No fuel at the injectors

Coaldust · May 11, 2024

That was nice of you to write all that out, pumpguy.

rocks · May 11, 2024

Thanks for clarification. They are two wires on top of the pump. A yellow and a black.

Coaldust · May 11, 2024

The 201 black should be ground.

thepumpguysc · May 11, 2024

One of the studs will have a ground strap going to one of the screws that hold the top cover down.. THATS THE GROUND — ..
If I had to guess, I’d say the yellow is +.. but I’m not there.

funwithfuel · May 11, 2024

Ain't that the one where the coupler just falls apart and plugs the return fitting with mouse poop?

thepumpguysc · May 11, 2024

Yup..
THATS WHY I toldm to pull the return connector (all the fittings) off the top of the pump..
between making sure the solenoid clicks and pulling the connector, unless it’s seized, she’ll start spitting fuel..

thepumpguysc · May 11, 2024

He autta been done by now..
Unless he can’t find a 9/16 wrench.. lol

rocks · May 14, 2024

Is there a reason for removing all the fittings on top of the pump? Isn't the line fitting sufficient or do you think it could be clogged?
I disconnected the hot wire(yellow) then turned the ignition on and by touching the pump I hear the solenoid clicks.
I did get some fuel out injectors this time, but still no start.
I think I burned the starter as there is no cranking now. I give it another try this weekend and see.
Thanks again

thepumpguysc · May 14, 2024

The 1st fitting in the pump/ the last fitting u would take out, get clogged w “stuff” and creates pressure inside the pump.. NO FUEL OUT= NO FUEL IN..

rocks · May 17, 2024

Now it's the second time I got it to start, but once it shutdown then there is starting again. It revs nice, and all hydraulics equipment are moving.

thepumpguysc · May 17, 2024

Has it started starting AFTER u took the fitting on the top cover out.??
If yes, it probably doesn’t have to many “revs nice” left in her..
Once it’s starts surging, shut it down and pull the pump..

rocks · May 17, 2024

thepumpguysc said:
Has it started starting AFTER u took the fitting on the top cover out.??
If yes, it probably doesn’t have to many “revs nice” left in her..
Once it’s starts surging, shut it down and pull the pump..

Took the top cover fitting off. Cleaned it. It has what it looked like plastic check valve. Cranked the ignition, but no fuel came out from the top fitting of the pump. It came out from the water separator as I also removed the return fitting. Put everything back. Used manual pump, and started the engine. I try it again without the fitting and see. Thanks

thepumpguysc · May 17, 2024

I wouldn’t take it out.. that fitting is the only thing keeping u from buying an engine..
If it keeps clogging up and shutting the engine down, the pump needs to be looked at..
And like I said, once it starts surging, shut it down..
or it’ll shut itself down..& u won’t like how that happens..
Start saving your nickels and dimes now..

rocks · May 19, 2024

thepumpguysc said:
I wouldn’t take it out.. that fitting is the only thing keeping u from buying an engine..
If it keeps clogging up and shutting the engine down, the pump needs to be looked at..
And like I said, once it starts surging, shut it down..
or it’ll shut itself down..& u won’t like how that happens..
Start saving your nickels and dimes now..

What fitting were referring to? I thought you suggested removing the line on top cover of the pump and injectors lines then crank it. Maybe I misunderstood.
I think I also have some electrical issues. I did a continuity test from negative of the battery to the two wires of the pump and both have continuity. Which means they are both grounded? Also, from negative Terminal of the battery to the hot side of the starter and it seems grounded as well.
If I understand it correctly, I have a short somewhere.

thepumpguysc · May 19, 2024

What I was referring to was the fitting on the top cover..
Don’t just take off the line, that won’t show u much if anything..
You have to unscrew the fittings on the top cover and try to start it..
This won’t help with your electrical problem but it will tell u if your pump is on the way out..
Does your top cover have 1 or 2 wires going to it.?
If it’s 1, then that’s your hot side, 12v.. & the ground (-) is going thru the pump.. there should be a ground strap attached to the other stud..
If it has 2, then 1 is hot(12v) and the other is negative.

I was under the impression that you were going to take out that fitting in the top cover because the engine started..
That fitting is kinda, a safety device.. it’ll shut the engine down to let u know when it’s time to o/h the inj pump..
That’s why I said, it’s the only thing keeping your engine in 1 piece..

AllDodge · May 19, 2024

rocks said:
I think I also have some electrical issues. I did a continuity test from negative of the battery to the two wires of the pump and both have continuity. Which means they are both grounded?

If both wires are disconnected and you measured zero resistance on both wires means the solenoid is shorted out and needs replacement

Now if even one of the wires was connected when measuring, then disconnect and measure again

oarwhat · May 20, 2024

A good solenoid will measure low ohms . It might show continuity.

rocks · May 25, 2024

The solenoid might be shorted. I set the multimeter to continuity test(wifi symbol) and it beeps when the two terminals on the pump were touched. Setting it to ohm, and it reads 3.4 ohm. Both wires were disconnected for the test. The hot and the ground.
Now, is there a way to replace just the solenoid without taking out the pump?

AllDodge · May 25, 2024

For me the solenoid reads good. And always use the ohms scale when measuring

thepumpguysc · May 25, 2024

Yes, the solenoid is in the top cover..
The cover can be removed and the solenoid replaced..
Be careful, the screws WILL BREAK if u use to much force..

No fuel at the injectors

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