differential housing (look at the second pic in this post above.....you see the impressions that have orange paint in them? The flat steel plate (called the Bearing Carrier) mounts right over these orange impressions. Why did Case have these impressions put there? Did the 4 steel balls which are in the brake housing originally go here on the early models? Kinda perplexing.
pic of the brake balls and impressions that are similar to the orange impressions in the housing:

 

[melben]

The LH side carrier and shims are where the backlash is set for the ring /pinion, the most critical part of the operation. You will need a dial indicator and some method to anchor it firmly to get your backlash and the shaft end play has to be 0 so the ring cannot move at all so accurate B/L can be found. Most of us have a magnetic base indicator mount for this purpose

The seal was ruined upon previous sloppy assembly and the spring is the means by which the lip is kept tensoned against the side gear. If you examine the rubber you will see the ridge ion the outside that holds the spring in place. That leaking cup plug is most likely a standard size and probably could be purchased at NAPA. Once you have the bull gear out the side gear can be removed and repaired on the bench

I use electrical tape wrapped around the spilnes to protect the seal and use a couple extra turns to guide the seal onto the gear.

When I was doing those brakes on a regular basis I took the acetylene torch set and put a 1-1.5 inch notch in the loader frame where the bolt interferes with the frame on disassembly, with the frame notched the brake housings practically fall out of there.

 

[1968 Case 580CK]

The LH side carrier and shims are where the backlash is set for the ring /pinion, the most critical part of the operation. You will need a dial indicator and some method to anchor it firmly to get your backlash and the shaft end play has to be 0 so the ring cannot move at all so accurate B/L can be found. Most of us have a magnetic base indicator mount for this purpose


The seal was ruined upon previous sloppy assembly and the spring is the means by which the lip is kept tensoned against the side gear. If you examine the rubber you will see the ridge ion the outside that holds the spring in place. That leaking cup plug is most likely a standard size and probably could be purchased at NAPA. Once you have the bull gear out the side gear can be removed and repaired on the bench

I use electrical tape wrapped around the spilnes to protect the seal and use a couple extra turns to guide the seal onto the gear.

When I was doing those brakes on a regular basis I took the acetylene torch set and put a 1-1.5 inch notch in the loader frame where the bolt interferes with the frame on disassembly, with the frame notched the brake housings practically fall out of there.

Melben......hello again, and thanks for your excellent input. Im glad you mentioned that you would take a torch to the frame and burn out some steel where the brake assembly case bolt has no clearance. (Im thinking you were fussing and complaining just like I was about the lack of clearance space there). I dont have a hot torch, but may instead take a grinding wheel to that spot to give that extra bit of needed space. Good to hear I am not the only complainer. Hey, did you typically remove the tires and fenders before doing brake work like this? I would hate to think I was required to work on the brakes with the tires/fenders in the way.

Measuring and setting the backlash sounds amazingly difficult, and thats why you got paid the big bucks. This side had only the one metal shim between the differential case and the large square Bearing Carrier, and this shim is probably only 1/64" thick. I am going to try to see if a supplier can still sell these shims, along with the o-rings, the outer oil seals, the bearing cups, and the shaft plugs. I was reading in the shop manual, and it says to apply a good coating of Permatex #1 to this metal endcap after installing it (to prevent the oil from leaking down into the brakes). Im going to try taping softly with a mallet and round wood block to see if I can get the plug tapped in and seated properly, and then clean and dry and use the permatex. It is clearly leaking alot of oil past this poorly installed plug (or the plug just popped sideways over time).

So you are saying that it is best to remove the bull gear, then pull out the side gear in order to install the new bearing cup, o rings, and outer oil seals? Im kinda getting shaky feet at the idea......like Im getting in over my head.

Good suggestion about wrapping the splines with elec. tape.

 

[hosspuller]

I don't believe the "ramps" with the orange paint are functional. They are there to reduce stress in the casting process. A solid area as it cools shrinks. The voids help with the shrinkage.

Judging by the pictures, the brake pads resist the rotation of one side of the ball sandwich. The side with the spline continues to rotate. The balls move in the ramp forcing the "bread" of the sandwich apart. The disks then engage the side of the housing and transmission case. I would check these dimensions. It would be disheartening to do all this cleaning and wrenching to find the brakes don't work well because there is too much wear.

Melben ... perhaps you can shed some info on the wear limits and if needed, how to compensate.

 

[1968 Case 580CK]

Hoss......well, that makes sense......the "ramps" may reduce stress in the metal.

On the first brake assembly that I have done on the other side, I put it all back together and tested it just by slightly pulling on the brake rod that pokes out from it, while I was turning the inner workings, and the slight pressure on the rod made the shoes spread slightly, and I had immediate braking action......and I could tell that the inner balls were ready to go up their ramps if I exerted any more rotational pressure. So, Im thinking it will function beautifully.

This second side was literally soaked in oil, and I can see why.....with the center metal axle plug crooked and leaking, and both the inner and outer oil seals shot. The rear end oil level was down some, and if I had just filled back to the "full" mark, that oil would have been oozing out of the bottom of the brake assembly.

**********I have a huge shop manual for my 580CK, but it does not give part numbers. I have been having a hard time trying to order seals and parts without part numbers. Can someone advise where I can find a website that will list all the part numbers?***********

thanks.
dwigh

 

[1968 Case 580CK]

I am having a hard time locating part numbers on-line for the 580CK. I just ordered an official Case Parts Manual, but wonder if anyone has a good website that shows part numbers/diagrams, and the best place to find replacement seals?

Thanks.

