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another bosch p7100 problem: 12-valve won't keep running

towbar

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 13, 2022
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355
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Quebec
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retired
p7100.jpg

The last otherwise good run ended with a bit of overheat to about 230-240F, engine ran good and shut down normally. On the next start it fired but would not keep going past a few seconds. This same behavior repeated on each of maybe half a dozen subsequent attempts. Doubt very much if OH has anything to do with it.

Symptoms. Before, when I primed with hand plunger on the lift-pump I could feel pressure building and eventually releasing accompanied by the hissing sound of what I would call bypass but I don't think it was the relief return valve cycling. I could also see fuel moving in step with the prime pump strokes in the transparent lines connecting the fuel tank and pump and filter.

Since the failure I no longer feel any relief, hear it, or see fuel moving except a very tiny bit. If I prime enough the engine will fire but will eventually die, even if I try to keep hand priming. It 'seems' as if some anomally is preventing fuel from getting into or through the pump back to the tank.

I have changed the relief valve and think that a double failure in sequence (the old valve and then the new one also) would be very unlikely though not impossible.

Having just removed the pump I'm looking for an easy fix OR it goes to the shop for a rebuild (but not the same shop that built it about 3 years or that many hundreds of hours ago.
 

towbar

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Jun 13, 2022
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Got some more: I pulled what could be called the boost compensator bump atop the rear (power lever) end to be able to look inside. As soon as I touched the rack it slid all the way forward so it's extremely free (looks like it was disconnected from the power lever linkage). But the shutoff lever seems to have limited range, AND the power lever seems to be disconnected! Having watched a score of u-tubes I've never come across this one yet.

So my first question is: can I safely pull the entire rear (gov) end held on by half a dozen torx screws without upsetting any calibration in an attempt to locate the disconnect?


I'd try to avoid a $3k rebuild for a chickenshit snag but if necessary then so be it (maybe NOT the same shop that last built it).
 
Last edited:

towbar

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38 minutes later I can no longer edit. What I thought was the rack sliding forward may have been something else. I have the back end cover screws removed (one was missing), looking for a way to remove tat cover to see better.
 

towbar

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I must be losing my freakin' marbles because I could SWEAR I had pushed a metalic ruler-like bar forward by just touching it. Anyway, I don't see any such thing in there at all. In the video, as I rotate the power lever forward the linkage seems to just momentarily load a spring which would then be supposed to move the rack, but the rack won't move and I won't push it. Gave up on opening the gov. big-end, unscrewed the delivery valve addons atop the plungers and poured some wd40 and then 2-cycle oil into the 6 bores. Gonna let it sit a while. It is a bosch pump, almost certainly oem in the engine of the source 1995 Dodge.

boschtag.jpg
 

Deere500a

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 4, 2012
Messages
822
Location
Castro Valley ca
Damn never got into 5.9 or industrial but last was a 98 Dodge no start was a wiper relay swap got power to the pump & started. Suck simple abc turns into gremlins
 

towbar

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Joined
Jun 13, 2022
Messages
355
Location
Quebec
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retired
That's why they advise to priorotize beginning with the simplest possible solutions. My problem is lack of familiarity, in this case for example I had never built a diesel until I was 65 or so, or saw an injection pump for that matter, or a rear axle the first and last one which had been my first car, a '53 Ford Custom but my Cat-426 axle (other thread) is a bit more involved than that :)

This p7100 has no electrical nothing but it is a genuine Bosch so I don't want to botch it, looks more and more like a shipout to a rebuild shop....
 

towbar

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Joined
Jun 13, 2022
Messages
355
Location
Quebec
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retired
I had read in some idiot's readme file that half/half 2-cycle oil and acetone was the solution to use. No sooner had I flooded the plungers above the seals I found out that this was utter bull, so I immediately emptied them and immersed the entire pump in gasoline for about 3 hours. THEN I emptied that and reflooded the plungers with just 2-cycle oil overnight. This morning, just as I was getting set to open the governor housing I noticed that the rack was now free. Alas, as I was putting it all back together I noticed that one of the gov. shaft plug-screw ports was stripped (and THAT was definiteky something tha last techie had MISSED!). So now I have to rethread that port and might as well do the other one as well They seal against oil/fuel leaks with copper washers.
 

towbar

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Joined
Jun 13, 2022
Messages
355
Location
Quebec
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retired
ISSUE RESOLVED.

3 overnight soaks in 2-cycle oil; I had also opened up the gov. housing and was lucky to be able to put it back together but it could have cost me a rebuild! Gum and varnish are still in there so I'll use Lucas diesel-treatment in purge mode for a while and then in just preventive mode.

plungers-30degs.png

I have no explanation for this, 300 hours after a rebuild instead of 9,000! I keep my fuel very clean.
 
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