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Barn foundation replacement

Willie B

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Jan 2, 2016
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Mount Tabor VT
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Electrician
Here it's a sill plate whether on a concrete wall, slab or second story wood floor.
A sill, or sill plate rests flat on the foundation. Typically, a box sill rests on that, it closes all sides of the floor joists. Sub floor lays on top of the box sill & floor joists. Shoe goes on top of sub floor. Studs stand vertically on the shoe. A horizontal plate, usually two layers at top of studs. Second floor will have another box sill.
 

CM1995

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Jan 21, 2007
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Alabama
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Running what I brung and taking what I win
A sill, or sill plate rests flat on the foundation. Typically, a box sill rests on that, it closes all sides of the floor joists. Sub floor lays on top of the box sill & floor joists. Shoe goes on top of sub floor. Studs stand vertically on the shoe. A horizontal plate, usually two layers at top of studs. Second floor will have another box sill.

Hmm not here. :D

Here it's a sill plate whether on a concrete wall, slab or second story wood floor.
 

materthegreater

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Jul 25, 2012
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VT
Me neither. Call it a sill plate down here.

So you are going to use the mafia blocks to rebuild the foundation wall or did I miss something?
Yes, that's the plan. I guess my first post wasn't very clear about what kind of blocks I will be using.
 

materthegreater

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All the mafia blocks I have seen are made out of left over concrete that was returned to the readymix company from a pour. Some of it can be well into it's curing time. Some blocks are decent quality and some not so much.
I saw one maybe more in your photo that I would guess won't last very long through very many freeze and thaw cycles.
View attachment 351376
Yes there are certainly some blocks that aren't as good as others. If there are any that look questionable I won't use them.
 

materthegreater

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VT
That is a really good argument for building codes, permitting, and inspections. If somebody bought that property and barn 6 years ago and thought that they were getting a good building, they would be feeling pretty ripped off when they found out that it didn't even last another decade.
Maybe there should be codes and inspections for equipment repair also to reduce the chances of getting ripped off buying a used piece of equipment...
 

skyking1

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Nov 3, 2020
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washington
I would hedge my bets on that build.
stack the blocks, Get some allcrete and grout the joints, then apply some waterproofing after it cures, or apply a membrane.
Then install footing drains all around, and some free draining material.
Then the blocks get dry and stay dry forever. Frost can just $@^#$&B OFF! :)
 

materthegreater

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Jul 25, 2012
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VT
As much as I don't like the warm weather in winter, it does allow for some progress on this foundation. Unfortunately there is ice and snow on a lot of the blocks so we've had to melt of the mating surfaces with the torch so that it doesn't cause issues with the mortar.

1000012064.jpg

Sneaking the first top block under the building. Had to jack it up a few more inches to get clearance for the keyway:

1000012065.jpg

I set this full size block on top of the half block for about an hour and they were frozen solid together when I went back to pick it up. A few good whacks with the sledgehammer and the bottom one dropped away:

1000012066.jpg

Slowly but surely:

1000012067.jpg
 

ps66x4

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Nov 10, 2013
Messages
288
Location
CT
Occupation
cement mason
Id give it a good coat of paint or some oil because if water gets behind it will take a long time to dry out. I'd use any left over paint, color won't matter if you decide to cover it.
 

smifwal

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Mar 6, 2024
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kansas city
Do you remember if was it vibrated or was that pour before the time of vibration? Damn it now I have to Google how they did it before the vibrating whips
 

materthegreater

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Do you remember if was it vibrated or was that pour before the time of vibration? Damn it now I have to Google how they did it before the vibrating whips
I don't believe it was vibrated but I could be wrong. It was poured in 2012 or 13 I think.
 

materthegreater

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Id give it a good coat of paint or some oil because if water gets behind it will take a long time to dry out. I'd use any left over paint, color won't matter if you decide to cover it.
The blocks or the siding?
 

Willie B

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Mount Tabor VT
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Concrete trucks weren't always a thing in rural areas. A concrete pour was a big undertaking. The leader of the project prepared everything in advance. Gravel was brought from the best deposit in the area, most wasn't suitable. Portland cement in bags was delivered. Needed a good supply of water, if it wasn't on site, a fire truck or two. A mixer was there, usually had to be repaired to use it. Forms were built, ramps in place, plenty of good rugged wheelbarrows. Many people were recruited for a weekend.
In my childhood my father was involved in numerous pours. These were highly competent people there for a reason.
A vibrator? what was that for?
Forms were built free of obstructions. Steel was rare. The pour took many hours, many water or air pockets found their way to the surface on their own. People "puddled" the wet concrete to work bubbles out. Of maybe 50 foundations I was present for, beginning 65 years ago, I don't know of a failure to this day. A failed poured concrete foundation, somebody fouled up, cut a corner, designed it poorly.
 
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