Deere CT332 Won't Start

[MoCat]

I have a 2005 John Deere CT332. It's always started right off in the past. I haven't run it in about a month so I tried to start it the other day but there wasn't any electrical power. I figured it was a dead battery so I tried to jump start it but I couldn't get it to turn over. It would try to turn over on the jump start but run out of enough juice to turn over. I figured the bad battery was still preventing it from starting so I got a new one. I can't get the old battery out with the lift arms down so I disconnected the old battery and connected the new battery via jumper cables to the battery cables on the machine. Figured I'd start the machine using the new battery, raise the lift arms, locked them in the up position, shut down the machine and then switch out batteries. It still wouldn't start with the new battery. I checked the glow plug 80a fuse because I've had problems in the past with it blowing and yep, it was blown. So replaced it and tried again. The dash lights lit right up. I turned key to energize the glow plug, then once glow plug icon dims I go to crank it and all electrical goes dead. No more dash lights... nada. If I disconnect and then reconnect the battery, the dash lights will come back on and I can go through the same routine with the same results. I checked the starter key switch and it seems to be working ok, replaced a corroded looking relay and swapped out the rest of the relays with known good ones but still no start. All electrical just goes dead when I turn the key. I can't even get the glow plug to energize. I ran the diagnostic codes on the dash and received two: F9P8 (google search leads me to believe this code means "parking brake open or shorted circuit") and F965 (I believe this code means "fuel level sensor input high"). Can anyone verify the meaning of these diagnostic codes to confirm what they mean? Could either of these codes cause the symptoms I'm experiencing? Could the F965 code be caused by a bad fuel shut off solenoid? My next step is to try to trace the parking brake solenoid circuit to determine if there's a short or open circuit. I also still need to troubleshoot the fuel shut off solenoid. Anyone else ever experience this issue with a Deere? If so, how did you fix it? Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[NCPIPELINE]

May be relevant, may not. I had a bobcat with a bad fuel solenoid and it had the same symptoms. Replaced and all was good.

 

[buckfever]

We have a ct 332 and never had this problem. I did have the same thing happen to our dump. Being that the lift pump is a real pain to get to and the pressure pump is even worse I'd look at the relay.

When you crank the motor over do you get any smoke out of the exaust? If you have a leak in one of the fuel lines they might have bled off while sitting and you basicly need to prime the pump.

I know if you run these machines out of fuel they take a loooooot of cranking to fire back up.

 

[MoCat]

Thanks for sharing your experience with a fuel solenoid NCPipeline. Sounds like you had a similar issue and the new fuel solenoid fixed it.

 

[MoCat]

Thanks buckfever. Unfortunately I checked the relays first and they were all good. I've had that happen too where the fuel lines bleed down while sitting and you have to prime again. My machine won't even crank the motor right now. As soon as I turn the key all electrical shuts off. I'm guessing the computer causes it to shut off as some kind of protection due to the error diagnostic codes.

I wish I could say I never had it happen but I've run it out of fuel too and it was a major pain to get the ct332 primed and restarted. Not near as bad as my experience priming a diesel ford tractor years ago. I couldn't get the fuel pump to prime so in a last ditch effort I put my mouth to the fuel line and assisted. I think I can still taste the diesel fuel today. Nothing like a mouth full of diesel when you're already bummed out by mechanical problems. That ford tractor didn't have the nice plunger manual pumps like today's equipment.

I put a call into the local dealer and hope the service tech calls back as she promised to confirm the meaning of my diagnostic codes. I guess I might as well price out a new fuel solenoid when she calls back.

 

[Wick]

G'day MoCat, it may sound stupid but have you checked your jumper leads, I have seen some jumper leads initially conduct power but when loaded further will open circuit this can be especially prevalent on crap quality leads that use steel brass plated clamps that get a little rusty, plus it is often difficult to get enough power and hence enough cranking speed through jumper leads alone to the battery. - sometimes the simple things can get overlooked.

cheers

 

[MoCat]

Good advice Wick! I'll definitely recheck them but I'm fairly certain that they're flowing adequate juice. Still, that's a good idea to first rule out the jumper leads as the problem.

 

[MoCat]

Well I finally got the Deere running :thumbsup and guess what? Wick, you were right! :notworthy It was the jumper cables! :yup The jumpers were conducting juice but they evidently weren't conducting enough juice so that when I'd switch the key on, all electric would go dead. Like I said in my OP, I couldn't get the old battery out and the new one in because the lift arms were in the way ... but I managed to get the machine's battery cables extended just enough to slip them on the new battery with the new battery supported on a makeshift table right up next to the machine (old battery was still in the machine). Once started I could raise the arms to finally get the old battery out and the new one in. I've never seen a machine just shut off like that for lack of amperage. Usually they will try to crank or click the relays. What a relief when it finally started! Thanks everyone (especially Wick) for all your advice! Hope I might be able to help someone on here someday. Maybe this post will do just that. Here's some pics of her.
new battery
her idling and stretching her arms

 

[tool_king]

I have list of the codes .I will sent you link for them so you have them .Some times they are listedc in the operators manual but not all the time .I have found this in the past.

 

[MoCat]

Thanks tool_king! I would sure appreciate that. You're right. I have the Operation and Repair Manual, but mine doesn't contain the codes. I think the codes are definitely in the Test Manuals, which are pretty pricey. Here's a link to John Deere's site where those manuals can be purchased and downloaded in case anyone is looking for them:
CT332 Manuals

To tell you the truth I haven't been very impressed with the JD manual I have. There are a lot of things that it doesn't cover and when it does, it lacks clarity. However, I've been very happy with my local dealer and their service department. They have been extremely helpful with part orders and generous with their time giving service advice.

 

[tool_king]

The older operators book has them .I also have the repair and test manuals is anyone needs them in pdf form.

 

[tool_king]

Here is a list of the codes.Download link.

http://www.4shared.com/photo/QJRu63rp/100_1276.html

These will work on 317,325 and CT332
Guys feel free if you need repair manual or operation and parts book .I have them in pdf form.Just email me.
Thanks
ED

 

[rewheeler]

I would really like the test manual in PDF if possible to [email protected].

Thanks!

 

[djjdave1]

I could use a copy of the repair and test manuals for a ct322 track loader

The older operators book has them .I also have the repair and test manuals is anyone needs them in pdf form.

I could sure use a copy of the repair and test manuals for a ct322 loader
thanks
dave

 

[tool_king]

djjdave1
What is you email address?

 

[tool_king]

rewheeler
manuals sent to you.

 

[djjdave1]

[email protected] Thanks Dave

 

[Critical Path]

I would really appreciate those pdf ct332 manuals as well. Thanks Tool king! [email protected]

 

[tool_king]

djjdave1 and Critical Path
I sent you both the manuals.Took four emails each to sent it to you .
Thanks
ED

 

[bucketboy]

tool_king is there anyway that you can send out one more set to [email protected] I happen to be looking for
test manuals and code . already found and downloaded op manual. I brought used ct332 as is, first five minutes blew all
the hyd fluid out rh drive, got it fixed w/o manual, two days later blew hyd line to same drive, (brought a bunch of new
wrenches i thought i would never need) and right now I'm pasting all the troubles and fixes from this forum to review when
the inevitable happens. any I would surely appreciate if you could send them to me. thanks.