TL130 pilot enable override

[Tacocoochie]

Having a major electrical problem with my TL130, it’s stuck in a very awkward place to effect any meaningful diagnostics and needs to be removed under its own power.

Problem was sudden onset on a working machine, and seems to be related to the control relays potentially not getting adequate power, unfortunately this machine has been re-wired by an imbecile and nothing matches the factory wiring diagram. It will crank and the engine will run for short periods (up to about 2 minutes) then conk out as if the fuel solenoid has been pulled. When engine runs the pilot hydraulics are not enabled so there is no ability to move the machine.

The seat bar switch is working, the triple relay units work when tested out of the machine.

I believe there is a bypass plug for the pilot enable solenoid on the machine, like there is for the emergency cut-off on the computer, but haven’t found it or where to find it. Does anyone know where this bypass plug is? Or, the location of the pilot enable solenoid so I can bypass it directly? Just need to run the machine long enough to get on a truck.

 

[heymccall]

No bypass for pilot. If you remove this, do NOT lose the small pin/ rod within.


Before taking it off, can you simply 12 volt it and see if you get hydraulics?

 

[Tacocoochie]

Thanks for the quick response

Yeah that’s what I meant by bypassing it, electrically not hydraulically - I read somewhere there was a bullet connector on the machine that was a service override for the pilot enable, and another to override the computers emergency shutdown of the engine (for oil/temp/coolant/hydro level sensors), guess not.

Because none of the wiring coming into the cab matches the wiring diagram, I have no easy way of figuring out what wires are actually hooked up to the pilot solenoid without lifting the cab (which is going to be a hurdle in its own right), so I wanted to just physically find the solenoid so I could hook up my 12v bypass as close to the actual solenoid as possible to avoid spending hours continuity testing.

Had looked at the parts manual but couldn’t figure out which of the parts listed just as ‘solenoid’ was the pilot enable.

God it’s a great machine but I could kill whoever messed with the wiring, it’s a nightmare.

 

[heymccall]

Actually, there is a pilot override. Not sure where it is.
If you read this TL150 diagram, it is dead center and down just a bit.
I dont have a TL130 diagram.

 

[Tacocoochie]

Yeah it has the same bullet override on the TL130 diagram but I haven’t found anyone that knows where it actually is sadly. Thanks for the help.

 

[heymccall]

Open the back door. Follow the harness inward from the door mounted fuel pump. If untouched, there'll be yellow tape on one set, and blue tape on the other jumper set.
The ones under the yellow tape are the pilot lockout bypass.

 

[azvacs]

Having a major electrical problem with my TL130, it’s stuck in a very awkward place to effect any meaningful diagnostics and needs to be removed under its own power.

Problem was sudden onset on a working machine, and seems to be related to the control relays potentially not getting adequate power, unfortunately this machine has been re-wired by an imbecile and nothing matches the factory wiring diagram. It will crank and the engine will run for short periods (up to about 2 minutes) then conk out as if the fuel solenoid has been pulled. When engine runs the pilot hydraulics are not enabled so there is no ability to move the machine.

The seat bar switch is working, the triple relay units work when tested out of the machine.

I believe there is a bypass plug for the pilot enable solenoid on the machine, like there is for the emergency cut-off on the computer, but haven’t found it or where to find it. Does anyone know where this bypass plug is? Or, the location of the pilot enable solenoid so I can bypass it directly? Just need to run the machine long enough to get on a truck.

I have a TL130 that the wiring was a mess when I bought it. I tried to repair it many times. I even removed the entire harness to make repairs but still had issues. There were a lot of diodes and connection point problems. Plus, trying to trace wires was impossible. I finally broke down and bought an entirely new wiring harness. Pricey but worth it. No more weird electrical issues, now just hydraulic issues, but that's a different story

 

[Tacocoochie]

I have a TL130 that the wiring was a mess when I bought it. I tried to repair it many times. I even removed the entire harness to make repairs but still had issues. There were a lot of diodes and connection point problems. Plus, trying to trace wires was impossible. I finally broke down and bought an entirely new wiring harness. Pricey but worth it. No more weird electrical issues, now just hydraulic issues, but that's a different story

I think the harness is mostly good, the problem is centered around the fuse box. At some point there has been a problem localized there that has caused someone to rip the original fuse box out and do a really crap job of rewiring it, presumably without a wiring diagram for the machine. They’ve cobbled it together until the machine worked and left it at that. I could probably fix all the problems if I rewire the fuse box myself, but I wouldn’t want to do that without cracking the machine open so I can continuity test and trace everything to confirm what comes into the fuse box matches what it’s meant to be attached to.

 

[azvacs]

I think the harness is mostly good, the problem is centered around the fuse box. At some point there has been a problem localized there that has caused someone to rip the original fuse box out and do a really crap job of rewiring it, presumably without a wiring diagram for the machine. They’ve cobbled it together until the machine worked and left it at that. I could probably fix all the problems if I rewire the fuse box myself, but I wouldn’t want to do that without cracking the machine open so I can continuity test and trace everything to confirm what comes into the fuse box matches what it’s meant to be attached to.

I still have my original harness. Let me check tomorrow and see if the fuse block portion is intact.

 

[azvacs]

I think the harness is mostly good, the problem is centered around the fuse box. At some point there has been a problem localized there that has caused someone to rip the original fuse box out and do a really crap job of rewiring it, presumably without a wiring diagram for the machine. They’ve cobbled it together until the machine worked and left it at that. I could probably fix all the problems if I rewire the fuse box myself, but I wouldn’t want to do that without cracking the machine open so I can continuity test and trace everything to confirm what comes into the fuse box matches what it’s meant to be attached to.

Update… I had a chance to look at my original wiring harness and I’ve attached a couple of pictures. Hope it helps

 

[Tacocoochie]

Update… I had a chance to look at my original wiring harness and I’ve attached a couple of pictures. Hope it helps

Thank you for the pics - I’ll start working on the harness/fuse box in a week or so once I get the machine running and off this site, if I need detail on anything I’ll reach out.