Questions about replacing the Track speed sensor Cat D5G LGP

[Ncjetskier]

I think I have a bad speed sensor on my Cat D5G (RKG0140). I plan on testing the alternator first and try to pull codes.

If it is the speed sensor, I have several questions;

-the part number has changed and the part seems to have been improved. I have read that it is not "plug and play" and that the new part needs to be "adapted" to fit. What does this mean, and what does it take to make the new part fit (part number 360453)?

Since the new part is "improved" should I replace both sensors?

I have also read that the machine needs to be recalibrated. The machine and it's technology seems to be "old". Is recalibration something that I can do or do I need to spend $1500 - $2,000 to have the dealer perform? Is it worth trying to buy a laptop with the Cat diagnostics and programs?

Thanks for any help.

 

[Nige]

I have also read that the machine needs to be recalibrated. The machine and it's technology seems to be "old". Is recalibration something that I can do or do I need to spend $1500 - $2,000 to have the dealer perform? Is it worth trying to buy a laptop with the Cat diagnostics and programs?

Lots of questions here. Unless you have a laptop with ET plus the hardware Comms Adapter you can't calibrate the machine yourself. The $1500-2000, was this quoted to you by the dealer or is it just your estimate.? It seems very high to me. If you have the facility to transport the machine to the dealer the cost could be significantly less.

My suggestions would be (in order): -
1. Check the fan belt condition/tension, then the alternator output.
2. Pull Codes.

Depending what you find the next steps would be determined.

The speed sensor question can wait until it is determined whether or not they are actually a problem.

 

[ahart]

If you end up needing to change sensors, change them both at the same time. Get the Allen socket bolts clean before trying to remove them, don’t want them stripped out. You will lose oil when sensor is pulled out, drain hydraulic oil or be quick at getting new ones in. Attached are the instructions for the new wiring, you’ll need deutsch crimp pliers to install the sockets on the wires.

 

[Ncjetskier]

HI Nige, the nearest Cat dealer is 1.5 hours away. It does not matter if they are in the area, they are still going to charge you a "trip" charge from the dealer.

The Kobelco dealer is about the same distance. Their service rep lived five miles away from my machine. The service rep jumped out of his truck, looked at my machine and said "this is a project". Jumped back into his truck (never touched a tool) and left. I was charged $1,500. The problem with the machine (at that time) was the previous owner changed the hydraulic lines and put them back incorrectly. It took another company less than an hour to fix the problem.

Anyway - The alternator is putting out 14.39 volts. The track sensor on the driver's side was previously replaced. I ordered two sensors and plan on replacing both. The sensor that had been previously replaced, does not look like any of the replacements (part numbers 360-0453 or the old part numbers 319-6491 or 183-4584). See picture below.

 

[Nige]

Have you checked for Codes yet.?

I'm not 100% but that photo looks like the latest Part Number to me. See below, that's how it comes before the Deutsch pins and connector are added which is the required modification to install the new P/N of sensor.



For that reason I wouldn't suggest buying 2 new sensors of the updated Part Number until you have at least looked at Diagnostic Codes.

 

[Ncjetskier]

You are correct. Codes were 245 and 246 (left track) which is still the old sensor. The rocker switch only malfunctioned once, but I will order a new switch as well. I will wait to replace the right side sensor.

I can not find where it states in the repair manual that re-calibration is required. Am I not looking at the correct place? Thanks.

 

[ahart]

I wouldn’t say it’s required in the sense that it won’t work after you change it, but like anything else, fresh calibration will get any wear accounted for and components controlled properly. It’s one of those “best practice” situations.

 

[Tyler d4c]

Nige any idea when these where last updated last set I replaced still had the connector right on the sensor body. Was 4 or 5 years ago.

 

[Nige]

Nige any idea when these where last updated last set I replaced still had the connector right on the sensor body. Was 4 or 5 years ago.

The Service Mag annoucing the new design of sensor is dated September 2015.

 

[CM1995]

The Kobelco dealer is about the same distance. Their service rep lived five miles away from my machine. The service rep jumped out of his truck, looked at my machine and said "this is a project". Jumped back into his truck (never touched a tool) and left. I was charged $1,500. The problem with the machine (at that time) was the previous owner changed the hydraulic lines and put them back incorrectly. It took another company less than an hour to fix the problem.

Just curious as to why you had the Kobelco dealer look at your D5?

 

[Ncjetskier]

CM1995 - I also own a Kobelco Excavator that needed work.

