What's your hoe doing?

[aighead]

2004 Lb75b. I just found a video for a 2001 and I think I can find that third bolt but I'm still not sure how to release the wires where they are. I could cut the side of that shield thing out, if I can get in there with an oscillating tool...

 

[Swetz]

aighead, I feel like all you need to do is remove the fuel pump. The 3rd bolt is prolly behind the starter as eKretz said. This is a very common mounting.

 

[colson04]

2004 Lb75b. I just found a video for a 2001 and I think I can find that third bolt but I'm still not sure how to release the wires where they are. I could cut the side of that shield thing out, if I can get in there with an oscillating tool...

It's not uncommon to remove the starter bolts, swing starter down a bit, then remove the electrical wires from the solenoid. I would see if I could get that third starter bolt out by feel and touch, and then wiggle it down to a spot where I could better access the wiring. I have never done one on a NewHolland though, so there may be more too it.

 

[MarcusZ1967]

Seems here lately, feel is the only way I've been removing starters.

Haven't tackled a BH tho I did a pull and install on the 175C.

 

[cosmaar1]

Well, I'm finally doing it!

I went out and it was pretty chilly around noon today, tried firing up the hoe, to raise the loader bucket and tadaa! She fired right up! Got the loader raised and out of the way (I can't imagine trying this with the arm blocking the engine) and I'm making an attempt at changing the starter.

It's gone reasonably well through 2 bolts (and getting some stuff like the fuel filter off and out of the way) but now I'm stuck... I've needed about every 1/16th of an inch I can get to get the tools in there. So I've got at least one thing in the way, if I could remove it I can then see, really, where I stand.

So, there's this thing, that was at the top of the fuel filter. I see the 2 hex bolts there (red) but also the cap thing (yellow). I'm not sure, after looking at it that the he bolts will really release that whole thing (either teal or orange)?

View attachment 324136

If that black cap makes it possible to remove the teal circled part I think that give clearance to get to one of the wires on the starter to unbolt it (red arrow), seen below, I'm not sure how to get to it otherwise. Then, I have the trouble of the third bolt. I don't even know where it is. I can't see it from underneath either. I've got the two bolts removed (or broken, in regards to the top one) in the direction of the yellow arrows).

View attachment 324138

Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks, as always. I took Monday and Tuesday off work as I anticipated some frustration with the job. So far it's been smoother than expected but I think reinstalling will be a drag too...

The black screw cap thing will allow you to remove the fuel pump. It will also have an electrical connector. I’m a pro at doing this unfortunately.

The hex bolts I believe remove the housing. I have not taken that apart.

 

[cosmaar1]

2004 Lb75b. I just found a video for a 2001 and I think I can find that third bolt but I'm still not sure how to release the wires where they are. I could cut the side of that shield thing out, if I can get in there with an oscillating tool...

I would imagine this is quite similar? Fast forward to the starter removal part.

 

[Toolslinger]

What's the hoe doing?...
Well the MF202 is slowly returning to the earth... Hoe hydraulics are a trainwreck, and the frame has some serious cancer... Front end is good as it's indoors. Will try to rehome it in the spring I suspect since I got the 310.
The JD310 (we ain't got no letters here... just the original 310) is mostly sitting, and dripping. Still new to me, and chasing the major issues before I put it to work. Got about 1/3 of the lines replaced on the hoe now, so it's useable. Need to probably take care of a few up front on the loader/4 Way to make me comfortable. Need to sort out some of the pins/bushings/buckets to make it acceptable, but I'm not overly stressed about that currently. Looking forward to a machine with a full cab and heater. Haven't even had a canopy or rops before... (sadly ROPS will not fit in the barn, so I can't retrofit)

 

[NH575E]

Well, I'm finally doing it!

I went out and it was pretty chilly around noon today, tried firing up the hoe, to raise the loader bucket and tadaa! She fired right up! Got the loader raised and out of the way (I can't imagine trying this with the arm blocking the engine) and I'm making an attempt at changing the starter.

It's gone reasonably well through 2 bolts (and getting some stuff like the fuel filter off and out of the way) but now I'm stuck... I've needed about every 1/16th of an inch I can get to get the tools in there. So I've got at least one thing in the way, if I could remove it I can then see, really, where I stand.

