580b leaking fluid between shuttle box and engine

[highpockets]

Ok guys here is my current problem.I have fluid leaking from between the motor and the tranny.One person said it was the gasket.Just split it and replace it.Now somebody else has told me that it could be something else in that same area that is cracked and leaking.Regardless,the gasket is still leaking.But what else should I look at while it is apart?I have never had it apart so I do not know what it looks like.Any ideas? Also what is involved in splitting it besides disconnecting all the necessary hoses etc. How is the engine coupled to the tranny? I was told that it was some kind of gear assembly and that it was a pain.He said the best bet was to put some dowels in and just slide it apart a little bit and cut the gasket to get it on.But I did not get any details on just how those gears couple the torque converter to the crank.Any help or links to instructions,pics,or diagrams for this procedure would be appreciated.Also should it set still at idle in gear or will it try to move? From reading some of the post's here I am sure to get my answers!Thanks in advance.

 

[skata]

i'd guess its a rear main leak on the engine or a torque convertor seal.
do you know if the leak is trans or engine oil? what color is the fluid that's leaking?

 

[Phil]

The engine is coupled to the torque tube with 4 -5/8" bolts and 3- 3/8"bolts(starter) as I recall. I remember the spline connection is a large "ring gear" on the converter and it slips into an internal gear in the flywheel. No problem sliding these together again.

The large gasket you refer to goes on in one piece. After splitting, the engine/ front axle assembly should be rolled ahead about 1 foot to get enough room to work. I'm not sure if the loader will have to be blocked up or not. What equipment do you have, hoist, jacks? Phil

 

[CaptDave]

I haven't done it on anything that big, just some old Farmall's. I did read an article and saw a video on. Just make sure everything is blocked really well, with all that weight if somethings starts to go wrong it will really go wrong.
I agree with Phil, do a complete seperation. Why cut a gasket. That is why you are replacing it in the first place.
Good Luck.

 

[highpockets]

it is

it is tranny fluid.I know that,that area has fluid in it and that gasket is for that.But,like I said some guy that was "supposed to know" was saying that there was something aluminum bolted to steel and sometimed it cracked and leaked.I was just wondering what to look for there.Thanks for the info on the extra large spline set up on the converter.That was what I was wondering about that.I have all the equipment needed to work on it.
Thanks again........

 

[CaptDave]

Good luck and keep up posted on the outcome.

 

[highpockets]

ok..broke it apart replaced the gasket and the leak problem seems to be fixed.
Now new question.If I run it awhile it gets to where it will not move.Shut it off for just a minuet and it will go again.I am suspecting a plugged pickup or something of that sort.What says you? Also,on the shuttle valve,there is another valve control rod beside of the one that is connected to the shuttle shifter.What is that? Thanks for your help so far.

 

[Phil]

The other valve is a dump valve that bypasses oil available for the clutch pack operation. Push the clutch pedal down and the dash gauge will show clutch pack available pressure, dropping off. One purpose of the pedal is for gear changing; it is connected to the brake too. The adjustment is 3.1" from the center of the pin, to the center of the nearest bolt holding the bracket, with the clutch pedal out, I think. Make sure this valve comes out far enough when the clutch pedal is released. Pedal return spring gets weak too.What pressure does your dash gauge show as the machine goes from start up to a no move condition? Phil

 

[highpockets]

ok. Thanks. it is not hooked to anything now.Mine does not have a clutch.Do I need to hook it to the brake? The pressure gauge is not working.I have ordered one.

 

[Phil]

Here is what your 580B linkage should look like. There is a roller bearing in the cam slot.First picture is pedal released. Second picture shows the "clutch" pedal depressed and third picture shows an extra return spring I added to get the pedal back up against the stop when not in use. Phil

 

[shellman14315]

Hey Phil

My clutch on the left is real slow in returning. Is that extra spring just something you worked up or is it avail on the market. Do you know why they are slow to come back up?

Also for everyone, I contacted Quipcal and they have the exact decals($75) for my 1974 580B and found the JI Case "yellow" paint at Van Sickle paint for around $25 a gallon. Thanks to everyone who led me to them. Im ordering tomorrow and hope to get this project done in the next 90 days or so.

Cory

 

[Phil]

Gee, how many decals do you get for $75? That's a great deal on the paint too.
I've had several B's with lazy pedals. Check the pivot point for lube, I've never gone any farther into it and followed the linkage to the brake pedal. Too hard to get at, try oiling any linkage under the steering column. I added a stiff spring to one once, and attached it to a threaded rod fastened down on the side of the main housing. Then tightened it with a nut on the rod, until the pedal returned. Phil

 

[shellman14315]

Hey Phil

Pretty much all the major decals from what I can tell. I tried to attach a picture of them, but don't know if it will work. As for the paint, my first quote was low as that was a different grade of paint. It is $45 a gallon, but they can only send quarts to Calif because of some new law.

 

[Phil]

What a deal, are they black or brown? Someone might think you have a rare factory option. Now that I think about it, the D model might have had a turbo option on it's 207...not sure, but it would look good on the hood. Phil

 

[shellman14315]

The decals can come in either black or brown. I have a round thing that sticks out of the top of the hood and says TURBO on it. You can see it just to the right of the exhaust muffler. I guess it has some kind of turbo. You'd be hard pressed to tell by driving it...lol.

 

[Phil]

I'm definitely going to contact those people about their decal kit, do you have a phone #? The decals in the picture look original on your machine; I'm always perplexed by the right angle to put the 580B sticker on the hood. The 'Turbo' unit looks like a pre cleaner. Never saw one on a B. I believe you can put the 207 liners and pistons in a 188 block but you won't have the larger rod bearings to compliment. The B always was a rather sluggish machine compared to a C and I always figured in my mind it was convertor efficiency, maybe it was a difference in torque available.Phil

 

[shellman14315]

Quipcal.com or call 215-536-5339 You can't purchase off the website so call them. Ask for Colleen. She helped me alot. Their are a couple diffeerent kits for the 580B depending on which one you have. It took a couple tries before she emailed me the one i was looking for. I believe my trctor has original paint and decals. It won't for long. As far as engines, converters, 207 or 188, that is all foreign to me. Im not even sure what engine I have. Just know it runs really well. Purrs like a kitten.

 

[Phil]

Thanks for the #.That's got to be a rare machine that has original paint in that condition. It seems up here in Canada that most B's have had a hard life, if they are still running. Phil