I spoke to an owner of a land clearing business that only has CAT equipment and lives down the road. He stated the least expensive service call he had was a two minute fix and cost $1,700. Not complaining - it is what it is. But I am retired now and have the time to try to fix my own equipment - of possible.

 

[Ncjetskier]

Nige thanks for your help (previous posts from other members and this post).

Ahart - thanks for the advice - it was spot on.

I ended up ordering the old part number for three reasons;
-It was easier to find and order online
-It was less expensive
-I was able to "plug and play" and did not have to redo a plug.

The installation was kind a a Btch due to the sensor being on the passenger side (located on the front side). I could not remove or replace the sensor from the bottom of the machine due to limited working space. I removed the sensor and replaced it from the back of the machine. You might as well be Helen Keller as you will not see ANYTHING that you are doing. And Ahart - you are correct that once you remove the sensor, it will hemorage hydraulic fluid.

The machine runs much better. Thanks!

 

[Motoguy]

Nige thanks for your help (previous posts from other members and this post).

Ahart - thanks for the advice - it was spot on.

I ended up ordering the old part number for three reasons;
-It was easier to find and order online
-It was less expensive
-I was able to "plug and play" and did not have to redo a plug.

The installation was kind a a Btch due to the sensor being on the passenger side (located on the front side). I could not remove or replace the sensor from the bottom of the machine due to limited working space. I removed the sensor and replaced it from the back of the machine. You might as well be Helen Keller as you will not see ANYTHING that you are doing. And Ahart - you are correct that once you remove the sensor, it will hemorage hydraulic fluid.

The machine runs much better. Thanks!

Did you have to recalibrate after replacing the sensor? I have 2005 d5g lgp that reads 0 rims when looking at live data. It's a third party laptop and not cat et software and I don't think it is capable of doing a recalibrate. Also what was the part number you ordered?

 

[Nige]

Did you have to recalibrate after replacing the sensor? I have 2005 d5g lgp that reads 0 rims when looking at live data. It's a third party laptop and not cat et software and I don't think it is capable of doing a recalibrate. Also what was the part number you ordered?

A few questions first.

Machine Serial Number.
Which side speed sensor is faulting.?
Have you done any diagnostics yet, as in reading Codes.?

 

[Motoguy]

RKG00906 SERIAL #,
I ran it on scanner today and right track was showing rpms and left track was steady on zero during live data scan. At some point though the left track registered 107 rpms. Left track speed sensor is the code I got on the scanner and retrieving flash codes. I had a couple other flash codes but wrote them down, erased them, and ran it again. Left track speed sensor came back. Checked the wrong to the ECM and that all checked good.

 

[Nige]

Checked the wrong to the ECM and that all checked good.

Did you load test the wiring harness or just test the resistance of individual wires.?

What exact Code do you have for the LH Speed sensor. 154-2 or 154-8.?
With the exact Code there will be a troubleshooting procedure that will help to identify the exact nature of the fault.

 

[Motoguy]

Thanks for the quick replies BTW!
The code is 154-8. I did not load test the wires. I found an exert from a service manual that instructed how the test the harness back to the ECM and the only pin it actually called for an ohm reading was the ground(return circuit). All others were voltage tests which everything check comfortably with in specs.

 

[Nige]

The code is 154-8. I did not load test the wires. I found an exert from a service manual that instructed how the test the harness back to the ECM and the only pin it actually called for an ohm reading was the ground(return circuit).

Was it something like the attachment.?

I know Cat says to measure resistance but there have been numerous cases of wires that were literally "hanging on by a thread" that ohmed out within spec but were breaking down under load. That's why, despite what Cat says, on this forum we always recommend load testing the signal wires in any sensor circuit using a fused 5A test light supplied from batt+ connected to one end of the wire and the other end connected to machine frame ground.

There is an updated track speed sensor available for these machines. See the second attachment. You will need additional parts to modify the sensor pigtail connector in order to install the updated part number.

 

[Motoguy]

That's exactly it! I tried going back to find it on Google and couldn't but yep that's the procedure I followed. When you replaced yours did you have to do a recalibration? I'll look into the test light. I've seen that also but typically on "higher" current/voltage applications.

 

[Nige]

It's not necessary to do any sort of re-calibration when replacing a track speed sensor.

When you unplugged the connector at the speed sensor for your testing was it full of oil, or even just traces of oil.? That's a good indication that the sensor is foobarbed.