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Cat 226b thumb wheel switch replacement

quiksilvr

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ok well heres the latest update. i got the switch (htwm-1a11a22) from mouser.com. and its not working at all. i connected a dmm to the switch ground and output wires while it was connected to the skidsteer and engine running i have 8v and when i roll the switch to full travel in either direction, i see no change in voltage at all. HOWEVER, i did manage to fix the old switch by replacing the disintegrated magnet with a different magnet. it works in forward and reverse. YAY! it took me a few hours with a dremel tool and a neodydmium, or however its spelled, magnet. i basically had to trim the magnet into 2 tiny square blocks and super glued them in place making sure that both magnets that were facing downward toward the sensor were the same polarity.
 

quiksilvr

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yea i hope they do something bcuz that switch cost $100 delivered to my door lol
 

Nige

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G..G..G..Granville.........!! Fetch your cloth.
Well there's something straight off. Required supply voltage is in the range of 4.5-5.5v DC with 5v being the target figure.
In a Cat SSL the switch is being supplied with a stabilized 8v DC supply produced internally within the ECM.
Do you have any way of supplying it with 5v DC and see how it behaves then.?

Also try connecting a DMM between the switch "output signal" wire and machine frame ground instead of the stabliized power ground that you connected it to before. See if that makes any difference.

Not sure about the voltage output options TBH. Can you measure the voltage from your repaired switch at 3 positions (centre, full FWD, & full REV) and post up the results.
 

quiksilvr

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ya know i was thinking the same thing. ill see what i can do as far as supplying it with 5v. as for the ground, i tried ground at the switch and the machine ground and the reading was the same. i will take measurements of the repaired switch and post them here in a lil bit
 

quiksilvr

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ok well i supplied the NEW switch with 5.08vdc, and the readings i got at center: 2.89vdc, full forward: 4.52vdc and full reverse: .508vdc
 

quiksilvr

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yea ur right about that. i guess i didnt do my homework as well as i thought i had. interestingly enough, on the old switch being modified, with the supply voltage obviously being 8vdc the voltage on the output wire was 5vdc@ center, 6vdc@ full forward and 4vdc@ full reverse. so the internals of the switch must have a voltage regulator? but none the less, i have no choice but to eat the cost of this switch and chalk it up as a lesson learned.
 

quiksilvr

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so i guess the trick is going to be locating a similar switch that will function with 8vdc supply.
 

Nige

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yea ur right about that. i guess i didnt do my homework as well as i thought i had. interestingly enough, on the old switch being modified, with the supply voltage obviously being 8vdc the voltage on the output wire was 5vdc@ center, 6vdc@ full forward and 4vdc@ full reverse. so the internals of the switch must have a voltage regulator? but none the less, i have no choice but to eat the cost of this switch and chalk it up as a lesson learned.
Or contact the switch manufacturer and inform them that you have an application where, due to machine on-board limitations, the supply to the switch MUST be 8v DC rather than 5v, and ask them if they can suggest a solution. You could also mention that it is a piece of mobile equipment that you are talking about.
 

quiksilvr

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im on their site now looking to see if they have any listed. ill contact them and ask. im about 99.9% certain its made by otto, because the trigger switch on that same joystick says otto on it. why this switch doesnt have any markings is beyond me
 

quiksilvr

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Mine is completely missing unfortunately.
the entire switch? damn that sucks. i do know that the maker of the switch is otto, at least mine was. i gave up looking after i fixed my switch. u can try contacting them. the switch needs to be designed to operate with an 8vdc power source. all the switches on their website are designed for 5vdc power source, so they wont work. i already tried one of them and ended up wasting around $100. lol
 

quiksilvr

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mad scientist
yes, mine had 5.72v at center, 3.93v forward full travel and 4.94v reverse full travel. those were the initial readings prior to repairing the switch. i did not take any measurements after the repair tho.
 
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