• Thank you for visiting HeavyEquipmentForums.com! Our objective is to provide industry professionals a place to gather to exchange questions, answers and ideas. We welcome you to register using the "Register" icon at the top of the page. We'd appreciate any help you can offer in spreading the word of our new site. The more members that join, the bigger resource for all to enjoy. Thank you!

2009 Bobcat E60

materthegreater

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 25, 2012
Messages
1,116
Location
VT
I finished the dirt work for a small greenhouse foundation that I dug out in October. Tight quarters with the garage on one side and apple trees on the other. I definitely would have used the Mecalac if I had a tilt bucket for it. The Bobcat does have a little more reach though, which was nice for adding material on the far side of the foundation.

PXL_20241008_191743049~2.jpg

1000007784.jpg

1000007785.jpg

1000007786.jpg
 

materthegreater

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 25, 2012
Messages
1,116
Location
VT
Most others I've done have had a bolt or just a nylock nut. I've never seen one before where the piston threaded onto the rod. This is the first cushioned cylinder I've had apart also. Neat to see how that works.

View attachment 304676

View attachment 304677

View attachment 304678

Well sometimes you get what you pay for. This boom cylinder started leaking again when the weather got cold. Not sure why, I used OEM seals and it was fine for 9 months. I'm certainly no expert but I don't think I put the seals in wrong. It's leaking at the rod, same as before I replaced the seals.
 

materthegreater

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 25, 2012
Messages
1,116
Location
VT
I'm revisiting the aux hydraulic controls on this machine again. The abrupt on/off is really frustrating at times. I found this diagram when searching for slider/rocker controls for the joystick grips.

Sure grip control diagram.png

I currently have an unused spool section in the main valve that is controlled by a foot pedal. Seems like I could replace the foot pedal valve with a proportional pilot valve (or install in series with the foot pedal valve). The handle and driver board are available from Sure Grip, so it seems like a fairly simple way to go if I can find a compatible pilot valve.

What I'm having trouble understanding is the PWM output specs:
Sure grip control board specs.png
Does Vmax=Vs mean that the maximum PWM output voltage is the same as the input voltage, and therefore if I use a 12v supply voltage, I can use this with any 12v solenoid valve?

Looking at the Bailey Hydraulics website gives some options: motor center, tandem center, open, closed, series, parallel, I understand some of these terms (I think), but what do I want for this setup? Many of these valves seem much larger than needed for a pilot circuit, maybe I'm searching with the wrong terms.

Is something like this what I need?
 

materthegreater

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 25, 2012
Messages
1,116
Location
VT
The foot valve only controls one aux circuit. If this works, I will either duplicate or move it to the other aux, which does not have a foot valve.
 

Welder Dave

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2014
Messages
15,007
Location
Canada
Don't think you need the piece going length wise. Ice lugs are just welded on top of the grousers even on D11's. Just put a good weld on each side with 7018 or equivalent. I'd use 3/16" rods but 5/32" or 3 passes with 1/8" would work. Putting the lugs on a bit of an angle would be a good idea. It would help prevent slipping sideways. Were the holes already in the pads?
 

materthegreater

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 25, 2012
Messages
1,116
Location
VT
Don't think you need the piece going length wise.... Putting the lugs on a bit of an angle would be a good idea. It would help prevent slipping sideways.
Sideways slippage is part of the reason I put one piece going lengthwise, as well as to tie the other pieces together.

....Just put a good weld on each side with 7018 or equivalent. I'd use 3/16" rods but 5/32" or 3 passes with 1/8" would work....Were the holes already in the pads?

I used 0.035" metal core wire at 23-24 volts. Yes there are holes in the pads. I plan to remove these cleats when not needed.
 

Columbo

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 31, 2021
Messages
437
Location
New Hampshire
Sideways slippage is part of the reason I put one piece going lengthwise, as well as to tie the other pieces together.



I used 0.035" metal core wire at 23-24 volts. Yes there are holes in the pads. I plan to remove these cleats when not needed.
Clever idea! Make up a jig and bang out a couple dozen when the weather is crappy outside?
 

Welder Dave

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2014
Messages
15,007
Location
Canada
I suppose if someone wanted a super simple solution for ice lugs they could just put long bolts in the holes maybe tapering the ends.
 

materthegreater

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 25, 2012
Messages
1,116
Location
VT
So, how are the idler you bought holding up? are they eBay idlers or local dealer?

Asking because I'll be doing those idlers on my 50ZTS here pretty soon.

They seem to be holding up well. They don't have a ton of hours on them yet though. I bought them from Midwest Equipment.
 

Welder Dave

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2014
Messages
15,007
Location
Canada
Grade 8 or higher bolts break before bending. Wouldn't want them too long though. If someone had a lathe they could make a larger diameter pin with either external or internal threads to bolt them on. A mini-ex isn't putting as much stress on the pads as a dozer would and has lower ground pressure.
 

materthegreater

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 25, 2012
Messages
1,116
Location
VT
Grade 8 or higher bolts break before bending. Wouldn't want them too long though. If someone had a lathe they could make a larger diameter pin with either external or internal threads to bolt them on. A mini-ex isn't putting as much stress on the pads as a dozer would and has lower ground pressure.

Exposed threads on a regular bolt would get mangled within minutes of first use and would make them very difficult to remove, let alone reuse. Turning studs on a lathe would be very time consuming.
 

Welder Dave

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2014
Messages
15,007
Location
Canada
Making your lugs is time consuming too. Could use studs or cut the heads off of bolts and have a nut on both sides of the pad. Just thinking if someone wanted something simple and didn't have a welder. Could taper the pins easy enough with a grinder if desired.
 
Top