 

[melben]

If you are going to inspect/replace the thrust washer between the side gear and the differential carrier You must remove the bull to allow the side gear to be slid off its shaft. There is no other way to check this area out and failure of that washer allows the ring gear clearance to increase. Sounds like you are in for a lot more work than you intended. I hope the friend who is going to help you is a capable mechanic because the setup on the diff /brake shaft is critical.

Permatex smeared over the cup plug that is leaking will not solve the leak, the plug must be removed, the bore thoroughly cleaned and sealer applied to the edge of the plug and the recess the the plug put in and flattened to expand it in the bore.

If you feel you are getting in over your head you may be better off to find a capable mechanic who is familiar with this type of drive.

No, I never removed tires and fenders to do brakes, did it all on my back from underneath, but setup on the shaft would require the disassembly you have done.

 

[Diggerdozer]

HI Melben thankyou for your help on another post re my radiator, trans cooler.

My left hand brake unit gets covered in oil , we have replaced the seal around the shaft that comes out of the transmission? , it s as though the shaft as worn and so the seal no longer fits snug , any suggestions

 

[1968 Case 580CK]

Diggerdozer......you sure you dont have a metal cap inside the shaft (like in the pics above), which will leak oil?

 

[1968 Case 580CK]

If you are going to inspect/replace the thrust washer between the side gear and the differential carrier You must remove the bull to allow the side gear to be slid off its shaft. There is no other way to check this area out and failure of that washer allows the ring gear clearance to increase. Sounds like you are in for a lot more work than you intended. I hope the friend who is going to help you is a capable mechanic because the setup on the diff /brake shaft is critical.

Permatex smeared over the cup plug that is leaking will not solve the leak, the plug must be removed, the bore thoroughly cleaned and sealer applied to the edge of the plug and the recess the the plug put in and flattened to expand it in the bore.

If you feel you are getting in over your head you may be better off to find a capable mechanic who is familiar with this type of drive.

No, I never removed tires and fenders to do brakes, did it all on my back from underneath, but setup on the shaft would require the disassembly you have done.

Melben......thanks again for the good info. Yes, hopefully my mechanic will have done something like this before. (if not, you mind driving over to Va and directing us? Just kiddin).

This Plug is sitting in the shaft at a tilt, so it is not seated flush as it should. OK, sounds like you are saying the Permatex should be added before the new metal plug is installed, and then you add more permatex on the outside after the plug is tapped in place. (The shop manual only says to use it on the outside, but your idea seems like the best way).

Amazing to hear you did all the brake work laying on your back from underneath. I bet you have some fond memories of all sorts of things falling out of the brake housing and onto your coveralls (and hopefully not your eyes).

 

[melben]

I am going to give you an important tip that will make it easier to reseal without seal damage, before you start to reseal, assemble the opposite without seals, brakes and all, tighten the brake adjuster up till the brake is engaged, that will hold the shafts up on center with the opposite side plate removed so you do not have to exert any pressure on the seal, once you have one side completely resealed, take the brake off the unresealed side and repeat the operation. DO not install any seals or orings till after the setup is complete on the diff shaft rolling torque and r/p backlash. If you do not roll the seal when the shaft initally enters it it will be good the rest of the way.

I am going to do more reading here and less chatter, You have enough info to choke a horse. I have seen posts get so cluttered with worthless info and the original poster getting more confused with each new post, I don't want that to happen here.

Mel

 

[1968 Case 580CK]

I am going to give you an important tip that will make it easier to reseal without seal damage, before you start to reseal, assemble the opposite without seals, brakes and all, tighten the brake adjuster up till the brake is engaged, that will hold the shafts up on center with the opposite side plate removed so you do not have to exert any pressure on the seal, once you have one side completely resealed, take the brake off the unresealed side and repeat the operation. DO not install any seals or orings till after the setup is complete on the diff shaft rolling torque and r/p backlash. If you do not roll the seal when the shaft initally enters it it will be good the rest of the way.

I am going to do more reading here and less chatter, You have enough info to choke a horse. I have seen posts get so cluttered with worthless info and the original poster getting more confused with each new post, I don't want that to happen here.

Mel

Mel.......as usual, that is some great advice.....putting one of the brake housings in place and adjusting the brakes tight, to hold everything tight and centered as you work on the other side.

I agree its alot of info flying around, but whenever you want to speak out with more info., I am all ears. Thanks again for all the tips.

 

[Diggerdozer]

yes it could be that thankyou the cap could be my oil leakage issue

 

[1968 Case 580CK]

Some additional information regarding the brakes. If you look at this picture, you will see indentations on the differential case which have orange paint on them. I discovered what the bottom indentation was for. The design of the oil seal (which prevents oil from getting on the brakes) is pretty neat.......if the seal does leak, then the oil is contained in a saucer/bowl area and at the bottom of this is a small drain valley which comes down and then connects with the orange indentation at the bottom. So, leaking oil will drip down into a contained area, and then onward down through the orange indentation, and then will drip to the ground. So, unless this is clogged, you can tell if the seal is leaking by looking for oil coming out of these weep holes (one on each axle side).


So, when you put the metal spacer back on which contains the oil seal, and the metal shim, you need to be sure that one hole lines up on the bottom with the weep indenture. If not, the oil may not leak down and out, and would fill up and then just leak over into the brakes.

The end cap is extremely important for stopping oil from getting into the brakes. On mine, the end cap had been installed at a canted angle, and the oil was fee-flowing. There are no catches for the oil coming past this plug, and it will ooze straight out into the brakes. (Theres alot depending on that little plug at the end of the axle.......Im wondering why Case didnt just have the axle end solid metal so as to avoid the plugs.


In this picture, the oil weep hole is clogged (the hole at the bottom). The oil should flow through this hole, and then down the orange-colored indenture on the rear-end case.