So, there's this thing, that was at the top of the fuel filter. I see the 2 hex bolts there (red) but also the cap thing (yellow). I'm not sure, after looking at it that the he bolts will really release that whole thing (either teal or orange)?

View attachment 324136

If that black cap makes it possible to remove the teal circled part I think that give clearance to get to one of the wires on the starter to unbolt it (red arrow), seen below, I'm not sure how to get to it otherwise. Then, I have the trouble of the third bolt. I don't even know where it is. I can't see it from underneath either. I've got the two bolts removed (or broken, in regards to the top one) in the direction of the yellow arrows).

View attachment 324138

Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks, as always. I took Monday and Tuesday off work as I anticipated some frustration with the job. So far it's been smoother than expected but I think reinstalling will be a drag too...

The black cap and the thing above it is the pre pump. If you can get the cap to loosen you can remove the pre pump and have better access to the Allen head bolts. Mine didn't feel like it wanted to come loose and I removed the Allen head bolts a quarter turn at the time with a ball end Allen wrench. I had to alternate between the bolts and remove the assembly as they loosened. That left the Allen head bolts trapped so they had to be put back in the same way.

When I did mine I found the wires to the pre pump had corroded apart and fixed them so it worked. I had run my machine a couple of years without the pre pump even running.

At least one of the starter bolts will have to be removed by the brail method. I want to think mine had nuts behind the bell housing but that may have just been the one that had the cab ground wire attached to it.

HERE is the listing for DBELECTRICAL for the starter. I want to say their phot is mirrored but not sure. I won't have time this morning but if I think about it this afternoon I will take a picture of my old one and attach it.

 

[aighead]

You guys rock. Lots of good info there, I appreciate. I'm going to head back out in a bit to try to get that last bolt.

 

[MarcusZ1967]

You guys rock. Lots of good info there, I appreciate. I'm going to head back out in a bit to try to get that last bolt.

Braille method.... I'll have to remember that phrase. Here's hoping you have longish arms.

 

[HarleyHappy]

WTF engineer decided to put all that crap in front of the starter.
What a hellish job, I feel vindicated because I put the rear emergency brake pads on the shelf after I took the brake caliper and rotor off and took a look at the hardware on my Jeep Wrangler.
Some jobs you need to do, some get put on the decade back burner.

 

[aighead]

Success! It took several extensions on the ratchet and the braille method but I found it no problem. Wiggled it, just a little bit, then had access to the bolt at the end of the solenoid. Wiggled it and flipped it around, gear side up and it fell right through the bottom of the machine! It'll be interesting to see how it goes putting the new one in.



I'm going to get risky and attempt to put in the block heater while I'm here. Does this spot look acceptable?

 

[HarleyHappy]

Certainly, just make sure to mark the heater if it’s not already to make sure it’s installed in the correct orientation, up or down does make a difference.
Remember that there will be a pigtail coming out and it’s somewhat easy to direct to one side or the other.
My case has a small hinged door to check the oil so I use that to hook my extension cord to, that attached to a Wi-Fi receptacle, so I can tun it on or set a timer with my phone and check the oil most times.
You could also use the other freeze plug that in the corner of that photo but try and stay as centered as possible.

 

[aighead]

Done and done. Fingering around in the hole this is the only orientation that worked.

 

[Fasttrack]

Done and done. Fingering around in the hole this is the only orientation that worked.

I feel like this is a dirty joke just waiting to be written...

 

[aighead]

G spot!

 

[Welder Dave]

At least there was only the one hole to worry about.

 

[Swetz]

Awesome aighead!!!


Don't plug in the heater until the cooling system is purged! They don't like heating air so much!!


Now the million dollar question....does your hoe start now?

 

[aighead]

I had to take out thw old starter to figure out what I needed for the new one. I'm going to look for one locally but I assume I won't find it so maybe next weekend for reinstall. I've got to go back to work tomorrow, so it may be a bit.

 

[Swetz]

oh, I thought you already had the new 1.

As mentioned above, DB electrical is a good source. I have purchased alternators and starters from them in the past.

Starter for Ford 3430 1990-1998, 3930 1990-1999, 4630 1990-1999, 4830 1990-1994 478109

Shop for the Starter For Ford 3430 90-98, 3930 90-99, 4630 90-99, 4830 90-94 478109 at DB Electrical. The best selection, low prices, fast shipping, and great customer service.

www.dbelectrical.com