oceandredge
Member
Hello,
My bearings went bad on my 8x6 berkeley and eventually the pump wore through the brass plate on the outer housing of the pump 8" discharge and ate through the impeller. It was a slow death and I knew it was coming. The only thing keeping the impeller centered was the flax packing which needed to be replaced weekley.
I found a used Berkeley 8x6 pump with a 13.5" impeller which has been turned down to 12.5 inches. I'm running a 137hp Perkins diesel sae #3 bell. I purchased the pump used after my original 8x6 had the catastrophic failure.
I don't have $9600 for a new pump, but this low hours used Berkeley I purchased for $2,000. The impeller was rusted on the inside to the half inch sleeve that extends off the engine side of the pump. I used a 12" metal Sawzall blade and cut the 1/2" flange leaving it rusted to the backside of the impeller. The impeller spins freely now and the bearings were well greased when I took the shaft side cover off.
My issue now is... Besides the impeller being rusted to the pump (now fixed), I also have the splined shaft sheared off 2" of the 4" of teeth that engage with the flywheel.
I know the proper thing to do is to get a new splined shaft $1k, and new bearings but are their any work arounds utilizing the 2" of splined shaft that remain undamaged? The brass wear plate has zero wear and I believe the pump has only 100 hours on it. The area it was stored was flooded, hence the rust inside the pump.
I was thinking I could fabricate a 1.75" spacer to put behind the flywheel to push the female splines out further to engage with the remaining male splines on the pump? I understand this would need precision and to be balanced/centered.
I was also thinking maybe I could throughbolt a female splined extension onto the flywheel to engage the remaining good portion of the pump shaft? Originally I thought about welding 2 more inches of spline onto the flywheel, but it's got 2 inches of vulcanized rubber that would not do great with that much heat.
Does Hayes sell a flywheel that would extend out further to solve my issue with a simple bolt up solution?
I would rather spend $1k on a Hayes solution then trying to get the impeller off the shaft and buy a new shaft and bearing set.
Thanks a lot
Oceandredger from Nome AK.
My bearings went bad on my 8x6 berkeley and eventually the pump wore through the brass plate on the outer housing of the pump 8" discharge and ate through the impeller. It was a slow death and I knew it was coming. The only thing keeping the impeller centered was the flax packing which needed to be replaced weekley.
I found a used Berkeley 8x6 pump with a 13.5" impeller which has been turned down to 12.5 inches. I'm running a 137hp Perkins diesel sae #3 bell. I purchased the pump used after my original 8x6 had the catastrophic failure.
I don't have $9600 for a new pump, but this low hours used Berkeley I purchased for $2,000. The impeller was rusted on the inside to the half inch sleeve that extends off the engine side of the pump. I used a 12" metal Sawzall blade and cut the 1/2" flange leaving it rusted to the backside of the impeller. The impeller spins freely now and the bearings were well greased when I took the shaft side cover off.
My issue now is... Besides the impeller being rusted to the pump (now fixed), I also have the splined shaft sheared off 2" of the 4" of teeth that engage with the flywheel.
I know the proper thing to do is to get a new splined shaft $1k, and new bearings but are their any work arounds utilizing the 2" of splined shaft that remain undamaged? The brass wear plate has zero wear and I believe the pump has only 100 hours on it. The area it was stored was flooded, hence the rust inside the pump.
I was thinking I could fabricate a 1.75" spacer to put behind the flywheel to push the female splines out further to engage with the remaining male splines on the pump? I understand this would need precision and to be balanced/centered.
I was also thinking maybe I could throughbolt a female splined extension onto the flywheel to engage the remaining good portion of the pump shaft? Originally I thought about welding 2 more inches of spline onto the flywheel, but it's got 2 inches of vulcanized rubber that would not do great with that much heat.
Does Hayes sell a flywheel that would extend out further to solve my issue with a simple bolt up solution?
I would rather spend $1k on a Hayes solution then trying to get the impeller off the shaft and buy a new shaft and bearing set.
Thanks a lot
Oceandredger from Nome AK.
