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Boom drifting

Ejp

Active Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2024
Messages
37
Location
Jamestown
I am going to try to send these pictures. I hope they are the ones you wanted. They are all the valves that are under the operating sticks. The two hoses on the right are for the boom.
 

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willie59

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Dec 21, 2008
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Knoxville TN
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Hard to say looking at the pic, but the port relief valve cartridges will be located when the red arrow is pointing, there will be one on each side of the valve section in question.
 

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Ejp

Active Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2024
Messages
37
Location
Jamestown
Yes, all hoses our original except for one, but they are holding at the time I guess I will take the housing around the valves off to get a better look and be able to put my hands in there at this point
 

Ejp

Active Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2024
Messages
37
Location
Jamestown
I had more time so I took some of the covering off the valves. Hopefully these photos will be better. The second one in on the right is the boom cylinder. I cleanedthem off with a little fuel, but I will pressure wash them before I go any further.
 

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Toolslinger

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Oct 9, 2019
Messages
64
Location
PA
Having just done all those hoses on a 310, I wish you luck getting to the port reliefs on the bottom... There's just not a lot of room to work on anything in there...
 

Ejp

Active Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2024
Messages
37
Location
Jamestown
Having just done all those hoses on a 310, I wish you luck getting to the port reliefs on the bottom... There's just not a lot of room to work on anything in there...
With todays prices where is the best place to purchase new hoses?
 

Welder Dave

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2014
Messages
14,460
Location
Canada
Maybe a farm supply that does hoses but could check local hyd. shops. Just make sure whoever makes them cleans them out after assembly with foam projectiles. If they don't you'll need to clean them. There are good places to order online if you know the length and fitting sizes. I prefer getting hoses made local to match existing hoses.
 

Toolslinger

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Joined
Oct 9, 2019
Messages
64
Location
PA
Well, most tractor repair places, some Napa's, any hydraulic shop should be able to hook you up. Best is relitive. I first went to a local guy that does them inexpensively. After over 4 weeks without hoses, I picked the old ones up, and went to a hose shop. Had them done in 15 minutes. Price points are obviously different...
 

Ejp

Active Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2024
Messages
37
Location
Jamestown
Well, today I took the lower covering from the bottom of the valves off to get more room and discovered a few things
And clean the area up a little better have some pictures coming. I took the machine out because I had cleaned the hoses so well I wanted to work it and see if I were able to see any leaks. I ran it for sometime. Everything stayed about the same brought it back in, I looked at it a little closer from lower point of view and discovered a dripping leak on the boom cylinder area behind where the handles might be anyway it’s on the picture. I don’t really know what it’s for. I wanna dig in to that area, but have never done that and wondering if I should disconnect the hoses or is there a possibility when I take the top nut off and can get at the inside?
No experience on these valves I will send these two pictures. I have a nice 25 second video which I can’t seem to send. Maybe the forum does not accept videos. I don’t know what that egg shaped nut in the back is about. It looks like it could have an O-ring at the bottom.
 

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Ejp

Active Member
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Oct 31, 2024
Messages
37
Location
Jamestown
Sent the wrong picture this one shows where the nut is located in relationship
 

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willie59

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Dec 21, 2008
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Location
Knoxville TN
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Ejp

Active Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2024
Messages
37
Location
Jamestown
That acorn nut looking thing (item #1 in the link provided) is the cap that gives access to the valve spool centering springs. And yes there's an o-ring in there that seals the valve spool, obviously that one is bad, and that can cause your boom drift it that's the side of the valve that operators boom raise. > https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/19271/referrer/navigation/pgId/2296263
Yes that’s on the same side as the Boom lever I’m wondering is there any other things inside? I imagine that the O-ring comes with the nut. I haven’t had a chance to look at the website. do you know of a way I can send you the 25 second video of the acorn leaking, it’s very slow lthere must be another way that the fluid is leaking from the boom as well. The way it spudders makes you think that there must be some air inside there also?
 

Welder Dave

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Messages
14,460
Location
Canada
That leak you discovered is likely the cause of your boom drift. You could look if oil could be running down a hose or somewhere above the valve. If you go to take the acorn nut off put the bucket on the ground and operate the boom lever in both directions after you shut the machine off to relief any pressure in the circuit. You might be able to just change the O-ring. Would need to look closely at the acorn nut. Put a little oil on the O-ring when you install it. Make sure nothing else falls out when you take the nut off. Are you running it at higher RPM when using the hoe? The shuddering could be from too low of RPM or how you're operating the controls. Backhoes work best when 2 or more functions are operated at the same time.
 
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Ejp

Active Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2024
Messages
37
Location
Jamestown
Thank you for sticking with me. I am totally mind boggled at looking for parts in the HTTPS /parts catalog for the proper parts that I need to order. I have one acorn cap a U41892, number one number 10 32240 O-rings three needed number 15 R27928 O ring one needed or Number 16 a kit a AU13653. Sounds like a leakage kit of some kind. Could you please help me in regards to what actual parts I should order. (1) can I disconnect the oil lines in front of the acorn valve so I have room to remove it? (2) is it possible that my pressure washer ruined that little O-ring at the bottom of the acorn not? Thanks
 

Welder Dave

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Willie can probably better explain what parts you need. May only need the Acorn nut if it only comes with the O-ring attached. Pressure washer wouldn't have damaged the 0-ring.
 

Ejp

Active Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2024
Messages
37
Location
Jamestown
Tried to take it apart this afternoon had to disconnect all the hoses to get to the acorn nut finally got it off doesn’t look too bad although there is a chip on the corner of the plastic. There is a picture you’ll see, but I can’t find one anywhere on the website that came on the forum said they’re not available anymore, can’t find one on eBay for a replacement so then I tried to take the rest of it out and you’ll see a picture there too. There’s a nut underneath the spring that I tightened up, but and I tried to loosen it also and can’t get the whole spool out because it hits the bottom of the back hole floor , not doing too well. I was hoping to at least replace the number 10 O-rings and the number 15 O-ring then towards the bottom of the website was a kit AU 13653. That sounded like it may have been a leakage repair kit.? But that kit may have been those O-rings mentioned above in a special group
 

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willie59

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If possible I strongly advise contacting a Deere dealer for those parts. The link that I posted may not be your exact valve as there are a number of different control valves listed for your machine. I simply posted a link to one so you could see what you're getting in to. I don't know the valve and can't tell by the parts diagram, but the spool o-ring seals is what's causing your leak, item #10. On some valves you can easily replace the o-ring. On others, the o-ring fits in a groove machined inside the valve body and requires pulling the spool back far enough to replace the o-ring. I can't tell which yours is.

Edit: I see you posted while I was typing.
 

willie59

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Did that o-ring just slip out when you pulled the spool downward? Can you get a pic of the top of the bore where the linkage hooks up?
 

Ejp

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Joined
Oct 31, 2024
Messages
37
Location
Jamestown
Yes, the one O-ring came down when I started pulling the shaft out forgive the fact that it’s so dirty as I couldn’t see up there and when I took the top plate off, that’s what I saw but I was careful not to get any inside. I hope these Photos will help. Is it possible to take it out through the top, I am worried about that spring.
 

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